
ccrinc
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Everything posted by ccrinc
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Ej-25
ccrinc replied to blitz's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
When that rear plate backs off, you may not obviously lose oil pressure, but you lose oil circulation. The front seal can and will lose flexibility after time without the back plate being loose, and you can replace just that, but at 60K, it's worth it to have the oil pump rebuilt/resealed. A good Subaru shop can do that: no reason to spring for a new pump. They're practically bullet proof otherwise. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com -
Actually, S-Wings Stuff's repair kit is a really solid, permanent fix IF you don't have damage to the crank otherwise, or the block. If you can move the crank backwards and forwards (not side to side) you have probably damaged the thrust. In that case, you're looking at major repairs/replacement. Otherwise, I've seen cars repaired with that kit that are running great. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
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Clevite sells the true OEM NDC bearings repackaged under their name. They are the best choice. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
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Well, of course I know that! Warming up is driving and applying the brakes (cautiously) until they react properly. It only takes a few applications of the brake pedal to get everything moving properly. Incidentally, when the brake booster failed in my old car, the symptoms were, IIRC, quite different. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
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My '92 SVX does the same thing. Now I'm just careful about moving the car before all the fluids get circulating. I had the booster replaced under warranty on an '86 Olds Delta 88 Royale Brougham that I used to drive. (God, those were THE most comfortable seats!) The symptoms were completely different. At this point, I'm not convinced my problem is the brake booster: I think it's hydraulic fluids not wanting to work properly until they get warmed up a bit. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
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Ummm, not really, but thanks for thinking of us. We do NOT do performance. Not interested, not our niche. There are like, 50(?) companies out there who do all kinds of crazy performance work, but they won't "lower" themselves to do a stock rebuild. Stock rebuilds are our specialty. And we like it that way. :cool: Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
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Needed Mechanic in Palm Springs/Palm Desert
ccrinc replied to richierich's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
There's a guy in Aguanga I'd highly recommend. He's not really close either, but really good and honest. (Nothing is close to Palm Desert). :-\ Alan's Garage. (951) 763-5634. Alan Jacobs. And he has experience with the EJ25 engines. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com -
There are so many differences in the '99 EJ22 that I'd have to see everything side by side to tell you if it would work. The '99 2.2 is a hybrid between the EJ22 and the EJ25 SOHC. Very different internally. I'd even question whether the ECU will work with the earlier model. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
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Jerry, You looking to get rid of the block? Call me! (303) 293-9230 Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
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Oil Filter ?
ccrinc replied to rweddy's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Under our warranty, we require people to use Subaru Genuine oil filters. With this filter problem, I've been trying to figure out a decent way to let people know NOT to use those filters! The only other filter we consider as "warranteeable" is the NAPA Gold model. Good, solid oil filter. In fact, we have an engine in our shop that developed a slight rod knock after the owner put one of those defective filters on and took a road trip. The sealing ring is hard as a rock, has dents in it, and is way too small for the surface it's supposed to cover. One of our contacts at a local dealer is trying to get SOA to help us out with this, since the car was running perfectly before he put that POS on it! So, if anybody reads this who has one of our EJ22 or EJ25 engines, DO NOT use those filters!!!!! If you can't get the older style, use the NAPA Gold ones! Emily http://www.ccrengines.com -
Turbo water pump is quite different. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
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If one of your turbo cooling hoses has a leak, it will only leak when your turbo is "running". We ran into that a few years ago. A dealer couldn't figure out why it was happening, and since they bought the engine from us, it had to be our fault :-p . We got the car over to our place, and figured it out. I asked why they didn't replace the hoses as a matter of course while the engine was out? Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
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There is indeed one issue about swapping an EJ22 into a later model Outback. In mid-'98, the bell housings on both the transmission and engine went from a 4 bolt to an 8 bolt pattern. So, if you try to put a '95 EJ22 into a '99 Outback (for instance) you do not have enough bolt holes to bolt up the starter. Drilling an additional hole in the 4 bolt EJ22 is iffy at best, unless it's being done by one very precision drilling master. After 5/98, there may be issues with sensors, OBDs, ECU, etc. Not enough swaps in that time range to have documented everything. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
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The left head IS different on a '96. In '95 they started putting an EGR pipe on that head. If you take the intake with the rest of the engine, it'll work. Your exhaust pattern is different however. The '90-95 EJ22 was dual port exhaust: from '96 on the exhaust is single port. Won't mate up to your current y-pipe, so grab that too. As for the ECU and wiring, it should work together ok. Use the engine wiring harness that's with the intake, and plug it into your main wiring harness. (Check the configuration of the plugs first just to be sure.) I think the ECU will work with it. Stands to reason: you can replace an EJ25 with a '95 EJ22 thru mid-'98. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com
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What I'm wondering is how an EJ25 can have "jumped timing" and have no valve damage? These are so sensitive to timing issues that if the timing belt is off by 3 teeth, it's already jumped time and you'll have internal damage of some kind. While I agree with the hydraulic tensioner probably being the culprit, if the engine is undamaged, he's really, really lucky. Another possibility is a cam trying to seize. That's common too. Incidentally, the EJ25 isn't exactly a bored out EJ22. The blocks are nearly identical, but the cylinder castings are simply made bigger. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com