hooziewhatsit

hehe, I did the same thing when I first checked the codes on my car. 'why the heck isn't the CEL blinking :cool: ' like holmes says, once you know where the light is, you should be able to read it without removing anything.

you guys did put the drivers side belt on first with the cam up, right? Just because the cams are 180* out doesn't mean the disty is firing on the right turn... only thing I can think of (the disty should be pointing to the #1 plug when the passenger cam is pointing North-West)

under the hood near the wiper motor should be a pair of single-pole green connectors. Connect them and turn the key to on (don't try to start it). You should hear the fuel pump cycle on-off every second or so; you should also hear a solenoid or two under the hood tick in the same pattern. If the fuel pump doesn't come on at all, either the pump is dead, or there's something wrong with the controller. If it does come on, you probably just have old gas (doesn't take too long for it to go bad) and it will need to be replaced (along with the fuel filter probably).

yea, I believe AZ is right; to test the motor, just jump 12v to it. To make it change directions, just switch the polarity of the wires going to it. as to the underlying issue with the switch... I'm not sure there...

yep, drivers side cam straight up, put belt on. crank engine over once passenger side cam straight up, put on belt. cams are now 180* from each other. To put the disty in: rotate engine so passenger side cam dot is pointing north-west (10:30 o'clock). Put disty in pointing to #1 plug. That should get it close enough to be able to time it. However, since it was already running, it *should* be in the right spot already.

try searching at www.legacygt.com I know they have a similar problem listed over there.

so you just don't have enough room to get the cup off the tranny stub? unbolt the lower control arm and the sway bar; that will you give you enough room to get the cup off the stub, then you can pull/push the axle out of the knuckle.

I believe it's the 'all ok' code, as well as the car type identifier.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31328&highlight=hood+release+cable the biggest problem is that you can't easily get the grill off without breaking something... good luck

if it's for the knock controller, then why would an '87 SPFI wagon have it? box about an inch tall, 4" W, 2-3" deep?

one thing to check.. pop the hood and look for some green single-pole connectors near the wiper motor in the driver side rear of the engine compartment. If they are connected, dis-connect them. Same with a similar pair of white (or black) connectors in the same area. The green connectors should only be used when checking the timing, or when forcing the car to check all it's sensors. In that case you connect them, go for a drive, and if the CEL blinks you have no problems (sound familiar? ). The white/black connectors are used to check stored codes, if there are any. During normal operation neither of these sets of connectors should be connected.

it's probably one of the first two options you listed. for you plugs, they should go 1, 3, 2, 4, going counter-clockwise. #1 plug is nearest the brake MC. front 2 1 4 3 rear For vacuum hoses, just look around and see if anything near where you worked looks loose or broken.

I think the only place you could tell is by looking at the engine. Pop the hood; if you see a lima bean shaped metal air filter housing on top of the engine, it's carburated. If you see a tube going from the passenger side to the top of the engine, it's fuel injected. (it usually says Subaru FI or such on the tube) why do you think it needs a new fuel pump?

did it overheat according to the gauge, or bubbles coming out of the overflow tank? I'd highly recommend finding a cheap temperature gun and verifying that the dash gauge is correct/wrong. My 88 GL reads a bit high, the 91 loyale barely registers, and the 85 turbo is just fine when it's in the red. bottom line - these gauges aren't very accurate. a new/tested rad cap wouldn't be a bad idea either. (I think www.tempgun.com has some for cheap?)

91 loyale, 5spd s/r 4WD, gets about 32ish highway. Doesn't see much city so I can't comment on it. Not sure what tires this car has (probably 175/70 r13s) 88 GL 5spd d/r 4WD, gets about 30 highway, probably 25ish city. Has 185/70 R13s

pull your plugs and see what they look like. If they're white, you're either running uber-lean, or you don't have spark in the cylinder. You could also *carefully* pull each plug wire off the disty one at a time and see if changes the idle at all. If it doesn't, that cylinder isn't firing, and will make it a slug. A certain someone I know, who shall go un-named, didn't get two injector plugs back on properly after doing some work... car ran just like you described, until they were plugged back in oh yea, plugs should be 1, 3, 2, 4 front 2 1 4 3 rear *when I say carefully, you don't want to shock the crap out of yourself

$350? ouch... it sounds like they're trying to pull the outer race out of the car? It will only out by pounding it 'into' the car, if you know what I mean. what I ended up doing... find a MFH (medium * hammer) and a socket that will only impact the outer race, and pound it to the inside of the car. It will come out eventually. The machine shop should have a puller/pusher? that should be able to do this also. To get the new race in, find a small piece of metal (or something similar) that will allow you to pound the race in evenly without 'walking' it in in a circle. Again, the machine shop should have a puller/pusher to do this also. good luck

Do your heater/defrost vents work like they should? If not, you definitely have a vacuum leak under the hood. There should be a line going from the intake manifold to the vacuum canister on the passenger side rear of the engine bay. Should be two vacuum lines from there, one going to the heater control, and the other to two solenoids by the driver side strut tower. Most likely something got bumped/disconnected at some point. there used to be a good writeup in the USRM about troubleshooting this system...

I used to coast occasionally, until I found out that if you coast in gear, with your foot off the throttle (throttle plate closed) the ECU will actually stop or inject less gas than if you were idling in neutral.

what kind of car do you have? Anyone know if this would work on an EA82T?

I also had to repair a couple lines on my loyale. Easiest way to do it... connect multimeter ground to the ground side of the grid (doesn't really matter though) put a piece of aluminum foil on the other multimeter lead. Run the aluminum down each known bad trace, watching the voltage. Soon as it 'jumps' you've found the break. 'jumps' - as you run down the bad trace, it will stay at one voltage. After you cross the break, it will jump to a different voltage level. If you run down a good trace, the voltage should linearly increase/decrease depending on which way you're going.

I believe a friends car has a rusty jones sticker on it in decent shape (unlike the car). I can probably get a picture of it.

To expand on kbd's post, about all you can do is make sure you have a good power and ground line to the grid. Do this by checking the voltages while the defroster is on/off. If the positive side is dropping below the battery voltage, or the ground side is going positive a bit, there are some bad connections somewhere that need to be cleaned/bypassed. Same for the ground side. Since the resistance on the grid is constant, the only way to make it 'work better' it is to get more voltage across it, either by cleaning connections or running bigger wires from the battery. I checked the current draw on one of my EA82s once, and it was around 5 Amps (so be careful while you're working on it). Out of curiosity, how many lines/how big is the window on the escort?

I just had to do this in my car & my brother in laws car as well. I had the slightest amount of rocking on the hub. In my bro in laws car, going around a sharp right hand corner the bearing would go silent. Straighten out again and it was back to grinding. i think I got the new bearing + seals for a hair under $100. Figure a shop will charge about 2 hours worth, so add about another $140ish (here at least). My car went fine. on my brother in laws though... the ring nut behind the bearing was stuck. Had to take it to a shop and get them to break it loose with an impact wrench. Took it back home and finished it up on my time without any other problems. Took me around 3 hours the first time, and quicker the second time. Just depends on if you have the time/place/know how to do it.

Also, the car doesn't have to be in 4WD when you start it up. As soon as you move the lever it goes into 4WD; it doesn't take 10 feet or whatever that some 4WD rigs take to lock the hubs. As to why being in 4WD would cause startup issues... not sure. Have you made sure all your grounds are good & clean?