l75eya

Wonder what ever came of this. I saw a picture earlier where the cluster was being tested, in one photo it did not display the "P R N D" for an auto trans and in the next it did. I'm wondering what needs to be done to toggle that display on and off as I will be swapping a 5 speed dual range into my auto gl-10 and it'd be great to turn that display off. Even cooler if anybody can point out how I'll hook up the 4wd and lo indicators as well!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/158477-ea82-to-ej22-in-progress/?view=getnewpost

From everything I've heard I think that car is worth about $1,000 to $1,500 depending on rust. That's my .02

Low side should be around 30-40 psi. High should be around 2-300. No more than 350 except for maybe a short peak as it cycles.

for tires go to tirerack.com

I fixed the air suspension in my gl10. I was lucky though. It just needed the front two air lines reconnected.

Just walk away for a few days. Things work out. You'll get it. Reason I mentioned the i6 in the truck because changing the plugs on that motor is an absolute NIGHTMARE lol. I love spreading good news.

You can put regular gas shocks/struts in it. You should buy it. All you will have to do is replace those shocks, give it a tune up, clean it and drive it. The hardest thing to find (besides the air shocks) is the special power steering fluid they use. If you buy it and wind up not really being able to afford it you will have no problem selling it. Buy it.

Try just setting the weight of the down on it? Your not supposed to tighten the pinch bolt till it's back on the ground anyway. That's like the last step.

Just to chime in, these manual adjust setups were used all the way into the end of production in 94. They can be found on all factory 2wd vehicles.

So to sum it up, could be a stripped out hub in the front. Put it in 4wd if it's 4wd and it will move. Could be stuck between 4wd gears. Major sure the shifter is properly engaged in either fwd, 4wd, or 4lo. Could be the clutch. Could also just be your shifter linkage came loose.

Clearcoat.

Testing with a multimeter doesn't do much. It needs to be load tested. All the lamps illuminating is pretty much all the testing you need though, it's time for a replacement.

Mine

Just a random question because I saw it in your posts, screen-name, and the thread title; You know the car is called a Loyale right, not Loyal? Don't get me wrong, when I first heard it I was like wtf is a Loyale, but yeah. L-o-y-a-l-E.

lol, scott nailed it.

Success! On the Tin Can I replaced the front pass axle with one that clicks right out of the box, I put new pads up front and new shoes and hardware in the back. Brakes felt great for two days, but then the front pass. wheel decided to partially lock up. I'm suspecting the caliper. And one of the rear shoes is jumping around for some reason when hitting the brakes while reversing, and then going forward. On the Blubaru, I have a bunch of crap sitting in boxes that I'm going to install after I get a few more boxes of crap. so far I've got new rotors for all four corners, new pads for all four corners, inner and outer wheel seals for each corner, a box of new concave washers for the axle stubs, set of NGK plugs and wires (I've installed those already). I'm waiting on a new cap and rotor and I want to get new front axles and calipers before I begin installing anything.

In my 86 GL-10, EA82T, I've loosened the two hold down bolts but my distributor will not rotate for me to adjust the timing. Is there something different between the ea82 and ea82t? All my ea82s had the same two bolts that, once loosened, allowed me to adjust timing. This thing won't budge, I've tried a good bit of moderate leverage on it so far, it seems stuck fast. Don't want to tap it with anything. Is it just stuck from never being moved, or am I missing something?

Get a better brand cap. Seal it somehow. Nipper, other 80 percent of the tire is round had me lmao.

I've heard they are not to be trusted much. That being said, mine seems to be on point with where it will get to when the fan kicks on, which is the middle of the gauge. The fan always kicks off after about five minutes of sitting at the 3rd segment. So it is at least consistent, on my car anyway.

Nice. Needs grommets though. Don't want those wires to chafe, short, smoulder, and set your 80k mile Loyale on fire!

Yeah, to basically sum it all up, an 87 Subaru GL and an 87 Subaru GL hatch are two COMPLETELY different vehicles. It's confusing, I know. You more than likely ordered parts for the Subaru GL. everybody is saying go for 84 parts because the completely different but similarly named Subaru GL I mentioned above didn't exist in that form until 85 so there's less chance for error.

I sent you a private message, sir.

So nil on the xt6 radiator, and the full metal double row from performance radiator is out of stock, as noted above. Damn. They are right nearby me in Harrisburg, I'll have to give them a call and see if there's anything they can do. In the meantime I'll keep hunting. I hope my original one holds up until I find one!

Everybody, thanks! That's exactly what I was hoping to see. I'll check out the xt6 radiator swap Davet and Emily, thanks for the scoop on performance radiator. Admire the work you guys do at CCR also btw!