richierich

You need to get used hub assemblies, maybe your hubs have been tweeked. Whatever the problem is, it would be cheaper and less time intensive to just change out the hubs rather than replacing the bearing 3-4 times. If you can't find any sealed wheel bearings locally, let me know and I can hook you up. richslaw@hotmail.com

Actually the only thing that could make it cooler would be that if it was a RX, which would give it the 4WD lo shifter. But finding a car with 40k miles and in good condtion is really hard to find

Much worse in my opinion.

Would be more than happy to have you bring it in. My FATHER, not me is good with carberators. He has worked for Subaru since '79. He can even make the most high-mileage carb run really well. So yours should be pretty easy. Give a call when you get a chance. Evening or Saturday appintments work best with his schedule, or leaving it for a couple of days. Superior Import Repair 503-288-8634

In addition, 85 and 86 Turbos (gen1 heads) were prone to crack head under 60k miles. OR at the least bit of overheating. So alumnum head rebuilders has a lot of gen 1 heads in stock, by no gen3? I don't resell any gen1 heads to my customers, and only reuse them if I took them off and they weren't bad at that time.

See, I knew I wasn't crazy. Well, not about seeing cars that aren't there. Well maybe, cuz I say to my wife, look at the cool Subaru and she says "where"? (that was a joke) Haha!!!

No, this was a EA82, that was for sale recently in the marketplace. Doesn't anyone remember it? Wish I had downloaded the pictures now.

I recommend using Subaru seals. They are superior to Napa or anyone else. I often use aftermarket belts. The life of the belt depends greatly on installation, new tensioners, if they get oil or water on them. It always seems that I am into the front end of my EA82 Subarus closer to ever 30k miles, for something.

I have seen a set on vehicles as early as late 89. And I believe they made Turbos up to 92 (maybe sold as 93) Though stage 3 heads are the best. A good set of stage 2 heads work just fine. The main thing is to buy heads that have not been previously overheated. And install parts that prevent further overheating (i.e. new hose, double core radiator) If you have to have Stage 3 heads, prepared to spend time looking for them, or paying a higher than average price. I have a few sets but my are earmarked for furture projects.

They are really cool people. Had a 2.5 SOHC motor that did not have a EGR return tube on the head, and he offered to send me the tools to drill and tap it. Ended up buying a head locally but still very nice of him to answer my questions, and offer his expertise and parts.

Tolerance02, what is your address so I can start shipping you the waterpumps that I get in with bad bearings? What about the ones I get that have under 100k on them and show signs of leaking, can I send those postage due? (j/k) But the fact of the matter is that just because you haven't seen it, doesn't mean it doesn't happen. But the fact of the matter is that, when I customer request to change the waterpump at 60k I say that it is not necessary. But if they say that want to do it, I won't argue with them. I would rather do a timing belt job without a waterpump also, a lot less messy.

You left the car there, and told them to replace the seals, timing belt and water pump, and they did not replace it as requested? If that is the case I would go back to them and say that they did not do the work correctly. And they need to go back in there for the .5 hours labor and the cost of the part and fix it correctly. You did not ask them to diagnos if it needed a new waterpump you asked them to replace it. If they told you they were not going to do it, before the work was started, then not much you can do but go to a different repair shop that does listen to you. As for needed to be replaced at 105K, I say it is premature but defiantely a not out of the ordinary. I have seen them go bad with as little as 57k miles on them. I have also replace a handfull by 95k miles. I would say the average is about 130k-160k. With a handfull lasting out beyond 185k. But on my customer vehicles, I always at least give them the choice of replacing it at the 105k mark for the 2.5 and the 120k mark for the 2.2 motors. Paying the extra money now, it is better than a tow bill and the fustration, and definately is better than being stuck while you are out of town.

My father is a whiz with the Hatachi Carb, only problem is that with any rebuild, they always need to be adjusted and tinkered with. And if the person on the other end doesn't know what they are doing. Almost have to rebuild one, stick it on my car, and then take it off and send it out. Unfortuately that is not cost effective. Though he is good with Hatachi's he doesn't like rebuilding the Carter cuz he is not good at it.

the EA81 4spd Transmission is know for having a bad 3-4 gear shift fork. But yours just might be the snychros. Either way, sounds like might be time for a conversion. Richie

I don't know of a mechanic that doesn't take off the fans to do the timingbelts. Maybe they took off the radiator hoses? Then did not refill the the motor through the top radiator hose and created a bubble? I see it about once a month, mostly people working on their own vehicles:-p. Replacing the radiator problably solved the problem if they refilled it correctly. Just a stab in the dark. What is the check engine code. Did they clear it, after the replaced the radiator, etc.?

I have tried all the little things to fix the lifter ticking. We use to do a lot of Turbo Motors, would take them out. Clean them up. Put on better heads. clean the cam case, check the spring. Put on 100% new seals and gaskets. (all OEM cuz my father was working at the dealership) Put it back together with the old oil pump. And 4/5 of the vehicles we did still ticked. I would have to go back in and replace the oil pump. Ticking always went away. After those, always new oil pump. ( I HATE doing stuff more than once) I am just saying this works for me. I am in no way discounting what has worked for others. If you have a plugged oil passage, bad spring, dirty lifters, excessive leaks, even new oil pump will not help you. But when you start the vehicle up in the morning you should be getting up to 85 psi, and then it should drop down to 45, and then it should stay above 13psi. If it doesn't the oil pump is suspect. Recently, I have been able to get Atsugi Oil Pumps (Original Manufacter for Subaru) for $65 bucks, now I replace them with every timing belt I do above 120k on my own cars, weather they need it or not.

Very cool. Actually heard it from John, at 5:00. Ha! Kind of figured you were trying to do some rally-x since you didn't mention any sites to choose from, figured you had one in mind. Tell us Portland guys, if there is anything we can do to help.

I was going to call you back today but I got busy. No I do not have the tranny. The diffs should be different but swappable The biggest thing is that the plugs on the transmission will be different.

It is for the most part a EA82 Turbo Subaru, so it will have the same basic problems as a EA82T Wagon or Sedan. I have owned about 5 of them over the years, and the only problem off hand that I can think of is the dash sometimes showing you are overheating when actually you are not. But I think that some of the digital dashes on the 85-86 vehicles did that also.

So you would rather pay $105 for a Atsugi Oil Pump in a Subaru box, then $70 for a Atsugi Oil Pump in a Atsugi Box? Rings, main bearings, and stuff like that I would buy from Subaru, but other items can be gotten cheaper with the same quality.

If you are looking for parts locally I can hook you up. I can either get you factory (from Subaru) or get you the Manufacter parts (i.e a Atsugi Oil Pump) at a lower cost. Or get you something aftermarket like a Stone engine rebuild kit. BTW, would perfer that you decide what you want, get the money together, I gather up the parts and you come up and get them.

Looks sweet. That bad boy needs a tailfin though.

No after 84 they were all steel. Probably the original I would suggest if you haven't done so recently that you change your transmission fluid. They usually get gummed up because of microscopic pieces of dirt in the tranny fluid.

I also disagree with you mechanic. Subaru Legacy/Impreza/Forester waterpumps usually go out at 130-140k miles. If you plan on keeping the vehicle, I recommend replacing it at the 105k or 120k marks depending on engine type. I have seen them go out as early as 55k miles. The valve cover gaskets is probably a judgment call. The 2.5 and the 2.2 valve covers do leak. They will seep oil (ie not leaking on the ground but slight dusting on the valve cover) for a long period of time But if he can slow down the seeping by tighting it, and gaining you more time between valve cover replacements then more power to him. I agree that the valves do not have to be adjusted unless you have a problem with them. I also TOTALLY disagree with him about the coolant. These vehicles are prone to overheating, it is best to keep the coolant clean. That means not only keeping it under -34 degrees but also free of debre that accumulates over time. You do this by changing it every 3 years or 30k miles.

Get the Forester 2.5XT It is a 2.5 and it is Turbo-Charged. The turbo vehicles come from the Factory that way. It would take a aftermarket company to come up with the computer system to change an non-turbo to a turbo. There is no way a dealer would do it for you. And yes, then the warrantee would be void.