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Everything posted by el_freddo
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EA82 runnin warm, and has me stumped!
el_freddo replied to mudduck's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
If the heater core under the dashboard makes a gurgling sound when cornering or accelerating the heater core hoses are backwards on the engine or at the firewall. Swap one end around will sort that issue out. The high temp spike issue sounds like HGs to me. Get on to that sooner rather than later. Cheers Bennie -
4" SJR lift on Loyale, CV annihilation
el_freddo replied to diegotheslinger's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Use the 6mm pin punch to check the stub axle hole alignment with the CV cup’s ole before smashing the roll pin back in place. Or slide under the car or safe to do so and visually check it, either way works for me. Cheers Bennie -
Whoa! That escalated QUICK! Gotta say that GD knows his stuff through and through, and will speak the truth as hurtful as it may be. EG: I accept GD’s fact that I daily drive an EA81 platform that is considered dead. Mine still runs and I can find parts so it gets driven. @frankbth your issue could be a bad sensor causing over-fuelling. Got any codes showing up on the ECU? That would be my starting point if I didn’t know what was up. A dirty TPS can cause all sorts of odd issues, as can a dead O2 sensor. Typically neither of these will show up in codes. A sticky IACV could be the stalling issue. And an exhaust that’s partially blocked will cause strange issues. Shot oil rings can cause plugs to foul quickly too. Does it use much oil or have you not had the chance to drive it enough to know? The black smoke could be a choked exhaust from the previous owner. There’s a wide range of issues at play here. All the best with it if you never come back. Down here we say never say never… Cheers Bennie
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Air suspension shocks
el_freddo replied to auctionjunky's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Send @Giles a PM and see if these are useful to him. I’m sure there’s another member that might be interested in these too. Be patient as it’s a long shot that he’ll reply. Cheers Bennie -
4" SJR lift on Loyale, CV annihilation
el_freddo replied to diegotheslinger's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
36mm socket and a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar. Torque? Just jump on the breaker bar two or three times, then more to line up a split pin hole. To remove the shaft you need to drop the ball joint out the bottom of the knuckle/hub assembly, then you can pull the shaft off the diff stub axle and push/hammer the shaft out through the bearings. I’ve done it while out 4wdn in the bush to replace a busted CV boot. Cheers Bennie -
The underside looks pretty tidy! And I wouldn’t mind that engine cover, ours didn’t come with that over here. Definitely a JDM GT with the rectangular headlights up front there. Any 5x100 15+ inch Subaru rims will fit if those rims aren’t to your liking. I see you made it to RS Lib too Cheers Bennie
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4" SJR lift on Loyale, CV annihilation
el_freddo replied to diegotheslinger's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
EJ conversion, lift and no pitch stopper rod will almost instantly kill CVs as the engine and gearbox move around. It’s surprising what that little rod does! Either fit the EJ pitch stopper rod mount to the gearbox and adapt an EJ unit to your setup (might need to lengthen the EJ stopper rod and bend it slightly to fit). Or somehow adapt the EA stopper rod to the EJ setup. Cheers Bennie -
No worries mate. That’s one super tidy conversion or you’ve found a real unicorn in the Gen1s there! Does it still have the water to air intercooler or has it had mods done under the bonnet? Do the cam covers have lines above and below the spark plug holes? If so this is the original heads. The block will have some cross hatching on the block where the start motor points forward to and under the alternator too. This depicts the engine being the original closed deck block. That steering switch on the dashboard is probably a sports setting - off is most likely easier to use the steering, on gives you heavier steering (or vice versa) for more user feel/input. We didn’t get that feature over here in our models. I believe later model WRXs had a similar feature that was ECU controlled at a certain speed. My knowledge on this is sketchy at best as I’ve only seen pics of the rack with the sensor/restrictor solenoid in it and even this is hazy now. Here’s my RS, waiting for the chance to be cleaned up and put onto club rego (cheap registration that’s got a restricted number of drive days, logbook and must be part of an approve car club): back when it was in one piece with a shot engine: And what it’s looking like now: Down the rabbit hole I’ve gone with one cosmetic issue rolling into another one! And I’m putting an engine together for it since I purchased it with a very shot one, this seems like the easy bit atm. The second pic has the original rims to the RS, yours should be the same too. Your interior looks like grey colour, ours are black for the RS, the standard Liberty (Legacy) here has a grey interior. Cheers Bennie
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G’day RutRoh, I love these older Subarus. If you’re after an old school ride this is the one - but beware that parts are hard to come by to say the least. That said there are many mods that can be done while retaining the original look. AFAIK the JDM models were all auto - this info goes by all the JDM units imported into Australia being auto only. For more info check out rslibertyclub.org/forum - LOADS of info there for you to churn through. Lots of sh!te talk there too… Have fun with it if you ge through with the purchase. Remember it’s a 30+ year old car and an exotic in your country/state! Cheers Bennie
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From memory the two dipsticks are different. My ‘91 EA81 brumby has a yellow handle on the dip stick. It was industry standard by then no doubt. Measure your dipstick and we can compare notes - sorry for those with your minds in the gutter Cheers Bennie
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Brat Headlight improvements?
el_freddo replied to that one kid's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I too don’t like the LED fad that’s going on and the blinking of a fellow driver that they manage to pull off. This is what I’m going to be getting of my brumby with the quad lights. This is the outer hi/low beam globe: https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/products/ZPN-45796_?noseo=true&c=AU&gclid=CjwKCAiA3L6PBhBvEiwAINlJ9EXBryIsRHv8_jdPNHzmuaJT4ptGIVK_H8Fq0dzXs6u_n3tDuDNZShoCuSwQAvD_BwE That’s an Aussie site, you might be able to find one out your way that sells something similar. For me, this setup allows me to choose what globes I want to be using, and running a set of secondary relays triggered by the factory system should have the most voltage possible at the lights. High beam isn’t an issue for me, the single high headlights work really well in my brumby and I’ve got a decent set of IPF driving lights to go with them: That said, the high beam factory lights will be phased out for a replaceable globe H1 arrangement. The glass of the light will look different from factory but it’ll look way better than the LED units IMO. I’d like a set of spot lights/landing lights where the filament is directly exposed forward, but this isn’t allowed on our roads for any of our forward facing lights and I can’t find any units anyway. This is the sort of thing I’ll be looking into, dunno about spending that sort of coin though: https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/narva-72022?utm_term=NARVA-72022&gclid=CjwKCAiA3L6PBhBvEiwAINlJ9MlikwNu4D02X_GQYN_UUYNrsdEWU40kJduBvY-ECx5J2-0IYeDzKhoCBFgQAvD_BwE Cheers Bennie -
4" SJR lift on Loyale, CV annihilation
el_freddo replied to diegotheslinger's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
How much in the strut blocks and the engine crossmember blocks? And are you running a standard spring or a lifted spring? If you’ve got 3 inch on the engine crossmember and 4 inch on the strut tops you’ve already got extra angle on your CVs. If you then went with lifted springs they can add another inch into the entire setup and push the CVs to their extreme limit. Typically I’ve found that a matching lift on the strut and the engine crossmember with lifted springs works well. I don’t chew through CV shafts or boots and I’m on 27 inch tyres. Cheers Bennie -
Did you do lifted springs at the same time as the Outback struts? If so this will push things out hard beyond what the factory suspension adjustments can do. Using the Outback subframe blocks will pull everything back in line but maintain more lift with lifted springs. This should allow you to run bigger a bigger tyre size too. I recall reading about adding a second adjustment bolt to the lower hole to allow the extra movement. I’m not sure, but there might be mob out there that makes this bolt, or you might be able to pinch the adjuster bolt from a wreck and use that. Someone will know more on this. Also check your trailing arms for any deformations such as a knock that’s bent one. The vibration could be a wheel balance issue. Cheers Bennie
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The Awesome Older Generation Picture Thread
el_freddo replied to 6 Star's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
~450km round trip today to see my brother (good catch up that was long overdue!). I drove home with the roof glass out, got a bit cool climbing the hills through Wombat State forest area. This pick was near an old volcano called Mt Franklin with several storm clouds off in the distance - where I was headed for home. I missed all the rain which was good. Longest run with the “tops off” for me so far - about 220km through several climate changes. Last big trip to Melbs and back I managed to get 8.5L/100km - anything at 10L/100km is awesome in my book for a vehicle of this age. This trip might be different as there were more hills and more stop/start intersections. Great day crusing! I enjoyed it! Cheers Bennie -
"Ghost" Voltage after EJ 22 Swap on my Brat
el_freddo replied to Rafavidmess's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
So was an added relay the issue, back feeding voltage once the ignition was off but operating as it should with ignition on? This is the typical behaviour for a relay that’s set up as positive switched but should be earth switched, most common one to mess up is the auxiliary driving lights on later model Subarus since their lighting system is earth switched. Cheers Bennie -
"Ghost" Voltage after EJ 22 Swap on my Brat
el_freddo replied to Rafavidmess's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
ECU will run in an “open loop” program I think when the O2 sensor is dodgy or disconnected. The rough running could be the AFM as you’ve said, or it’s poor fuel pressure/a stuck injector. Or it could just sound really rough without any exhaust on... Get the radiator in and let it run for a bit once you’ve got the noise factor sorted. While the engine is running you might be able to gently tap the injectors to free them up if you can’t hear them clicking away through a stethoscope or long screwdriver/piece of dowel. Interesting that you think that voltage issue is with the original wiring and not the cut down loom, also good news if that’s the case. Cheers Bennie -
"Ghost" Voltage after EJ 22 Swap on my Brat
el_freddo replied to Rafavidmess's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Correct on the carb pump not going to operate once the engine is running - unless you have the tacho signal sent from the ECU to the magic black box that cuts power to the fuel pump in the event of a crash. Have a look into why you can’t operate the EFI pump off the factory wiring. There’s one power wire to hook into the EFI pump, the rest should “just work” without needing to touch it. All the best with it. I’m hoping for you that it’s a simple issue, possibly something feeding back from the main loom, possibly a missing diode but that wouldn’t explain the low voltage to me. Cheers Bennie -
"Ghost" Voltage after EJ 22 Swap on my Brat
el_freddo replied to Rafavidmess's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Have you added any relays to operate power to any of the EJ wiring? You might need to have these set up as a negative/earth switched arrangement. That said I can’t think of anything on the EA81 that’s earth switched other than the radiator temp switch for the thermo fans. All relays on the EJ will be earth switched. Even the CEL light is earth switched and requires 12v positive on the other side of the light for it to operate properly. As for the fuel pump issue, it should run off the factory EJ wiring just fine without doing anything to the factory wiring in that area. You could have a dodgy relay, not common but possible. This relay is earth switched from memory too. The main power relay should have 12v ignition “ON” power directed at the relay to switch the main power source on from memory. I’d have to look at my wiring diagrams to be sure though. How have you hooked up the EFI pump’s wiring to make it run electrically parallel to the factory pump? And how do you know the ECU won’t control the EFI pump? It should prime for several seconds when the key is initially turned to the “ON” position then shut off until you start cranking the engine and the ECU sees a crank angle reference pulse (I think that’s how it knows the engine is turning over to trigger the EFI pump). Last thought is the diodes in the main power circuits, were these retained or cut out of the system? They’re little black rectangular boxes with two wires going to the box. These boxes are small and would be taped inside the factory wiring conduit/tape. If one of these is missing it could be giving you the kind of trouble you’re experiencing. There’s two from memory. I hope this is a help to you. All the best with getting to the bottom of the issue! Cheers Bennie -
1986 Justy 4WD -- Engine ID Help?
el_freddo replied to Rooster47's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
It’s definitely an EA OHV model... I’m guessing an EA81 in that pic. Cheers Bennie -
Awesome news! And surprising too. They’d burn it out here (usually). Zero regard to the car or the (possibly passionate) owner. That’s nuts about the theft of vehicles over there! That sort of thing does happen here but it’s rare enough not to stress about it. If you see it happen here you call the police and because the theft is in progress they’re more likely to attend ASAP. Dunno how you’ll keep your Subaru long term, sounds like an epic battle of vehicle ownership against those that don’t have a vehicle and those that work with a stolen to order checklist. All the best! Bennie
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Thanks @Numbchux - the radiator is an unknown to us as it’s the one that came with the car. Will look at replacing it before our next summer, so November-ish. It won’t be doing any big runs like that in the heat from this point on, and certainly not towing a trailer for some time if ever again. Cheers Bennie