TOsborn

And it's fixed, EGR was acting a bit leaky in both intake/exhaust. Runs like a top now.

^Anything is possible. I'm guessing old vacuum line is leaking somewhere.

Back together! Good news is, it runs, and doesn't leak any liquids. Bad news is, I somehow picked up an exhaust leak (probably has something to do with EGR as that's the only exhaust thing I touched), and I think I have a leak in the intake somewhere as when under boost it sounds a bit louder. My old water pump was completely not a pump anymore, so glad to have a new one installed. Glad it runs though!

Raise the rear up one notch. Doesn't it have the adjustable struts front and rear? I did that to mine and it leveled it out.

Well, intake is now fully on and hooked up! Just water pump left to do now. Heli-coil on cyl head went very well (easiest one I've ever done). Now that head has two heli coils in it, as it stripped an exhaust stud hole earlier. While torquing the intake on, I think I may have stripped the threads on one of the shorter bolts. I found a torque spec that said 35ft-lbs, so I went with that. Once the first bolt felt like it may be stripping, I backed off and instead torqued all intake bolts to 20-25ft-lbs. Should still seal fine, if not, rip it off and heli-coil some more! (might as well get some good use out of the $40 kit...) Here's the engine bay as it sat early yesterday, all cleaned up and ready to start going back together.

^going to use that as a last resort. I don't really like "not being in control" of my tightening/loosening of hardware. Though I bet it works!

It's a manual. That was the first thing I tried, ended up slowly scooting my car across the garage, even with it in 5th with ebrake on. It'll come off, just more coaxing.

Thanks, ended up sourcing a new o-ring since the old one was mangled. Also, making progress slightly, thought a few setbacks. One intake manifold bolt broke off in the head. My tried and true method of heat + a LH drill bit didn't work. So off to order a slightly bigger LH bit and try again. Worse case scenario is a heli coil. Not too bad, but kind of annoying and time consuming. Replacing water pump as well. Only issue is the crank pulley is being a bear to get off. It'll come off, just back to the garage for some more swearing and heavy metal music to help coax it off of there!

Also, what seals the metal pipe to the water pump? Currently it appears to have a large amount of sealant goo on it, which is working. But I'd rather not do that if I can avoid it.

Well, started the intake swap today. Everything went fine, except one of the intake bolts broke off in the engine block. After much coaxing it wouldn't budge, then snapped. Shouldn't be too hard to drill out with a LH bit, or heli coil worse case scenario. Start of the evening: Getting closer: Swapping parts between the two: Around midnight called it a night: While draining the coolant, I found a ton of metal shavings. Not too stoked on that, but I was planning on installing a new water pump anyways so glad I caught it now! Also found out one of the wire to what I think is a knock sensor (?) is severed in the connector. Going to need to source a new connector at the junkyard and solder it on. At the end of this I should have a car that doesn't heat up at idle on hot days, and doesn't puke coolant out of leaky freeze plugs in the intake constantly!

Personally I think easy outs are kinda weak, and never work. Get a good LH drill bit in a little bit smaller size than the bolt you are trying to remove. Chuck it up in a cordless drill and drill into the broken off bolt, applying as much pressure as possible to the drill. Has never failed to work for me, though it may drill through most of it then back the rest of the bolt out. Make sure the drill bit is small enough that it won't damage the threads.

Does the bolt pattern on the whiteline camber strut tops match the gl pattern? Neat idea.

Looks like a fun event, I'll try and make it with the three door, or the QS if it's roadworthy by then.

So I just compared intakes, and it looks like the hard line coming from under the thermostat is the turbo coolant line, correct? If so, I'm stoked it's a turbo intake and the swap should go smoothly!

Thanks, I'll look into that.

And here's the next improvement, picked this up for free. EA82 multi port injection intake, seems to have never been run. I've just ordered up new gaskets to reseal it, OEM thermostat, new water pump, and then will be swapping it for my nasty filthy dirty (and leaky) intake that's on the car. While I'm in there planning on doing water pump and cleaning the living crap out of the engine. The freeze plugs on the back of my intake have been weeping coolant since I bought the car, so this will be a huge improvement. Does anyone know if there are any specifics to the turbo intake that I should watch out for? I've compared the two (one on car to this one) and they seem identical. Thanks!

Another great answer, I use this all the time when my "greener" friends ask why I drive old cars that pollute more. Answer is, not wasting resources on buying a new one. I don't have any hard data on this, but I'd like to do an emissions study of a new cars production vs it's lower emissions, and see how many years they take to "balance." As general reasoning seems that continuing to repair and drive an older vehicle would be better in the long run.

I think the answer is quite simple really: Because it takes time, effort, and pride, to build up an old car to perform well. While most anyone can purchase a new (or newer) vehicle and have it go fast right out of the box. There are benefits to both options, but personally I'd go (and do, as all three of my cars are between the years of 1965 and 1986) with the older vehicle you built up to be fast. Though sometimes I'm tempted to sell the GL Turbo and buy a new Legacy. Man it'd be nice to just drive and not have to tinker all the time...

I've always like white alloys for some reason, and I think they'd look pretty killer on this car. Bronze would be pretty neat, but I want these to be bright!

Picked up a less ripped rear seat back from a member, doesn't match the interior but way better than the original exploded one. Also, picked up 5 Peugeot 505 wheels today from another member, plan is to powdercoat them white. This photo is after an hour of wet sanding a bit of curb rash off of them.

Wow, thanks for the inspiration!

Man, those look great in white. Good luck!

I had a good relay in mine, but the connector had crumbled over the years causing blower motor failure. A quick trip to the junkyard and some soldering fixed it. A quick relay test is swapping the blower relay for a headlight relay (or any of the other three that you know works). Should help narrow the issue a bit.

I drove from Tacoma WA to LA and back via the PCH last November in an '86 GL three door. I had just bought it a few months before, and before the trip had done simple tune up/maintenance. The EA82T made if fine! Only problem was alternator went out, so did a parking lot swap at a NAPA. Also in LA wired my cooling fan to a toggle switch as I found out my efan temp switch wasn't working (make sure to pack wire and various terminals!) As far as tools/parts, I just packed tools. I figured if anything pooped out I would just bum a ride to a parts store, or worst case use my towing insurance for once (very cheap, worth it in a pinch). Also, packed 3qts oil and 2gall coolant. The three door was a great car for the trip! It was sporty enough for fun corner carving on the PCH, and used the back to sleep in the whole way down. Can't wait to get back on the road again soon for some camping.

I really don't like that body style, but I have to say your car may have swayed me! Looks great!