Cyfun

Yah sweet upholstry T0MCAT. You do it all yourself? Today I am replacing valve cover gaskets, temp sensor, and throttle cable. Ordered throttle cable from napa last week as they lied to me about it being in stock. It finally arrived yesterday, went to install it today, mostly broke my old one tryna get it out, and the new one doesn't come close to fitting. It has a barrel end on the pedal side and no plastic thingy, so it won't stay on the pedal. On the other end, the threaded adjustment part is a size too small so it doesn't mount very well, and the entire cable is too short! I called them and they inisisted it was the correct one for that car, but since they have none in stock they have to order another. I pieced my old one back together so the damn thing is drivable, but will check with the dealer on Monday to see how much they are there. Fuxing Napa, I always have problems with them. Temp sensor wasn't too hard, just slightly awkward for my wrench. Hope it fixes my hunting idle problems. Drivers side valve cover is hemmhoraging oil all over my exhaust. Was a *************** to get the cover out cause the EJ22 seems to be mounted slightly too close on that side. Threw them in my dishwasher to get the layers of grime off.

Have you tried running jumper wires to the pump to see if the pressure improves?

Another brilliant idea: lever under the seat that moves side to side. I wonder if there's enough room to the left of the drivers seat to put another lever. Seem to remember Pontiac Fieros having their parking brake there.

Another method would be to have two levers for left and right, and pulling would work the rear brakes, pushing would work the fronts. However I think I would rather have individual control of all 4. Perhaps instead you could have more of a shift lever, where pulling straight back activates both rear brakes equally, but if you pull more to one side or the other, it pulls that brake cable more.

Shouldn't matter if it's turbo or not, as long as they all fit. But it's a good idea to stick with NGK/Bosch as far as plugs and wires go, as anything else is crap.

Maybe I'll mount them on the passenger floor, and have a friend ride along with me and be my dedicated traction control operator.

There is one that offers a lot more clamping force than stock, I think it was designed for the XT6. I think this is it. However, I found another that is much cheaper. Maybe it's an old design. Hey GD, would you happen to know the difference? Edit: Wait, no, pretty sure this is the XT6 clutch

Could be a lot of things, but fuel is a good place to start, especially since these cars are notorious for having problems with the fuel pump relay and poor wiring going to the pump. With any luck it's the relay, or a poor ground, or even a loose fuse. If you have a multimeter, might see if any juice is getting to the pump connector, and if the ground is good.

Ah, I like those ideas of just attaching smaller handles to the existing one. Would mean destroying my tiny console, though. Another option would be to steal the mechanisms off of cars that have ebrake pedals. Then I could rig up a couple pedals on the left. As far as the line-lock method, I would go the route where I would prevent pressure from reaching the wheel or wheels with good traction, so when I press the brake pedal, I'm only braking the slipping wheels. Then I could feather the brake, slow the spinning tire just enough so that I send some but not all the power to the wheels with traction.

Ya, I've been thinking about that, too. The problem is I don't know where I'd put all these brake handles. But if there were a simple electronic solution such as this, that would sure make it easier to install and use.

OMG, I just had the best idea ever! Install a line lock solenoid for each individual brake. If you're in a situation where you're articulating or simply losing traction with certain wheels, you could activate those wheels' line locks to send the power to the other wheels! Manual traction control! Isn't that basically how ABS works, anyway?

The thing to do would be to leave the existing front parking brake system intact, and set up some sort of hydraulic line lock that works backwards. Rather than you having to press the brake pedal and then activate the line lock to hold the brakes, you activate the line lock to PREVENT the front brakes from locking, so when you push your brake pedal, only the rears get pressure. This would sure make it a lot easier to give the back brakes a quick stab while rallying around.

Split boots are junk. A new boot is only about $10 and isn't horribly difficult to install. But I usually just replace the whole axle when I do, and get an axle with a lifetime warranty so that if the boot ever tears, whole new axle! See if you have any luck with silicone or other patching methods. Maybe try a bike tire patch kit and glue, cause silicone doesn't always stick well to rubber. I've heard people have had luck just with vulcanized glue. But if you're going to spend more than a few bucks trying to bandaid the problem, might as well replace the boot.

Depends on if you want to be able to crawl or not. A Legacy has quite a bit more power but lacks the low crawl gear. HOWEVER, they often have lower diff gearing, and those help push tall tires. An EA82 will be lighter, have a low-range option, and a very tight turn radius. They will have significantly less power, though, and have less room for taller tires. Plus you'll have to mod some toyota rims or restud your hubs if you want to run a rim larger than 13". Also, a good EA82 is becoming tough to find, whereas there are an increasing number of Legacies for sale. If I had to do it again, I would just get a beat up Legacy with a good EJ22, swap in an ea82 dual range trans (they are a dime a dozen), and do a lift and tires. Then you won't be fighting with an EJ22 swap, just a trans swap, and your fender wells will better accommodate tall tires. A few weeks ago on CL someone had a '96 Outback with a bad auto trans for $600, kicking myself for not jumping on it.

For every day driving, 30-35 is good for such big tires on such a light car. For offroad, I'd say start at 20, so if you get stuck you can let it down to 15 or 10.

Ya, there's no way it would move that far that fast. At least it should theoretically easy to find the short: have someone sit in the driver's seat and watch the gauge while you go around wiggling the wire. Good to know. I really should replace mine, handles like a boat since switching to 28" tires and removing the sway bar.

Agreed. A buddy of mine put HID conversion kits in his Outback and Porsche 944, and they're pretty blinding. When he gets behind me, I move my rearview mirror to try and shine them back in his face. But bear in mind that 1982gl4 and most of the folks on her are using proper HID projector kits, so they're not using the stock reflectors and should be about as glare-free as can be expected.

Ya, 4300k is pretty warm compared to the majority of HIDs on the road. I think pure white is closer to 5000k. 1982gl4: Mind taking a pic when they're warm? I'm very interested in doing the same mod to my GLW.

True. If you're going to the trouble to replace the rack, worth it to upgrade. How much did you get the WRX rack for?

Very nice! Doesn't look too difficult to carve out that hole a bit. So what kind of benefits are you expecting with the WRX rack? Quicker turn ratio?

Better yet, direct link to all their files!

Not bad, but it doesn't say how much force it can put out. I'll probably rather go with one of those solenoid kits eBay as they're specifically designed for pulling hard on release latches. Plus, the actuator is $12.50 after shipping, and the eBay kit is only $10 more and comes with wiring, a button, a fuse holder, and the cabling and crimpers and a mounting bracket.

Before you replace the pump, you should do a proper rewiring of it. Run a fused wire of about 14 gauge from the battery to the pump and hook up a relay. Odds are you're getting some good voltage drop on the stock wiring.

Bending the arm towards the glass helps a bit. But the main culprit is the spring. If you can get the spring out with some needle nose pliers, you can bend it a bit so it clamps harder. Sometimes it's a pain and i've shot many a spring across my front yard trying to get it back on the wiper arm, but it does help significantly.

You'll want to use your stock CV axles and driveshaft. If you're switching to the Legacy transmission, might need to have the driveshaft shortened slightly, but I'm not completely positive. You could also keep the stock transmission and get an adapter plate. But you'd be stuck with the weaker ea82 clutch.