ccrinc

Okay guys: the ONLY thing you have to remember is The one with the smooth back goes in the front, the one with the grooved back goes against the block. (The groove is clearance for the front main seal.) It's that simple. No dots, no numbers, no pins. They're all identical for all EA82 engines. And yes, the engine won't run well if they're reversed. Smooth = front Grooved = rear Got it? Good! Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

GD, Yeah, all the writing on the paper in the box is in Japanese. There's one small part, translated into English (badly ), that's a hoot to read. Made In Japan is printed nice and large on the box. We get ours from an importer who gets them in bulk out of Japan. If they run out, it may be as long as 5-6 months before they'll get more in. That's a part of our business that can be a real headache. For us to buy direct from Japan, we'd have to purchase a complete container of just ONE part (container = about a semi trailer size). That's just too much, in more ways than one, for a small company like ours. So, about every 6 months or so, I have to go scrounging to all our suppliers for some part or another. It's not always the same one: could be rings, bearings, pumps, whatever...spread across a variety of years and models. At these times, even the dealers don't have them. In fact, there have been times we've actually had more of something than SOA has in all their warehouses combined! If we would use "aftermarket", it would be different. Happy New Year to Everyone! Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

If you don't want to pay the $80 or so buck Subaru sells them for, try to find a good import parts store that sells Paraut pumps. The often list them as "Genuine", because they have made the pumps for Subaru for years. A good quality aftermarket brand is GMB. Probably a little easier to find than Paraut. IMHO, this is not a part to try and cheap out on since oil pressure and circulation are imperative in keeping a Subie in good condition. Especially since these 2 brands can be had for somewhere in the $30 range. Remember to replace the 2 o-rings, Mickey and Minnie! Also remember that the turbo oil pump is different from the non-turbo models. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

I haven't used GCK axles, but at this point, I won't use any axles on my cars except MWEs. His are superb and he stands behind them. In fact, many of the dealers buy his when they can't get them thru SOA's program. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Matt!! Well, well. Sube owners don't die, they just add their names to more and more forums! Welcome aboard! Emily (aka Turbogramma on AWD Pirates)

Try this: put about a quart of Rislone (yes, the engine treatment) into your tranny. Drive normally for about a week, or until it seems to be less sticky. Drain, and refill normally. Rislone takes the "shellac" off the gears and synchros that builds up over time from heat and old fluids. It's saved more than one manual tranny for me, and many more for other people I know! Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Theoretically, you can put any engine into any car....how easy or hard it is...well, that's another question entirely. As the saying goes, "Speed costs. How fast do you want to go?" Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Our engines are already set at #1 TDC. Just thought you might like to know. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Almost all early non-turbo Legacys were 4.11. At that time, the only Legacys with 3.9 were turbos. I can look up that number tomorrow at the shop to make sure (if I remember). Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Send me an email with your zip codes and model years and I'll get right back to you. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

They can't put in a new bearing without completely disassembling the engine. The case has to be split to get at them in any way. FWIW. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

It may be expensive, but supposedly, it's all you'd ever need for the life of the car, unless you have a leak. This goes back to old VW technology: they used to use essentially the same thing. It's mineral oil based (hell, it may be plain ol' mineral oil, like you can buy at Walgreens for a couple of bucks :-\ for all I know). Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

We have talked to Eli and the situation is resolved. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

I think I need to jump in here and clarify things a bit for everyone. We did build a custom engine at customers request to make it as non-interferential as possible. It is not possible to make ALL engines we build non-interferential: we do refit the '97-98 EJ22 engines to be so however. Problems like this are one of the reasons we prefer to actually talk to someone when they are ordering an engine. I only talked to one person, who knew practically nothing about the car. THIS ALSO A NOTE TO PEOPLE WHO PREFER USED 1999-UP ENGINES: You need to be sure that the one you are getting matches the one you have! 1999 was a year of many changes. The Subaru factory manuals are about as clear as mud on this subject. Supposedly, if it's a California car, the crank sprocket is the 23 tooth: the 6 tooth is non-California. HOWEVER, in 2000 this changed to whether it's manual or automatic transmission. Couple with this that the timing belt and left cam gear also differ. What's frustrating for us is that even with all the resources we have at hand, following the alledged "rules" isn't always a 100% guarantee that the configurations will match, especially if you're not the original owner and can be certain there have been no swap outs, upgrades or modifications. The only certain way to match these up is to take the front of the old engine apart prior to ordering, and let us know what you have. Since I didn't have info on who was actually doing the swap or where the car was, nor how to contact them, (I had a delivery address only) it became "follow the manual" and make our best determination based on what info we had. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Go to Yahoo Subaru-Vanagon Group. Tons of information there. Devoted to nothing but converting Vanagons to Subaru engines. Yes, it will be less expensive overall than replacing the VW engine. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Nipper, Yeah, yeah, I know. Opinions are like X#($@s, everybody's got one Let me add: mine is not the only car that's running like this. I know of at least a dozen others. All of them for several years, and many thousands of miles. Now, Manarius may be right about being pre-96: I'm not positive about that. On the other hand, SOA also says the EJ25 engines are unrebuildable. (On a big assembly line, I'd have to agree.) But gee, we sell them to dealers all over the country every day. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

I've been running my '92 Legacy Turbo Touring Wagon LE in mostly FWD for several years now. 1) It DOES help the gas mileage 2) It DOES NOT hurt the transmission 3) I actually like the way it handles in FWD better for the most part. More agile, corners every bit as well as in AWD. (Except for the occasional torque steer ) I have a switch mounted on the dash that I can flip to make it go from AWD to FWD to AWD at any speed, any time. Bad weather? No problem! Flip the switch! Good weather? Flip it back. The whole thing about "it's gonna hurt a solenoid or this or that" is absolutely trash. Real convenient if I get a flat too. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Hank, Didn't you get my fax? I also talked to the tire shop last week. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

I second Buddy at Mobile Mechanic. Truly good, honest, knowledgeable guy. Now, for the Subaru thing. You might try calling Greg Kvatsak at Elway Subaru West. He's the parts manager and if there's any way Subaru will warranty the block, he'll find it. (Incidentally, overheating can and does damage the rod bearings. That one incidence seems to be a stretch though.) Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

No sealant. Clean both surfaces thoroughly. About 15 ft. lbs. MAX. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

I know there are CD-ROM versions on ebay from time to time. Very good too. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

It seems to me, if you read it carefully, these are used, NOT rebuilt heads. (It doesn't say they're rebuilt anyway.) Many of the processes that are taken for granted in a rebuilt head have additional costs also. They may be good, but I'd read the "fine print" first! Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

The EZ30 was especially designed to fit in the same engine bay as a 2.5L, so they could offer it as an "option". Using a timing chain instead of serpentine belt made it over 2" shorter (front to back) than other 6 cyls. That engine is due to be a major leaker. Something like 49 bolts hold the front chain cover on: and they have to come off in a very specific order. If (and when) the chain goes, it's gonna take out a whole bunch of metal! It may yet prove to be quite reliable, but I'd advise being very pro-active on maintenance, because when it goes, it's gonna go in a big way! Emily http://www.ccrengines.com

Actually, if you have ZERO compression on one side, and ran it like that, you probably had at least one cylinder sleeve turn. In which case, the engine is toast. The valves on these engines don't burn: they're enormous for the size of the engine. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com ps: do you know the Zangs?

Naw, you probably have to pay extra for that too! Emily http://www.ccrengines.com