el_freddo

There’s not much to identify with these engines other than differences in the heads. The valve covers determine if you have the small or larger valve heads. Black is the later heads with the larger valves, aqua type colour is smaller valves. Other than that difference gaskets and bearings etc will all be the same, maybe with exception to the carb if they changed the carb at all during the production run. I’m not 100% on that though. I do know really early EA81s came with a single throat carb, apparently these weren’t produced for long. Someone else will clarify. Cheers Bennie

Glad you found it that easily! Wiring issues can drive ppl nuts trying to find it/them, and some businesses make some good coin trying to chase the problem too. Cheers Bennie

I still reckon disco stuffed up the procedure using UEC in the EA82 for a start. Second was not enough revs. It’s a shame he put in all that effort then parted it out rather than pulling the heads and cleaning the valves up. Wasted project there in my book. Cheers Bennie

That’s the first time I reckon I’ve ever heard or read that phrase! I hope you’re all safe! Cheers Bennie

Sweet Cheers Bennie

You didn’t try the freeze spray trick first? Cheers Bennie

And I always fill until the brim because extra fuel in the tank - more time away from the servo for me, plus it’s the most accurate way to keep fuel records knowing the tank is full to the same level every time. I’ve not had an issue with this method of filling in my brumby, L series or my sister’s Gen3 Liberty. And it’s not like I’m only driving a block or two before the car is shut off and left to sit. Cheers Bennie

Don’t bother thinning out the EA loom. Just tape up any wire ends to isolate them then tuck them out of the way. A new heater core is worth the coin if you can still get one. I replaced the one in Ruby Scoo with an all copper unit and I haven’t looked back since! That was after blowing two heater core end tanks. I got sick of removing the dashboard! On that note, the dashboard doesn’t need to have anything removed from it to pull it out of the car. It goes in and out as a complete unit It’s just weight to deal with - and avoid it touching the windscreen. I lent mine on the windscreen and cracked it from the inside - right in the view of the driver! Cheers Bennie

The purge valve was a common issue in the early turbos - a mate of mine recommended that I move the purge control valve from under the intake manifold to somewhere easily accessible for replacement. So I’d agree that this could be the issue on both vehicles mentioned in this thread. Good thought @1 Lucky Texan! Cheers Bennie

I always have to use a centre pull device to get my steering wheel off. You’ll find a threaded hole one either side of the steering shaft in parallel. I used these and it worked well. I remember one time, probably the first time, putting loaded of tension on the centre pull and leaving it overnight. It popped off overnight. Hope that helps. Cheers Bennie

2005… about the time GM got their grip on the company. Coincidence? I dunno about this huge push for EVs - over here certainly none of our electricity network grid is even close to ready for mass uptake of that type of transport! Time will tell what happens, it’s a balls up atm and with the cost of living going through the roof the chance of ppl moving over to EVs is slim. I know I’m out of the running for one, not that it would meet my needs other than commuting to work and back again. And don’t believe the “zero emissions” marketing or EVs! Out of sight, out of mind. Coal fired power stations will be what’s powering the EV movement while solar, wind and tidal infrastructure play catch up. Interesting times ahead. This work should have started 20 years ago! My 5c for off topic chat! Cheers Bennie

You’re not understanding what steptoe is saying. Move the cams closer to the crank like you did will change their timing as the cams are clocked more one way or the other, unless you moved them in so far that aligning to the next tooth kept the cams at 12 and 6 o’clock when the crank was on its mark. Cheers Bennie

Get in behind the panel and Unclip the plastic clips from inside the car. You will need to remove internal panels for this to happen. Fit clips to the trim piece then push them into the holes in the body work. Cheers Bennie

Rough call mate. You’d be better off posting his in the present 90’s onwards EJ forum My biggest question would be who rebuilt the engine and did they know what they were doing? For your first car I’d be going for something that’s stock, reliable and easy to maintain. With this you’re buying a whole lot of aftermarket gear that you and your son most likely know nothing about, nor would you know what’s stock and what’s not - that doesn’t make it easy to follow up replacement parts. Lastly, yes it looks awesome, but you could be buying someone else’s problems which is often the case with highly modified and raced vehicles unless you know the vehicle from being at races/in the owners circle of friends. Cheers Bennie

Before it heads to the junkyard drop an EJ22 into it. No joke you’ll probably get better fuel economy than what you’re getting now and it will “just run better all round”. Plus the maintenance side of things drops off a cliff with an EJ compared to an EA82! Cheers Bennie

Sticky IACV comes to mind but the occurrence when filling with fuel does not as this issue doesn’t discriminate with fuel levels… Haven’t changed or played any plumbing under the bonnet recently? I’m wondering if it could be some fuel being pushed through the vac lines or an emissions venting system that’s potentially flooding the engine. Mind you I can fill all of our Subarus to the brim and none have an issue with starting afterwards. It’ll be interesting to know what the issue is once it’s sorted! Cheers Bennie

It could be a broken speedo cable. Worst case it’s the plastic gear in the gearbox stripping out. If the speedo cable isn’t it, the easiest fix is to use a GPS for speed readings. Cheers Bennie

Dunno about the cap issue but try starting with your foot flat to the floor and see if that gets it started. This cuts the injector pulses off during cranking, and if the trick works something is causing a flooded engine event. Cheers Bennie

That was one of my thoughts too @Numbchuxbut I figured this was a factory loom trimmed of excess wiring that would use its start wiring. But it does make sense if Docmidbrat uses a “secondary” loom for ignition and start etc given the steering column and starter locations have moved. It could be that one reference wire needed in our southern hemisphere’s current cold weather. Summertime temps might be warm enough to getaway without needing the cold starting mix enriched. And I agree with GD - have a look at what most Gen3 B4 twin turbo owners do - convert to single to get rid of potential twin turbo “aids” as it’s been dubbed on some forums. Cheers Bennie

And how long until Toyota loyalists should go suck a bag of $hit?? Toyotas are build well like many Japanese brands are, but they can be considerably more expensive (over here) with the “Toyota tax”, even second hand they’re above the rest in used car prices compared to their competitors vehicles in the same category. Cheers Bennie

I should’ve added, the build thread for this mid mount brumby is worth the read! Cheers Bennie

@Btcox- that’s the module I’m talking about! I like @azdave’s idea with trying to cool that part down to bring it back into its heat range where it works as intended. Worth a shot and will pin point the issue of the trick works. Cheers Bennie

You should be able to read your codes through the black test connectors in the loom. Hopefully they’re still in your loom and not cut out. Connect these plugs together (or find the pin on the ECU and ground it from memory), turn the ignition to the ON position, engine OFF. Count the flashes of the check engine light. Long flash = 10s, quick flash = 1s. Find a chart with the codes for your ECU, they should be online somewhere if you don’t have the FSM. Things it could be: - sticky IACV - ECU not recognising it’s in start mode - leaking injector(s) causing a flooded situation. Next time try flooring the throttle on start, this will tell the ECU to cut the injector pulses to help clear the flooded issue. If this gets you past your injectors aren’t holding pressure like they should - also check out the ignition switch to ensure it’s not a dodgy switch. Sometimes the ON position can be dicky and not provide power to the ECU, stalling the engine. Same can be said for the start position where the starter motor cranks all day but no power to the ignition for the engine to fire with, in this situation the only way to start the engine is to crank it, let go of the start position and hope the spark in the ON position “catches” the engine rotation allowing the engine to start and hopefully run before the rotational momentum is lost - coolant temp sensor Well that short list got detailed… I’ll leave you to it. Hopefully that code will show something up that resolves the issue. Cheers Bennie

The anti backfire stuff (can’t even remember what this looks like) could’ve been removed with the rest of the emissions gear. Timing should be set at about 8°BTDC. This should be set with the vacuum advance disconnected and the vacuum line plugged. Don’t forget to reconnect it once you’ve set the timing. I’m not up with the cam specs between the NA MPFI and carb, I’m sure they’re similar if not the same - they both scavenge between exhaust and intake valves closing and opening respectively. This is where there is a bit of overlap of the exhaust and intake valve openings. The turbo cams are different though - from what I’ve read. There’s no overlap for scavenging. If your block is a turbo block you’ll have these cams and also compression reducing pistons. If you can get a bore scope down a spark plug hole you will know if you have turbo or NA pistons in there. NA pistons are flat with valve recesses, where as the turbo pistons have a “dished” out section to reduce compression. This will tell you heaps about what you’re working with. The EA82 isn’t a powerhouse by any means and the EJ engine would be the better option, the EJ22 being the best option for power and reliability. You would need a new adaptor plate and flywheel arrangement though. All more $$$$s to put you off. Then to get the best out of the EJ you’d want to run the factory ECU or a good aftermarket ECU. Another thing to check on the EA82 is that both cams are correctly timed with the crank - make sure they’re not a tooth out either way as this will effect performance. Cheers Bennie

Don’t replace your injectors. Your issue is either a dying fuel pump or the ignition module on the firewall is getting too hot. More likely your fuel pump is dying, although when mine died under high temp conditions (<30km/h driving in sand during the warmer months, fine at cruise and around town), the engine would stall out and be a PITA to restart immediately - at which point it would stall out again shortly after. The other thing you could check is power at the main relays. Hook up a multi metre to watch when the issue shows up. If the voltage is jumping with the engine revs there’s an issue with the relays. Same for the ecu power. The reason why I’m suggesting the power issue is because of the way the rev counter jolts you and down - as if power is suddenly cut then reinstated in a repetitive cycle. I’m guessing this issue just keeps going on and on? At what point does the car “snap out” of this behaviour? Cheers Bennie Edit: as for parts, the engine and gearbox are phase 1 gear. Basically the same as the EJ22 legacy. The engine sensors etc are interchangeable. Someone will correct me on the specifics of what’s different but essentially they’re all the same. You might be able to find a FSM from Japan or Australia as we got the impreza from the first model in 1993 or 1994 (I’m not sure which year the impreza started).