el_freddo

Hopefully not! I’m keen to see what this EA71 is in, I still reckon it’s an L series, but going by my track record in this thread I could be quite wrong!! Cheers Bennie

I dare say a 32/36 would be better, but I’m not a carb guy by any means. I believe you can get a 32/36 from any 80’s or 90’s ford six cylinder found in the falcons that weren’t EFI. Cheers Bennie

It’ll be a clutch throw out bearing - the symptoms you shared are text book TOB wearing out. Cheers Bennie

I’m with a very experienced mate atm that knows loads about things like this. When did this issue show up and what was changed if anything? He’s suggesting the following: - non-hub centric rims - issue with the diff - rear CV shaft issue - locker ratcheting at high speed. Tyre pressures equal on the rear? It sounds to us like it’s the rear CV shaft that you’re removing that’s the issue. The torque locker will still rotate the prop shaft with one CV shaft removed, that’s how they operate. Don’t go messing with the K frame lift blocks! Just drop the moustache bar if you want to experiment. Don’t put in a two piece tailshaft!! LAST RESORT at best… I’m looking forward to an update. Sorry I didn’t read this earlier, was out on a 4wd trip Cheers Bennie

Just this weekend I saw an interesting setup that used some brass fittings to adapt the EA temp sender into the EJ temp gauge sender hole. Yes it removes the sender unit away from the coolant crossover pipe an inch or so but it would still be accurate enough and give a better reading than the EJ sender unit talking to the factory EA gauge. Cheers Bennie

Good question mate! The early engines had two temp sensors - a single wire sensor for the gauge and a two wire sensor for the ECU. I believe at some point, or with the phase two engines, they moved to only having the two wire sensor for the ECU. What I recommend doing is finding a good spot to put the original EA81 temp sender unit into the coolant crossover pipe. You’ll need to test fit the intake manifold and other accessories to find a location where it won’t be in the way of anything. Mark the spot. Have someone weld more metal to the coolant crossover pipe then drill and tap this weld to fit the temp sender unit. An alternative (somewhat easier) way to do this is to put it in the heater line from the engine to the heater core - avoid the return line! Put the sender unit inline in a metal tube, then run an earth wire to this metal tube so the sender unit works. Something like this (pic below) in 16mm or 5/8th heater hose ID size, but with the temp sensor hole being big enough for the EA81 sender unit. Use the factory temp sensor wire to make the gauge on the instrument cluster work and display properly. Using the EJ sender doesn’t read properly on the EA gauge as their calibration isn’t the same! Cheers Bennie

I would not recommend this unless you have proper safety procedures in place and you know exactly what you’re doing and what the potential outcomes could be! Also remember that if the spring doesn’t randomly exit stage left, right, wherever it wants under compression (potentially resulting in serious physical harm or death) that you could run the risk of deforming the spring. And it was the Gen3 Legacy/outback platform that changed the rear suspension to a multi link setup with the coil over shock setup, this started in 1999 in Oz. Cheers Bennie

The thickness of the head gaskets needs to be quite significant to really effect the cam timing so much that you’ll experience a difference or lose power etc. What I could effect is the compression ratio, but again, this would t be noticeable nor effect the ECU’s engine management. There are plenty of places to buy EJ20 gaskets. Australia has a big market of EJ20 engines and thus the HGs are readily available. Postage is the real issue here. There will be other places across the globe that would be easier to source. As numbchux said, the EJ20 turbo gaskets will do the job just fine. Cheers Bennie

EA71 posted in an 80’s forum I reckon this could be in an L series @Steptoe's photos, they came like this from factory in some parts of the world like Africa! But I’m keen to now what it’s in too. As Steptoe said @Mayanstolero, it could be the ignition module in the dizzy that’s died. This is replaceable - I’d also recommend replacing your coil too as these kill ignition modules if they’re not operating properly or when they die. Cheers Bennie

No. They will physically fit and bolt in but the firing ring in the head gasket will be in the ring spot and could cause issues. @GeneralDisorderwill know more about the complications of this. Why not get head gaskets for the EJ20 that you have? Cheers Bennie

The purge control valves used to cause trouble from what a mate told me years ago. He suggested it’s a good idea to relocated this valve to make replacing it easier - removing it from all the heat it cops (it’s usually under the intake manifold on the vehicle’s RHS from memory) would probably help with the longevity of the purge control valve too. Cheers Bennie

Look for a set of aftermarket springs that have a progressive spring rate. These are good for daily driving unloaded while also maintaining some height when loaded. They will compress when loaded but not as much as a set of linear springs and even less than an old set of linear springs! Just swapping out springs for new units will make a huge difference! Cheers Bennie Edit: I can vouch for King Springs. Had them in my L series and in both of our Gen3 Pajeros/Monteros/Shoguns. I get the shipping costs from Oz - probably an arm and a leg but you can only ask!

I’m going to say it’s off an EA82 style engine since there’s a heater hose outlet to the right in the background. AFAIK EA71 still has the dizzy on the front of the engine like the EA81, so I’d rule that out. That’s my 5c guess. Cheers Bennie

We have semi acceptable CV shafts that do the job alright. EA82 oil pumps, what are they? I don’t run the EA82 as I like the oil to stay inside the engine, I got over the lifter tick and the lack of performance. EJ is the way for me in the EA82 platform. The EA81 goes well but this too will be replaced at some point, I’m just chasing some pieces of the puzzle and doing my testing before it goes into the running vehicle. Yeah mate that works out just fine. I know you’re not the sentimental type so I won’t got there with these vehicles! All the best to the new owner of the one that sold. Probably a parts car… Cheers Bennie

The correct phrase is “yeah they ain’t worth anything” or “they’re worth nothing”. Can’t have a double negative in a sentence, it’s like multiplying two negatives together. Sorry, just one of my pet hates of our language that I hear many young kids replicate thinking they sound cool. As the the autos, they’re a good base to convert to dual range manual in my book. Generally speaking the auto models are very tidy having been babied their whole life and usually garaged. I love grabbing the rear shafts from autos as they’re usually “unused” as such and are mint for spares. But as GD says, they’re hard to find parts for from the junkyard. Aftermarket service parts still seem to be available enough, at least they are over here for now - we’ll, until we cut ties with China economically we should be “fine”. Cheers Bennie

That’s an awesome score there @KiwiGL! That’s the sort of conversion ppl want to drop in their Brumbys over here! The matching PT4wd box is good too. It should have better ratios for larger tyres and possibly have the 1.59:1 low range too. It’ll be interesting to see how the gearbox mounts are same or different, and whether the gearbox is the same overall length. If it is, no tailshaft mods needed (winning!), or you might be able to use the front section from the donor vehicle if the gearbox length is different. I’m keen to know! It’ll probably have the 23 spline diff output stub axles too. Makes it all easy! With the pitch stopper rod, cut down the factory L series one to fit the EJ bracket on the gearbox. Overlap the two rod halves when fitted, pin them and tack weld. Finish the weld off properly on the bench Should be a good setup once you’re done. I do prefer the EFI over carb, but that’s me, others disagree! Cheers Bennie

If you’ve got your old clutch kit still hanging around and you’re going to pull the engine or gearbox out, measure the two throw out bearings for any differences. On my EJ conversion with the new clutch I had to put two washers behind the pivot ball to get enough leverage to use the replacement clutch. What I found later on was that the new throw out bearing was about 3mm thinner than the factory throw out bearing. This it what I think your issue could be. Cheers Bennie

Good to hear you’ve found some info on what’s causing the issue with some thorough checking. I’m still one for skipping the parts yards for fuel pumps and buy new aftermarket. Cheers Bennie

There’s lots of compatibility between the two boxes so long as you follow the two key rules: 1) both boxes are dual range 2) the EJ box is a phase 1 box* With 2) and the * bit: The EA82 low range can be adapted to the phase two EJ box if the phase two box is dual range too. The internals of the EA and phase 1 WJ box aren’t a direct swap in to the phase two cases. They will physically fit but reverse will be weakened/may not live beyond the first use as the shaft for the reverse slide gear is ~2mm further out compared to the phase 1 boxes. To get back to the original question: you could mate the EA82 internals and rear case with the phase 1 EJ front cases. Input shaft bearing mods will be required to fit the EJ input bearing housing. You’ll need a custom gearbox mount, prop shaft and maybe linkages. Or you could run an adaptor plate between the EJ engine and EA82 gearbox like they do in EJ conversions to EA series models. You’ll still need the other mods regardless and you’ll need to mod the EA82 flywheel to mate to the EJ crank. The EA82 clutch may need to be beefed up depending on your needs. You can add the bracket for the EJ pitch stopper rod to the EA gearbox too. This option would be easiest for gearbox replacements if it’s ever needed. Cheers Bennie

Yep. Pretty good. It’s only function is to properly locate the TOB to the fork and vice versa, it doesn’t need to be overkill. So why change something that’s working well? Cheers Bennie

Must be a good shelf!! Cheers Bennie

Did you inspect the clutch fork for cracks or deformities? Was the clutch an aftermarket kit that included the throw out bearing? I’ve found aftermarket throw out bearings are undersized - only by several mm but every bit counts! And are you sure it was the correct clutch kit? Cheers Bennie

You’ll need an oil resistant hose to replace it with. I’ve got no idea where to get that stuff over your way. Cheers Bennie

Is that a rhetorical question? Or are you talking to yourself? I’d say because it’s something interesting and rare..? Cheers Bennie

From memory 185/75r13 is the factory tyre size. It should be in your owners manual if you’ve still got it! Cheers Bennie