el_freddo

Good to hear you’ve found some info on what’s causing the issue with some thorough checking. I’m still one for skipping the parts yards for fuel pumps and buy new aftermarket. Cheers Bennie

There’s lots of compatibility between the two boxes so long as you follow the two key rules: 1) both boxes are dual range 2) the EJ box is a phase 1 box* With 2) and the * bit: The EA82 low range can be adapted to the phase two EJ box if the phase two box is dual range too. The internals of the EA and phase 1 WJ box aren’t a direct swap in to the phase two cases. They will physically fit but reverse will be weakened/may not live beyond the first use as the shaft for the reverse slide gear is ~2mm further out compared to the phase 1 boxes. To get back to the original question: you could mate the EA82 internals and rear case with the phase 1 EJ front cases. Input shaft bearing mods will be required to fit the EJ input bearing housing. You’ll need a custom gearbox mount, prop shaft and maybe linkages. Or you could run an adaptor plate between the EJ engine and EA82 gearbox like they do in EJ conversions to EA series models. You’ll still need the other mods regardless and you’ll need to mod the EA82 flywheel to mate to the EJ crank. The EA82 clutch may need to be beefed up depending on your needs. You can add the bracket for the EJ pitch stopper rod to the EA gearbox too. This option would be easiest for gearbox replacements if it’s ever needed. Cheers Bennie

Yep. Pretty good. It’s only function is to properly locate the TOB to the fork and vice versa, it doesn’t need to be overkill. So why change something that’s working well? Cheers Bennie

Must be a good shelf!! Cheers Bennie

Did you inspect the clutch fork for cracks or deformities? Was the clutch an aftermarket kit that included the throw out bearing? I’ve found aftermarket throw out bearings are undersized - only by several mm but every bit counts! And are you sure it was the correct clutch kit? Cheers Bennie

You’ll need an oil resistant hose to replace it with. I’ve got no idea where to get that stuff over your way. Cheers Bennie

Is that a rhetorical question? Or are you talking to yourself? I’d say because it’s something interesting and rare..? Cheers Bennie

From memory 185/75r13 is the factory tyre size. It should be in your owners manual if you’ve still got it! Cheers Bennie

Read your codes from the ECU. Decipher them from the list. Go from there. Sounds to me more like one of the following: - bad or dirty AFM - dead O2 sensor - bad/dead coolant temp sensor Don’t go throwing money at it until you know what the codes are Cheers Bennie

Definitely EA81. The giveaway is the sideways mounted thermostat that faces to the rear of the vehicle. The EA82 unit has the thermostat housing on the front of the intake manifold and it sits horizontally. Hope this helps! Cheers Bennie

G’day Alan, Anything is possible so you probably could adapt the Weber to the carter carb intake manifold. I’m not overly familiar with this intake or carb but I think it’s a single barrel job and the intake has a smaller hole for the carb as a result. Someone will know more than me on this. As for the resto, this to me is an easy one to sort out over all of the vehicle is in as good condition as you’ve described. Even if the carb isn’t factory, it allows the rest of the car to do original/factory thing - and the carb allows the car to be used/enjoyed for what it is. The old carb and intake can be boxed up for someone who wants to be full original if they ever feel the need. Other option is a bigger project - EJ conversion for a sleeper - classic looks with a stealthy and more modern level of performance and reliability Cheers Bennie

The kit I’ve seen is advertised for $450. Quite reasonable I think considering they were being snapped up for $600 at one point! brat/brumby vs population ratio would be interesting. Cheers Bennie

They’re a cool item Steptoe, but I can’t see their worth other than them being a rare item to own and put on a shelf. Fog lights aren’t really necessary in Oz generally. The only time I’ve ever found them useful was when I was living in the Australian alpine areas - even then all I did was cover my lights with yellow cellophane. Worked a treat! All the best to your mate and the sale of his items. I’ve seen a power steering setup for the MYs sit on Gumtree for a number of weeks now - it’s very well priced too, I think it’s a sign of things slowing down in terms of what ppl are putting into their vehicles - that or PS systems don’t rate highly (but they transform these vehicles!). It would be interesting to find out how many Brats were delivered to the US and how many to Australia in total. Cheers Bennie

Keep it! You won’t find another one in that sort of condition! Any manifold off another EA81 will fit and work the same. The EA82 manifolds will fit and work but may need some grinding under the centre of the manifold for it to bold down properly and the thermostat is on the front of the manifold. Small work around to plumb back into the factory rad hose, or just run the EA82 factory upper hose. What you’re looking at isn’t a difficult job as far as conversions go. Others will tell you to throw a Weber on it while you’re at it. Then enjoy! Cheers Bennie

Yeah sorry, that was me making a poor joke - that’s me flogging the dead horse, not you or your Justy! Steptoe could be on to something there, it could even be sticky valves if it’s sat for a decent amount of time. How’s the search for the manuals you need going? Cheers Bennie

I need one now! I love the L series coupe and it’s worse because we don’t get them here so getting me one is near impossible! Cheers Bennie

You sure you don’t have high compression on cylinder #2? There's a website that has a whole bunch of Subaru manuals to download, I’m 99% sure there’s a Justy manual on there. It should have all the info you need There’s this page - Wade past the ads to the manuals you want: https://www.onlymanuals.com/subaru/justy?category=cars This site also has some Justy manuals available: https://workshop-manuals.com/subaru/ Hope those help. Cheers Bennie

Pics are good on a phone! I’m glad to hear your RX is still kicking around. Seems to have the same sort of hiatus as my offroad L wagon, but she’s outside rather than under cover 😢 Also needs some work. Keen for some pics of the car itself! And the blue tape on the combustion chamber - I’m guessing it’s for porting purposes or am I missing something? How long did you spend on porting as it looks really good, quite a bit of polishing there I’d imagine! I hope that paint bakes on after the first decent engine run! Cheers Bennie

Great update Todd and as always a good spread of pics too. The falls shown right up the top of this post was really interesting the way the water cut across the rock like that! The centre diff noise - sure it’s not a bearing in the gearbox? It’s good to hear the centre diff is wearing ok, nothing wearing faster than expected? Cheers Bennie

I believe it’s a little more involved than just soaking them, you’ll need to bleed the air out of them - basically pump the HLA in a bath of oil (the little hole on the side needs to be covered) to swap the air that’s in there now for oil. They should go solid once they’re full of oil. Then install. Cheers Bennie

You don’t. You go and get either a new OEM unit and fit it or you buy a quality aftermarket unit. There’s no guarantee how a used pump was looked after. These pumps use the fuel for cooling - run out of fuel often is a pump killer, even once can be enough (probably more so for external EFI pumps) to do permanent damage if not toast the pump. If you were in a bind second hand could b a get out of jail card, but only if it meant you get to leave with a working pump! And I’d pull it from a vehicle with the most amount of dirt etc around the fuel pump plate. My 5c on the subject of used fuel pumps. Cheers Bennie

With the age of the vehicle and/or if it’s sat around for a long time with old fuel in it the fuel pump will be cactus. It might move fuel, but it won’t pressurise it enough for the injectors to properly squirt it into the intake as a fine mist. If you just want to determine if you have voltage at the pump you could hook up a light to come on that you can watch when you turn the key. With the hatch and all the carpet removed you will probably hear the pump make noise if it’s working. It should be a constant noise, not a wavering one. How many miles on your Legacy, and does it look like someone pulled the fuel pump out previously? Be careful with any plastic tabs - electrical or fuel. I’ve read about ppl snapping a plastic fuel line into the pump but I’m not 100% sure which one this is or if it’s an internal item. Cheers Bennie

Good find @heartless! I never knew that. So you’ve got a real odd ball variant there @carfreak85… I thought the L series was the black sheep of the family but this model is out there! So this EJ253 - does it have the variable valve timing and the idle butterfly setup just above the inlet ports on the head? I’ve heard these can give trouble if you have them. Can you do a smoke test for vacuum leaks? Cheers Bennie

Is this a conversion or an EJ251? I didn’t think the EJ253 came in until c2004/5 Actually thinking about it this is DOHC if it’s got a MAF, meaning it’s an EJ25D. My initial thoughts (being for an EJ253 with the variable valve timing) was those little idle butterfly things being the issue if the NA models had them fitted. If it is an EJ251 I’d be looking into its crappy IACV that’s a plunger plug design. It could be gummy or the rubber on the plunger cracked/worn, effecting the air fuel ratio enough to upset the ignition in the cylinder momentarily as the ECU sorts out the mixture from idle to load throttle. The IACV could also be having issues if it’s the EJ25D, but from memory this IACV design is the same or ver similar to the phase EJ22 rotating valve design. Either of these IACVs not operating properly may not throw a CEL or store a code. I know this post is a bit all over the shop, I’m trying to cover all bases to save time at your end as I’m sure you don’t have an EJ253 unless it’s a conversion. Cheers Bennie

If you don’t think it’s a wheel bearing I’d be dropping the rear diff oil and inspecting its condition and how much comes out - and check to see if there are any obvious leaks occurring. Fresh oil in there will only be a good thing if the seals are still holding up well. The EJ wheel bearings are quite robust and will go the distance and then some to get you out of trouble. But keep running on it could lead to other issues. I recently had to replace the front hub that the wheel bolts to and the bearing mounts to on its internal surface. The hub snout had worn its chrome like finish off from the bearing inner wiggling away as the tyre rotated. This didn’t give a good tight fit with any of the old bearings so I wasn’t going to run the new bearings on it either. The other thing they can do is pack it in completely at the most inconvenient time for you. Get on to it while it suits you Cheers Bennie