el_freddo

I reckon you’re on the money about your model year and the same diametre return and vent lines. That’s plausible to me. Our Brumby/BRATs were in production until 1991/1992 and I’ve heard sales still occurring in 1994 but I can’t verify that. So our models ran a lot longer and they may have change the fuel lines to be the same setup as the L series. Cheers Bennie

To crack the crank pulley bolt with the engine out of the car you use one of the clutch pressure plate bolts with a plate that holds this bolt and one of the lower gearbox mount studs. No need to remove spark plugs and shove stuff into the cylinder! Each to their own. I’d prefer to look after my back than give it a workout like that. And getting under the vehicle there’s only exhaust bolts and engine mount bolts to deal with from memory. Anyway, I don’t deal with the EA82 any more. Not even good for a boat anchor in my book. EA81 or EJ for me. If you find it works for you and you’re keen to do it again next time it must work for you and that’s all that matters. The next time you do pull the EA82, make sure you put something else back in it’s place Cheers Bennie

No need to run a new line. Just ensure that what you swap up the front is also what you swap at the back of the cab under the tray area or for sedans/wagons etc, under the back seat. It could be worth removing the fuel tank filler cap and blowing some compressed air through the small return line to ensure there’s no crud blocking it or reducing the flow. Worst case scenario is to run a line from the old vent (swapped to return) line up to the breather line at the filler pipe, tap into that line as the return line. And ensure you seal up the factory return point on the front of the fuel tank! Keep us updated! Cheers Bennie

To pull an EA81 or EA82 is about an hour. I’m with @88SubGL I’d pull the engine to save all the bending over the side of the vehicle, even if it meant working with the engine on the ground rather than on an engine stand. If you’re not touching the clutch it’s not hard to get back in, and even then if you are it’s still not that difficult either. So much easier with the engine out. I’d also be concerned about the other intake manifold gasket leaking in the near future if you didn’t clean up he mating surfaces and replace the gasket. I’ll be interested to see how long the other side you didn’t touch lasts considering your concerns about the dodgy work of the last owner/mechanic this vehicle was subjected to. Give the EA82 a bit of time to sort its leaks out. Sadly you’re bound to find some before the year is out. I’ll admit, I don’t have a lot of love for the EA82, but I do love the L series wagons (and coupe if I could ever get one!). Cheers Bennie

You’ve got three lines from the tank correct? If so the general practice is to swap the vent line and the fuel return line with EJ conversions. You also need to swap it all at the back end before the tank too, otherwise you’re still down to small diametre return line. Cheers Bennie

Chasing down a LHD clutch cable part number. Found the part number and superseding part numbers so Cheers Bennie

All good on this. Got the numbers I needed. Cheers Bennie

I’m trying to track down some factory part numbers that are USDM specific. If someone could pls PM me a USDM VIN for a manual Gen1 or 2 Legacy that would help me out heaps! The VIN details won’t be going any further than me and will only be used for parts searches online to get the correct bits I’m chasing. Cheers Bennie

@SaltyMike- is this surging also associated with difficulty starting the EJ22? Asking as another thread about a hunting idle issue reminded me of a hard starting a fluctuating idle issue I had with my EJ22 many years ago. I had several codes show up, CTS, TPS, knock and I think an O2 sensor issue. It was an absolute dog to start, idle was poor at best and it ran like a dying dog under load. I’ll give it this though, I was still able to reliably drive places once it started, just it was missing a few ponies in this situation. I changed all the sensors at once rather than chasing down what the real culprit was. At the time I was living in our alpine area and working outside in the snow at the remote staff carpark wasn’t a time I was going to individually swap and test which sensor change made the engine operation return to normal. Once they were all swapped, the TPS “gapped” and an ECU reset all was well once again! Cheers Bennie

I had something similar and these were (from memory) the things I swapped out: - cleaned TPS - new coolant temp sensor - new knock sensor I don’t know which one was the issue. I’d be looking at the coolant temp sensor and TPS closely. I’d say if you don’t know the history of the coolant temp sensor, get a new one fitted. This is the video I did back then, while a bit different to what you describe, I reckon it’s related. Mine is a Gen1 EJ22E in an L series with a cut down wiring loom like what you’ve done in the vanagan. Cheers Bennie

Got any codes associated with the idling issue? Or any codes at all? No vacuum leaks present? They’re a couple of things to start with Cheers Bennie

EJs can have a slightly blown head gasket for ages before it’s picked up! Sad you’re moving the vehicle on. A HG swap isn’t too difficult, a second hand engine could be easier if a HG job is outside you’re scope of confidence. Cheers Bennie

Never heard of this magnetic field film before. Crazy! Cheers Bennie

Thanks for the complement. I’m not much more than a backyard mechanic as I like to do things myself. I might go a bit further than some though - and thus I share what I’ve learnt/found along the way All the best with that spark plug, it sounds nasty! Cheers Bennie

I’d think if there was a hole there it would push out coolant until the level in the radiator couldn’t get to the hole any more. This would do two things - first, the cooling system would never pressurise, leading to poor cooling performance. Second, reduced coolant volume will circulate the coolant quicker through a cooling system at or above normal operating temp. And if that’s your original radiator you’ll probably find it’s full of crud. If that hole isn’t your issue the partially blocked radiator could be. Last thing, do you still have the air dam/engine undertray piece still fitted? This is designed to develop a low pressure system in the engine bay at speed to draw air through the radiator. Without this you could find your engine running warmer than normal in hot weather but I doubt it will allow the cooling system to boil. Cheers Bennie

How does this work? Factory heat shield then the blanket over the top? Seems like that would be a super tight fit for the blanket. Cheers Bennie

How much different is the JDM unit to the USDM unit?? If you’ve got the factory engine management that matches the engine type and all sensors are working properly I don’t see why it wouldn’t pass a smog test - assuming the test isn’t a standardised test for all engines in a particular class. Will the XT6 “mature” and avoid smog testing at a certain age? The EZ has to be better in the emissions department compared to the factory EA82 or ER27! My 20c from across the big ditch. Cheers Bennie

Good to hear that these were replaced. When buying genuine cam cover seals I’ve always needed to order the spark plug tube grommets separately. Next question: how did you clean out all the oil that was in there from before the grommets were replaced? Not an easy task! I had my engine on the floor when I did this and I still found it difficult! I used some torn down rags made into strips, shoved these in and twisted them around the spark plug as much as possible using a long screw driver, then did it again with a fresh rag strip until I was confident the tube was pretty clean. Then I removed the spark plug and used a fatter rag strip to clean out any last bits. I could’ve used some Metho at this point to give it a thorough clean but I don’t recall doing that. The results? Well the project is still sitting there waiting to be finished off and used so I can’t report on it yet. Cheers Bennie

When you replaced the cam cover gaskets did you replace the spark plug tube gaskets at the same time? If not, your old ones in there are hard and leaking. Pretty common. Cheers Bennie

Your front and/or rear struts are the issue. Check for leaking oil if they’re original. If aftermarket they’re gas and die quickly from what I’m told. The oil units can leak but still work ok for some time then they result in the vehicle being really unsettled after hitting bumps. If only the tests are dead the giveaway is the vehicle will feel like it tries to crab when in a corner and you hit a bump/pothole/ripple in the road - quite unnerving! A shot ball joint or tie rod end would result in excessive tyre wear and the steering being floaty left and right - meaning very little feeling left and right that moves the car in the same direction. If this is the case you’ll find yourself always correcting the direction of the vehicle like they do when “driving” cars in movies when filmed in the studio… you may also experience a lack of confidence in your steering at speed. Cheers Bennie

So weird seeing this with a flat roof. All of our wagons over here in Oz have the “high roof” with the bump just above the front seats. That’s our standard roofline here! Some inspiration for you: The pic on the trailer isn’t its actual ride height, it’s strapped down nice and tight giving it that awesome lowered look. You can see the roof bump too Cheers Bennie

Just Subarino’s tricks Can’t go wrong there. Cheers Bennie

Get the family member to organise the deal Or the seller is on holiday/out of town for work, I’ve had this but not the lack of communication. Cheers Bennie

Enjoy the install. I’ve got one in a diff ready for Ruby Scoo when the time comes. Got a few bits to sort out before then. Hit me up if you have issues fitting the stub axles Cheers Bennie

Do some research but I believe the STi pink springs from the GD platform were a popular option, as were king springs but I don’t know what’s available through them anymore. Impreza struts could help too but I’m not certain on this. Cheers Bennie