erik litchy

round tube sounds cool id like to see a sketch or something of a prototype. you can see i like the tube http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e77/erty0/mike%20crap/IMG_1985.jpg chrome moly seems ideal rather than mild, the weight savings alone is worth it.

check the timing maybe it can be advanced a tad to bring the mileage back?

you want an antenna stop at a truck stop. man i was almost on your route too

i looked and cant imagine how its long enough to fit over any heater hose. you guys must be puling my leg theres not enough slack to do that.

i will remove it tomrrow, its cold and rainy right now and im saddened by even looking at my car at the moment. pressure plate was in the car when i bought it, about 3x the pedal pressure of say a s2000, or twice that of a 2009 wrx.

of course it was new. im running a strong pressure plate im sure thats no help.

this sucks it was only about 6 months old this time. luckily i was a block from home. is there a better one out there? xt6 clutch cable stronger or something?

i suppose if you are creative you can get some adjustment out of the stock by adding spacers, but its not nearly as effective.

trying to find someone to go with, as the locals do not go frequently enough for me.

what is everyones thoughts on this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SCAT-Subaru-WRX-H-Beam-Rods_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a2Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem280339399772QQitemZ280339399772QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories considering that my rods need at least new wrist pin bearings and 2 have surface rust, i wonder how much money it would take to bring them up to shape.

if anyone has a 2wd i have a spare disk.

thats a strange thought, it must have been quite a while ago becasue i saw nothing that looked disturbed under all that oxidation. are the rods from a turbo or sti engine an upgrade?

sorry guys for the slow update, i was kinda hoping someone would fill me in on the oil pan. the rod bearings were kinda worn, but for any engine that has coolant in the oil they are automaticly considered bad. coolant weakens bearings. i had a LOT of trouble splitting the block, the dowel pin was really seized in there :mad: one wrist pin was seized in so i left it in place and removed the whole assembly. you can tell there was coolant in the oil, so much moisture.

id worry about being able to steer in snow with a front locker. i vote ARB in front and a spool in back. if you dont like spools, a normal detroit.

destroy seals? i think heat is the main cause of seal failures. its not hard to have a little plasticizer added to a batch to help the seals. if its shifting harsh, the viscosity is too thick, and im sure that only the ford type F is that thick. i may not be an expert but im pretty sure that al OEM use a non syntheric base and i think thats the main weakness.

ive always been skeptical that these ATF are really needed over a aftermarket synthetic one like Mobil or amsoil. i would prefer that extra edge in heat resistance.

ok good the one i took off was metal.

but bearings will also run hot if theres too much grease...

i agree i hate them. theres one i think i saw, ADC?

what are some ideas to do when i rebuild this 91 2.2? im going with head studs becasue i dont particulary care for the headbolt holes in aluminum. i just feel more secure tightening up not worring about stripping or galling threads. also im going with Deves rings, they worked GREAT on my ea82. also some delta cams. what RPM are the stock valve springs good for? i keep seeing people mention separator plate, i have no clue what the problem is here. also i see people mention updating the oil pan, again i have no idea what the gains are. how much can be taken off the head surface? i had about .050 my EA82 heads and those were fine. i saw Cosworth say that subaru bores distort a bunch when the heads are tightened up so honing is needed to be done with a torque plate. well im positive my machine shop does not have one for a subaru.

i just want to run an orange license plate.

i would use http://www.upshizzle.com/index.php

ive noiced that with computer controlled transmissions (on any car) they quickly adapt to driving style. if you drive like an old lady then they act like you describe. you can fix this, temporarily, by driving with the gas either completly on or off, no inbetween for a short stretch. it doesnt take much for the computer to think theres a new driver and act diffrent.

ring/pinion noise is drastically diffrent on accel or on engine overrun. on coast even the worst rear end diff will be quieter. so you have an esay way of telling right there. better yet have someone ride in back and help pinpoint source

they always came on fords as an option in the 80's another brilliant ford idea