l75eya

Taking Ben to Burning man this year (5,460 miles round trip direct there and back). Took my 87 GL last year, this time it's Ben's turn. Ben has always been very well maintained, engine-wise. Regular oil changes + tune-ups using all quality parts/fluids (NGK plugs wires, etc, mobil 1 oil + filters) I also just went through his front end, new inner and outer tie rods (Never knew they were so easy to do...) ball joints, and struts. Regular timing belt maint. (50k intervals. He's only had one replacement. His next will be after this trip. Bringing a set with me just in case.) He has, however, never had any attention paid to his axles. He is FWD only and is about to hit 87k. As far as I know, the axles are original and are starting to show their age. Driver's side boot is split Pass. side boot is split Driver's side clicks on turns. There's also a regular interval slight tap noise coming from the driver's front that kinda sounds what it would be like if you had a rock stuck in the tread of your tire... The noise it makes as it slaps the pavement? That's the noise I hear faintly coming from that area. Dunno if that's the CV, or brakes, though it doesn't change at all while braking. *Anyway* I have been doing some searching for awhile now and the two most relevant things I encountered are Jeszek's write-up for rebooting and extending CV life ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118248 ) Awesome write-up And that also led me to Ilexoak's guide on subaruXT.com about swapping the outers to opposite axle's that can be found here: http://www.scifaith.com/clickers/ And that's what my post concerns; It all makes sense in the way he describes how it works, and he had reports of his own axle's being fine up to 2 months after (no updates since. Btw I love parenthesis.) I'm wondering if anybody else has any experience doing this type of thing personally. I was originally trying to find some threads about rebuilding the original subaru axles that are on the car, but I couldn't come up with much, then I saw that and think that might just be the ticket. Money is pretty strapped because of the whole trip out to NV in itself and I'm trying to do something that will be pretty much full-proof yet at the same time cheap. This sounds like it could be what I do as all I would need to do is order some OEM boots, find the grease JesZek mentions, or an equivilant, and do the job. Thoughts, opinions, experiences, advice for pulling the axles off? Never done that before. This car is my learning car and in the 2 years we've had it, I've done quite a bit of work to it, all of it helped along by THIS PLACE right here Going to get these long drive punches I saw mentioned in another post on here from harbor freight (On sale now!) http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-long-drive-pin-punch-set-93111.html word.

That's what...- nevermind =P Grease should be fine, I've heard of people using all sorts of stuff, vasoline, etc. If it concerns you at all, change your oil after a couple hundred miles. Seals look good. +1 above; no sense in rushing. Do it right the first time. "The lazy man works twice" Spanish Proverb. haha

+1 Just get your hands on some type of small circular saw/angle grinder and start cutting away. It's fun. You'll like it. =P If you don't have one, use the money you'd put towards a new tranny zzz

I think that might mean you've got a California model soob if it has an EGR Temp sensor.

I don't think I'd want to have a subaru without frame-less doors. Does the BRZ have frame-less doors? I like my cars easy to break into. :-p I know rugby subie doesn't, though. Damn punks moving his car around without his consent.

I too am curious about that..

Now you know that all you'll need if it *is* stuck that bad is just a spare exhaust system to use as a cheater bar.

You just wanted a reason to start a thread in the nice shiny unmolested new forum.

Tapeworm? Good luck!

I think you're gonna have to pull off your door panel and see what's wrong with the linkage..

Similar thing happened to me just after putting in a new water-pump. Went for a quick jaunt and it rose up to about 3/4 of the gauge, then after a little more driving it dropped back down, and it's been steady since then (couple months now). I'd keep going for test jaunts around to ensure it's okay. Check your radiator every now and then (when it's cool) and make sure your reservoir is filled.

Exciting when all the pieces start to come together a bit, isn't it?

But how does it *go* ?

Keep in mind that doing this with a properly functioning cooling system will lead to an eruption of scolding hot green fluid that will probably disfigure your face. Not advisable.

I vote Wentz for question of the year!

Keep a can of starter fluid with you and the next time it happens, try to see if the starter fluid will keep it alive when it starts to die out. That will answer your question as to whether this is an electrical or fuel issue.

If you gotta drill it, keep your cool, even if you don't have experience drilling things out. If you have a vice, why don't you try locking up a bolt in a vice and drilling the center of it for practice. My suggestion (because I did it myself haha) Will continue to watch this tear-down and still vouch for it's stickification

Yeah, it's pretty dependent on a bunch of things I would assume. The hoops is by no means a turtle, I mean, it takes a *lot* of pedal enthusiasm, but if you need him to move, he moves okay. He is markedly more swift than my carb'd 5spd 4wd GL. Based on how those two cars feel respectively, I can see how a 5 speed SPFI or MPFI Front wheel drive car would be pretty peppy. And that's still with a very underpowered engine. I read about these EJ swaps and just think to myself how insane those vehicles must be

Wouldn't it be nice to have your own personal abandoned runway? At that, wouldn't it be awesome to get paid to beat the shi* out of very expensive exotic vehicles, be on television, have a blast, and get paid handsomely to do so? haha

This is an excellent photo-documentary of your tear-down. About the water pump o-ring, probably not compromised at all, but should try and track down a replacement one anyway if it's reasonably easy to. About the cam carrier case o-ring; very important. If it fails it could lead to a tick of death type scenario. This thread should definitely be in the USRM and should be sticky-ed at that. Good luck getting that bolt out. Live and learn, my friend!

wow, it's so tiny! lol

Say, what kinda engine is that? An EJ 1.8?

Monumental moment for 87 GL: And currently stands at:

No GPS.

Sad right??