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el_freddo

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Everything posted by el_freddo

  1. The purge valve was a common issue in the early turbos - a mate of mine recommended that I move the purge control valve from under the intake manifold to somewhere easily accessible for replacement. So I’d agree that this could be the issue on both vehicles mentioned in this thread. Good thought @1 Lucky Texan! Cheers Bennie
  2. I always have to use a centre pull device to get my steering wheel off. You’ll find a threaded hole one either side of the steering shaft in parallel. I used these and it worked well. I remember one time, probably the first time, putting loaded of tension on the centre pull and leaving it overnight. It popped off overnight. Hope that helps. Cheers Bennie
  3. 2005… about the time GM got their grip on the company. Coincidence? I dunno about this huge push for EVs - over here certainly none of our electricity network grid is even close to ready for mass uptake of that type of transport! Time will tell what happens, it’s a balls up atm and with the cost of living going through the roof the chance of ppl moving over to EVs is slim. I know I’m out of the running for one, not that it would meet my needs other than commuting to work and back again. And don’t believe the “zero emissions” marketing or EVs! Out of sight, out of mind. Coal fired power stations will be what’s powering the EV movement while solar, wind and tidal infrastructure play catch up. Interesting times ahead. This work should have started 20 years ago! My 5c for off topic chat! Cheers Bennie
  4. You’re not understanding what steptoe is saying. Move the cams closer to the crank like you did will change their timing as the cams are clocked more one way or the other, unless you moved them in so far that aligning to the next tooth kept the cams at 12 and 6 o’clock when the crank was on its mark. Cheers Bennie
  5. Get in behind the panel and Unclip the plastic clips from inside the car. You will need to remove internal panels for this to happen. Fit clips to the trim piece then push them into the holes in the body work. Cheers Bennie
  6. Rough call mate. You’d be better off posting his in the present 90’s onwards EJ forum My biggest question would be who rebuilt the engine and did they know what they were doing? For your first car I’d be going for something that’s stock, reliable and easy to maintain. With this you’re buying a whole lot of aftermarket gear that you and your son most likely know nothing about, nor would you know what’s stock and what’s not - that doesn’t make it easy to follow up replacement parts. Lastly, yes it looks awesome, but you could be buying someone else’s problems which is often the case with highly modified and raced vehicles unless you know the vehicle from being at races/in the owners circle of friends. Cheers Bennie
  7. Before it heads to the junkyard drop an EJ22 into it. No joke you’ll probably get better fuel economy than what you’re getting now and it will “just run better all round”. Plus the maintenance side of things drops off a cliff with an EJ compared to an EA82! Cheers Bennie
  8. Sticky IACV comes to mind but the occurrence when filling with fuel does not as this issue doesn’t discriminate with fuel levels… Haven’t changed or played any plumbing under the bonnet recently? I’m wondering if it could be some fuel being pushed through the vac lines or an emissions venting system that’s potentially flooding the engine. Mind you I can fill all of our Subarus to the brim and none have an issue with starting afterwards. It’ll be interesting to know what the issue is once it’s sorted! Cheers Bennie
  9. It could be a broken speedo cable. Worst case it’s the plastic gear in the gearbox stripping out. If the speedo cable isn’t it, the easiest fix is to use a GPS for speed readings. Cheers Bennie
  10. Dunno about the cap issue but try starting with your foot flat to the floor and see if that gets it started. This cuts the injector pulses off during cranking, and if the trick works something is causing a flooded engine event. Cheers Bennie
  11. That was one of my thoughts too @Numbchuxbut I figured this was a factory loom trimmed of excess wiring that would use its start wiring. But it does make sense if Docmidbrat uses a “secondary” loom for ignition and start etc given the steering column and starter locations have moved. It could be that one reference wire needed in our southern hemisphere’s current cold weather. Summertime temps might be warm enough to getaway without needing the cold starting mix enriched. And I agree with GD - have a look at what most Gen3 B4 twin turbo owners do - convert to single to get rid of potential twin turbo “aids” as it’s been dubbed on some forums. Cheers Bennie
  12. And how long until Toyota loyalists should go suck a bag of $hit?? Toyotas are build well like many Japanese brands are, but they can be considerably more expensive (over here) with the “Toyota tax”, even second hand they’re above the rest in used car prices compared to their competitors vehicles in the same category. Cheers Bennie
  13. I should’ve added, the build thread for this mid mount brumby is worth the read! Cheers Bennie
  14. @Btcox- that’s the module I’m talking about! I like @azdave’s idea with trying to cool that part down to bring it back into its heat range where it works as intended. Worth a shot and will pin point the issue of the trick works. Cheers Bennie
  15. You should be able to read your codes through the black test connectors in the loom. Hopefully they’re still in your loom and not cut out. Connect these plugs together (or find the pin on the ECU and ground it from memory), turn the ignition to the ON position, engine OFF. Count the flashes of the check engine light. Long flash = 10s, quick flash = 1s. Find a chart with the codes for your ECU, they should be online somewhere if you don’t have the FSM. Things it could be: - sticky IACV - ECU not recognising it’s in start mode - leaking injector(s) causing a flooded situation. Next time try flooring the throttle on start, this will tell the ECU to cut the injector pulses to help clear the flooded issue. If this gets you past your injectors aren’t holding pressure like they should - also check out the ignition switch to ensure it’s not a dodgy switch. Sometimes the ON position can be dicky and not provide power to the ECU, stalling the engine. Same can be said for the start position where the starter motor cranks all day but no power to the ignition for the engine to fire with, in this situation the only way to start the engine is to crank it, let go of the start position and hope the spark in the ON position “catches” the engine rotation allowing the engine to start and hopefully run before the rotational momentum is lost - coolant temp sensor Well that short list got detailed… I’ll leave you to it. Hopefully that code will show something up that resolves the issue. Cheers Bennie
  16. The anti backfire stuff (can’t even remember what this looks like) could’ve been removed with the rest of the emissions gear. Timing should be set at about 8°BTDC. This should be set with the vacuum advance disconnected and the vacuum line plugged. Don’t forget to reconnect it once you’ve set the timing. I’m not up with the cam specs between the NA MPFI and carb, I’m sure they’re similar if not the same - they both scavenge between exhaust and intake valves closing and opening respectively. This is where there is a bit of overlap of the exhaust and intake valve openings. The turbo cams are different though - from what I’ve read. There’s no overlap for scavenging. If your block is a turbo block you’ll have these cams and also compression reducing pistons. If you can get a bore scope down a spark plug hole you will know if you have turbo or NA pistons in there. NA pistons are flat with valve recesses, where as the turbo pistons have a “dished” out section to reduce compression. This will tell you heaps about what you’re working with. The EA82 isn’t a powerhouse by any means and the EJ engine would be the better option, the EJ22 being the best option for power and reliability. You would need a new adaptor plate and flywheel arrangement though. All more $$$$s to put you off. Then to get the best out of the EJ you’d want to run the factory ECU or a good aftermarket ECU. Another thing to check on the EA82 is that both cams are correctly timed with the crank - make sure they’re not a tooth out either way as this will effect performance. Cheers Bennie
  17. Don’t replace your injectors. Your issue is either a dying fuel pump or the ignition module on the firewall is getting too hot. More likely your fuel pump is dying, although when mine died under high temp conditions (<30km/h driving in sand during the warmer months, fine at cruise and around town), the engine would stall out and be a PITA to restart immediately - at which point it would stall out again shortly after. The other thing you could check is power at the main relays. Hook up a multi metre to watch when the issue shows up. If the voltage is jumping with the engine revs there’s an issue with the relays. Same for the ecu power. The reason why I’m suggesting the power issue is because of the way the rev counter jolts you and down - as if power is suddenly cut then reinstated in a repetitive cycle. I’m guessing this issue just keeps going on and on? At what point does the car “snap out” of this behaviour? Cheers Bennie Edit: as for parts, the engine and gearbox are phase 1 gear. Basically the same as the EJ22 legacy. The engine sensors etc are interchangeable. Someone will correct me on the specifics of what’s different but essentially they’re all the same. You might be able to find a FSM from Japan or Australia as we got the impreza from the first model in 1993 or 1994 (I’m not sure which year the impreza started).
  18. This is similar to what used to happen to the EA82 autos - the seal between the diff and auto trans would let go, auto fluid and diff oil would mix, pinion bearing would give out and end up allowing the pinion gear and shaft to move forward to munch the centre of the diff. This usually resulted in a front wheel lock up and a destroyed front diff. As others have said, a replacement transmission is the way to go. The hardest part is unbolting the torque converter from the flex plate I reckon. Keep the torque converter in place when removing the old and fitting the replacement. Or get a shop to do it for you. The sun dials are only going to be a band aid measure at best I reckon. Cheers Bennie
  19. If the dizzy isn’t spinning and the ignition module not being activated the coil won’t give a spark. You need to check that cam belt is present and turning the cam with the engine. As others have said, it’s an easy thing to check - remove dizzy cap and turn the engine with the starter motor, either have someone do the starter and you watch the rotor or mark where the rotor was, flick the starter and see if the rotor moved location. Or remove the cam cover as mentioned and visually check the cam belt. If those check out I’d be looking at the connector at the dizzy to the body loom, followed by the electronic ignition module in the dizzy. It would be odd for it to let go so early with those miles but anything can happen too, it’s definitely worth looking into. All the best. Cheers Bennie
  20. This forum is a huge source of information! Do some searching for the info you want. You might have to use google with your search word then “site:www.ultimatesubaru.org” to restrict the search to this forum Cheers Bennie
  21. That does look like an MPFI intake and it looks like the injectors are still fitted too, which makes sense, otherwise you’d need a cap in there to stop vacuum leaks. Is the carb on an adaptor plate? The MPFI and carb bolt patterns as very different to each other. Do you know if you got MPFI models in Greece? I’m wondering if you only got the MPFI turbo engine over there. If this is a turbo block it will have reduced compression to allow for boost. If the heads are the original turbo heads you should be able to see some cap plugs on the back (or forward in the Kombi) of the head on the vehicle’s LHS - ther would be an oil return tube low in the head that would need to be capped and would probably be quite obvious. If no capping plugs in the head then more likely the NA MPFI engine which would run fine with the carb. Do you run any sort of ECU to run the ignition timing? If not you must have the carb dizzy fitted too. This will keep things simple. The carb does look like it’s some sort of hitachi carb. Whether it’s an EA81or EA82 unit is anyone’s guess from the pic. It’s been ages since I’ve seen an EA82 hitachi (they basically look the same!) but I do recall the bolt pattern between the two of them was different with the EA81’s being smaller than the EA82’s. Cheers Bennie
  22. Don’t bin the legacy until your conversion is up and running properly. Otherwise Murphy might pay you a visit! Cheers Bennie
  23. Do a search on the forum. Many have done it and from what I remember all of them crack the ring lands of the piston - I don’t know if this naturally happens over time with boost or if the builder got boost greed… GD isn’t a wrx guy per-sae, he runs a very successful Subaru specialist workshop and I believe he’s had loads of experience with the EA81 and EA82. Personally I think the EA82 is possibly Subarus worst 4 cylinder engine. Box cams suggest a rush into the over head cam 80’s marketing catch cry. I’d take an EA81 over an EA82 any day. I’d recommend an EJ conversion. From factory the EJ has similar power figures to the factory EA82t - but with much less complication in its build/operation. All the best with your decision and whichever way you go. Cheers Bennie
  24. That’s awesome. There’s not many ppl I’d share my brumby/brat with! Cheers Bennie
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