ccrinc

Man, you need (IF the car is actually running ok) to go directly to someplace like an O'Rielly's who can actually read your codes. Asking for people to diagnose this here is going to get you only a bunch of guesses. Good luck. Emily

Ocei77... He is a "she". I used to hang out here a lot, then got away from it for awhile. I guess I need to start signing my posts again since there are a lot of new members who don't know me. Emily ps: An absolutely fool proof, non-threatening substance to use to make oil seals and o-rings go in smoothly and stay in place is plain ol' petroleum jelly. Often known as "mechanic's glue".

No help here, but I had an '86 Olds Delta 88 that did that all the time, from brand new. The engine certainly had the power to overcome it, but you could always feel when the AC kicked in while idling. In fact, I'm not sure it's not sort of "normal-ish" considering the extra load on the engine.

You've already done the job, so I'm not suggesting you pull it back apart, BUT... NEVER use any kind of sealant around oil seals, or anywhere it can get into the oil or cooling systems. If just a teeny, tiny piece breaks off and gets moving in the passages, it can cause all kinds of starvation problems by blocking those passages. Also, there are several seals and o-rings which should always be Subaru Genuine only: aftermarket just don't fit right. The front seal is one of them, along with cam seals, cam o-rings, rear main seal, etc. Just an FYI...

It's also called the front main seal if you looking for it online or from a parts house.

OK, that tells me that you should check/replace the coolant temperature sensor which is located on the water crossover pipe under the intake manifold. Or maybe the contacts have just corroded and need cleaning. This tells the engine whether is it hot or cold and either enriches or leans out the fuel mixture. If the weather has been warm, it could very well tell the car (in error) to still run rich which would account for both the fuel smell and poor mpg.

The evap canister is also known as the charcoal canister. In your car, it is located on the right (passenger's) side under the hood, right behind the headlight. It is a round cylinder, about 3-4" in diameter. http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAcQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdrive2.subaru.com%2FSum03_FuelSystem.htm&ei=w74WVbi0DYSPyASfq4DIAQ&psig=AFQjCNF8F7FRYq-ID-5coruc_J9CNk2_kg&ust=1427639741386695

That's the problem: we don't know if it actually is a piston slap noise (which generally goes away when the engine has warmed up), unless it's gotten bad enough to damage the cylinder walls. Nor do we know if it is AVCS or VVT. It could be a cracked ring land, a cracked flex plate (if it's an automatic), loose wrist pin...the list goes on. It is also possible that a valve adjust could solve the problem. I'm just saying that it is all conjecture at this point. Every action at this point, without knowing, is just throwing money at it.

1) To answer your first question, the choices of engine for your car are limited, unless you would want to do an entire swap, which it is obvious you don't. Therefore, you must either find an engine which matches your engine (between 2006-2009). If you have AVCS or VVT, it must match those. Also, the PCV hole in the top of the block, crank sprocket, left cam sprocket, EGR, and number of exhaust ports must match. The crank sprocket and left cam sprocket can be swapped: the other stuff...not so much. 2) Diagnosing the kind of noise you describe is nearly impossible without tearing into the engine. There are so many things which can cause it. So, without going into that any more, yeah...you need a new engine.

There is no such thing in a Subaru engine as a "camshaft bearing". What kind of noise are you getting and can you pin down from what of the engine it's coming?

Good to hear!

Also a common indicator of a clogged evaporative canister.

I'd tap it.

Not to rain on your parade, but an Outback transmission for an SVX? Really? The only ones known to be a direct swap were out of the turbo Legacys. They are also the only ones capable of handling the torque. Did you match the gear ratio? SVX were either 3.9 or the optional 3.545. The torque converters are different as well. A '97 Outback should have a 4.44 auto transmission. I think you have bigger problems than whether an engine you don't want is overheating.

The Baja was built on the Legacy Outback platform.

The capacity is 12 qts. when filling a new transmission and torque converter. 8 qts. for a full fluid change. Also, considering what you're telling us, I suggest you also drain and fill the front diff. DON"T use 90W in a Subaru! Use 70W85 or whatever lower multi grade there is. They keep changing the weights: it's hard to keep up. Dexron 3 is what's indicated for a Subaru ATF, incidentally.

We have negotiated some great parts prices and are passing the savings on to our customers. We do all Subaru engines (except Justy) from 1980 to present. 3 year, 50,000 mile nationwide parts and labor warranty. To see our products, go to www.ccrengines.com Located in Denver, CO.

Turbo pistons are "dished" for a reason. Those pistons won't last long with a turbocharger and high compression.

"Stop leak" type additives are NOT a good idea for Subaru engines. Ever.

If you get ACL bearings, do NOT get the ones in the blue/white box. They used to be made in Tasmania and were great quality. Now that style is made in China and they're only 2 metal bearings without any copper. Michigan Clevite also repackages NDC bearings which are OEM. The ends of the bearings are clearly stamped NDC. Keep the pistons in the same cylinders from which they came.

An impact driver is nearly essential for anyone who regularly works on Subaru engines. Not to be confused with an power impact tool, this is the kind that you hit on the end, and it slowly turns the screw. Each "impact" on it, rotates the end about (?) 1/8" inch. If you think those screws are bad, try the brass ones on the back of the oil pump!

What ^^he^^ said.

OK, in deference to what Fair said, please define "bog down". Is the engine not running properly at that time, or is it just not wanting to "go"? Also, in looking at the OP again, I see you said in "first" only. Are you having to try to go up hills in first gear?

Swap the PCV. It's an inexpensive part. About $10-12 at a dealer. Like Larry said, use only a Subaru Genuine.

One of the shift solenoids or pressure control balls which are part of the valve body is either bad or really dirty. (I've seen that job and I don't want it.) If it was my car, the first thing I would try is to drain all the ATF, refill using at least 1 qt. of Rislone, run it about 50 miles, drain and refill with new ATF. If gunk has built up in there (and after all this time, the chances it hasn't are slim), this should help clean it out.