jarl

The question is: do you want a black T-shirt with clear lettering on it, or a white T-shirt with blue accents and black lettering? Decisions, decisions...

Those look nice... trust me The first thing you need is new pads, but before I would check whether the sliding surfaces on the caliper are badly rusted. The tolerances on between the pads and the guides (covered with the stainless steel shims) are very tight, and any rust underneath the shims can prevent the pads from moving freely. I would use Evaporust on my calipers but I don't think they will come out without a fight. Then you want to make sure that the pins are moving freely, and that the rubber boots on the pin and the piston are in good shape. If you need to overhaul too much, it may be cheaper to buy some rebuilt calipers. As for the disks... well. The easiest thing to do is just replace them. I didn't do it with my car, though. I just wore them down with the brakes I'll replace the rotors when my bank balance recovers a little bit from all the stuff I have thrown at this car. Edit: forgot to mention: start soaking all the bolts with a good penetrating oil!

You can find Evaporust at a lot of local stores. And yes, it's a wonderful product, specally because it's environmentally safe. You can touch it without fears. Just one comment: In their literature they say it's designed to remove any iron molecule not firmly attached to it's substrate (like rust). But this also means the parts will be stripped of ANY protective coating they may have (i.e. this thing strips the coating from zinc plated bolts). Keep an eye on any exposed metal you may find after cleaning it using Evaporust.

Come on... you are talking about a 20 year old design, and still the pillars managed to provide some space above the passenger's seat. I say this is a honorable discharge for your soob Now... if you are parting it out put me in line for some of the goodies

Man... it sucks big time. It's interesting to see how the B and C pillars bent way far from the top of the windows. It looks like the structure behaved quite well... Note to self: remember to buy winter tires

If I understood it correctly, a bad mechanic caused the ball joint to break, and that eventually led to the demise of the axle Now, about those $10...

Yep... I have the old EJ25's in my EJ22. No problems whatsoever. Capacities will change, though...

I guess we are missing a "really new gen" category, since the "new gen" starts with MY '92 or so

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10308972&postcount=11

Amazing, isn't it? And it looks like the engine bay was designed for it

"Compared to the Impreza, the BRZ's engine is placed 120 mm lower and 240 mm further back". Oh my... engine underground?

For people following this thread, the spec for the '99 EJ25 says 1 and 4 kΩ for both sensors (with the sensors off the car)

Oops... wrong thread

I'm glad to say you are somewhat off... Personally, I'm of the opinion the FSM is worth every penny of it's price. The "diagnostics" section of the FSM has plenty of information, it's just not included with most of the copies of the FSM you find around. For people checking their CPS, the FSM for my '99 OBW mentions between 1 and 4 kOhms between terminals with the sensor off the car. This value may change if you measure the sensor without removing it, though...

By all means, don't feed the eBay manual sellers. All the information they have to offer -save very few of them- is all available through the web. The Subaru manuals are available through the "My Subaru" page: http://www.subaru.com/my-subaru/index.html You have access to 50 docs an hour for three days for $34 or so. Or just ask the right questions and you may get the right answers

62 months... Should we call the Guinness Records?

"Bingo"? Sorry. back to your regular programming PD: Did you check the engine ground near the starter?

- "Weak or broken valve spring" - "Defective ignition system or throttle chamber idle adjustment" (image from jdmfsm)

It's a tricky question... I'll go for "all three have an 'I' " With such low temperatures, it's possible something shrinks enough to stop making contact. I don't know if those three things share a common ground under the dashboard, though...

Adding insult to injury... My car can use some brake work as well, but I know the moment I'll try to do it I will regret it for a long time...

...or, if your calipers are anywhere like the ones in my car, just replace the whole thing. They start at $30 or so at Rockauto (even at advanceauto they don't run for much more after the core refund)

What Dave said... If one of your pads was thinner, it means the caliper wasn't moving freely (meaning even if you put new pads you'll have the same issue). Furthermore, if you think it's the pin that is preventing the whole thing from moving, you should not be using that pin at all.

1. Sound like a vacuum leak. Specifically, I had the same problem a few days ago when the hose that goes to the IAC was disconnected accidentally when I checked the air filter 2. You checked voltages, but what about the ground? Can you try to measure the voltage present at the ground pin at the blower connector with the motor connected and the blower on? My guess is that the blower is getting grounded through the deicer.

Yep... sounds like a battery terminal/cable with too much resistence. Try measuring to see if there's a voltage drop between the alternator (+) terminal and the (+) terminal at the battery, and do the same between the engine block and the (-) terminal at the battery. You should get a reading of 0V in both cases,

If the splicing is the reason for going OEM, Rockauto offer several that include the connector. The only issue is deciding which one to buy (BTW: which brand is OEM?) Can anyone offer feedback about the brands they offer? For my OBW I can see: APWI Ultrapower NTK Standard Motor Products (connector?) Denso Delphi Bosch Beck/Arnley Airtex AC Delco