Red92

It's too bad these modern cars have so many electrical loads... When the alternator quit in my old VW, I ran it without a charging system for about 3 months before I finally got around to fixing it. I just hooked it up to a trickle charger overnight at home after every few days of driving, and avoided driving at night (headlights). If you decide to limp it home without a pulley, take grossgary's advice and get the battery fully charged before you do. Also, if you have a spare battery that someone can bring out to you, you can always stop and swap them if the first one gets too low. Don't forget that the brake lights are another electrical load. So driving during rush hour might be a bad idea... Good luck.

Not all '92s. My JDM 1992 VZ Type-R didn't have any airbags.

Does your car still have any of the factory evaporative emissions components? If so, you could connect up the fuel cell so that it vents the same way that the factory tank vented. You mention "pressure" several times, but don't forget that while the engine is running, the tank will be under a vacuum as the fuel is pulled out by the pump...

In addition to preparing the car so that it will make it, be sure that you also prepare YOURSELVES in case it doesn't. Will your cell phone have reception out on the trails? I have used this external antenna on my phones with great luck in the past. It doesn't work miracles, but it does help significantly in the fringe areas: http://www.wilsonelectronics.com/ProductDetails.aspx?Product=24&title=Magnet-Mount+Antennas+(301103%2f301125%2f301128%2f301703)&Category=26 If you can't count on cellular reception, you might want to consider a CB, or even a ham setup if you or one of your friends is licensed. It is also a good idea to bring some basic emergency "band-aid" type of repair/recovery/survival items - duct tape (don't laugh), bailing wire, zip ties, oil and plenty of drinkable water, a small amount of non-perishable food, a first-aid kit, basic tools, a small shovel, a good flashlight, etc. A GPS would be great if you had one. Not for the maps, but so you can give someone your coordinates in an emergency. Lastly, tell someone where you will be going, and on what trails, and arrange to check in with them when you get back. Set a date & time for them to "start worrying", and give them the appropriate emergency numbers to call at that point. Here is a great example of what NOT to do. The first video is the "fun run" that destroyed the car, the second is the effort it took by the 4x4 community to recover it afterwards. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0S4NLGkHLWU Good luck, have fun, and be sure to take pictures and let us know how it goes!

Did you use a closed-cell foam? A lot of the expanding foam out there is the open-cell type, which will absorb and retain water...

#1: Insulting long-time and well-respected members here is NOT a good way to get help. #2: Why would anyone tell you what parts or procedures to try, when we know that you cut corners on the work, and then call the police and take people to court when things don't go right? #3: You have contradicted yourself:

That's a great idea to protect yourself for the future, but what about the existing power issue?

Paragraphs please?

Looking at my Chilton's manual, I'm now thinking that it is the vapor separator, which apparently keeps gas from sloshing through the vent line and into the charcoal canister on hard stops or cornering.

Hmm... My 70's VWs had two canisters, so it might be possible that the Subarus did too. The VWs were always a mess... fuel lines going every which way, running the length of the car twice, etc, etc. Most people would pull the whole system out, because when all the hoses and lines went bad, it was a nightmare to track down where all the fuel fumes were coming from.

That's probably the charcoal canister for the evaporative emissions system. It traps the vapors from the gas tank (which in older cars would have been vented to the outside), and then sucks them in and burns them when the engine is running.

For what it is worth, if Diamond doesn't have what you need, Marsh Racing Wheels (MRT/MRW) is another vendor who builds custom wheels. http://www.mrw-wheels.com/

Blue, and not a Subaru? You're not very good at teaser threads.

That's why 'ABawm 88 GL' was asking about wheels from Diamond Racing - they make custom steel wheels in any size or offset you need. http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/

This question comes up fairly often, and the answer isn't quite as cut-and-dried as many make it seem. Tire size measurements always have a bit of variability, due to the different tire and tread designs. Even with the exact same size markings, some tires may fit while others do not. For example, a tire with a rounded shoulder on the tread may clear spring perches which a tire with a more square shoulder would not. You also have to remember that the section width (205) is based on an assumed rim size - so if your wheel is a different width, the tire section width will change as well. Here's a few quick examples from TireRack to illustrate the point. Below are the tire names and their measured section width on a 6" wide wheel. All of these tires are the "same size" - 205/70/15. Pirelli P4 Four Seasons: 8.0 inches Sumitomo HTR T4: 8.1 inches Firestone FR710: 8.2 inches BFGoodrich Premier Touring: 8.3 inches Michelin HydroEdge with Green X: 8.4 inches So as you can see, there is a fair amount of variance among tire brands and models. I'm not just speaking theoretically either... My '94 GT is currently sporting 15" Outback wheels with tires in the "they won't fit, it's impossible!" 205/70/15 size... without any rubbing.

And the GT hatch badge: (http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48004&start=25) If anyone has one of these, please let me know! Mine is missing.

The GT sections from the 1994 Subaru Legacy brochure: (all images from: http://www.legacycentral.org/library/literature/94_legacy_brochure.htm)

So I found some pictures of another '94 GT with the GT wheels repainted. This time, they have been painted black. They look better than I expected when they are clean, but I definitely don't like the look once they get dirty. So, while I wasn't planning on it anyway, this pretty much confirms that my wheels will NOT be painted black. (http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48327) .. a version I lightened up a bit: (http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=40847&start=850) (http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48004)

Haha. My '94 is *almost* that bad. I'm debating what to do though... because despite the fact that every gear feels like neutral, I actually don't have any problem shifting it and neither do the other people who drive my car. The centering spring is still good and strong, and it doesn't rattle or anything. So is it worth the effort to fix it? Dunno.

What model is it? '94 had a number of special editions... sometimes people have one, but don't even realize it.

Yep, it's the same deal for a lot of old cars. :-\ These are the keys, in my experience, to making the parts situation work: * Collecting & hoarding (parts cars and used/broken parts included) * Speculative buying (buying parts you might need in the future, or parts that others say are becoming hard to find) * Rebuilding/Refurbishing (fixing what you have instead of buying new parts) * Fabrication (building equivalents or adapting alternatives for the parts you can't find anymore) * Networking (Finding other people who also have parts stashes) * Preventative maintenance (Keep things from breaking or needing replacement in the first place!) ... and finally * Keep the car in the garage and never drive it for fear of anything happening to it.

That epoxy repair is what my Loyale had had done to it... it didn't hold. :-\ And that tank wasn't rusty either, the fitting must have been broken off initially from an impact or botched fuel line replacement. If the tank is already out of the car, I would AT LEAST take the tank to a radiator/gastank shop and have them repair it properly, by brazing on a fitting, instead of using epoxy. Gas tanks are a safety item. If it has pinholes and fittings rusting off already, then I personally would consider it beyond patching. For the peace of mind, I would look for a different tank.

Might as well give it a shot! I had another VW that was painted bright red with leftover paint from a guy who worked at a toy factory. The car was totally beat on, and our test drive was him doing about 15 minutes of tearing through the fields and dodging trees up and down a ravine, so I *know* the car had a hard life. But the paint? Still bright and glossy, it flexed for the dents without cracking, and there's hardly any chips or scratches on it anywhere. For a repaint, single stage with no clearcoat, it's staggeringly durable and it looks great! I don't have any idea what type of paint they used in that toy factory... but I'd paint everything I drive with it if I could!

Shouldn't be that hard to track down... just have a friend listen for it while you're driving.

I've had great luck with this technique in general, on any rusted fastener. Any time something is rusted, the tendancy is to just muscle through it and get it out, which is how you break bolts/studs or twist out captive nuts. If you can get it to move at all, then just back it out until you hit resistance, then go the other direction and tighten it up a few turns. If you keep repeating this, it works great to clear the rust and crud off the threads, and importantly - shed the cleared crud, instead of letting it bind up the nut as you get further along.