charles_thomas

Just a thought, but have you actually hotwired across the starter to confirm it is getting enough power? You mentioned jiggling the keys starting it. The ignition switch can wear out like you staed. Especially if you have heavy keys or other items on the key ring. Sometimes the contact poont inside the switch wears and only gives partial connection, enough to click, bit not turn over. It is very simple to check, and if it turns over or starts, will eliminate the solenoid, starter and such as being broken immediately. just dont electrocute yourself.

32/36 will work with either. You will Have to run slightly smaller jets on the EA71. The intake/carb adapter will be different as well. As always, Don't get the 2 piece adapters. It may require a little digging, and some research through the forums here, but there are 1 piece options avilable for all of the EA carb mounting patterns. The price is close enough that they are not worth the eventual leaks that will arise from using a 2 piece adapter. I personally have been running the Weber-Holley 5210 with a manual choke kit without issues for years. I have had them on several kit-cars, a Fiat, a Toyota and others. Holley is mostly the same parts as its 32/36 progressive Weber counterpart, half the purchase price, and way more reliable than the knockoff Webers floating around pretending to be the real deal. The one I have in my 77 was on the orginal EA71, when I dropped the EA81 in, I just changed the jets and bolted the new adapter on. Haven't had any issues after tuning. When switching between Dizzys, might be worth double checking your dwell. Also that the adavnce curve is in line with your other tuning. Not sure what the differences exactly are between the different dizzy models (I'm sure someone else here can tell ya) but I do know there are several different advance curves as you change the Dist. That can cause a flat spot as well without a retune of the carb.

Bummpppp.

five! (5) OEM 1977 Subaru Coupe 4x140 Steel wheels, First gen ( EA71 ) 4.5" backspacing harder to find smoother steel pattern. 4 are 175 70 13 Toyo Eclipse All Season tires, Spare painted flat black, 155 85 13 Toyo Eclipse, matched tread spare. All have Very good tread, see pictures. 250 OrBestOffer, Located in Sandpoint, ID. Discount for forum members, better discount if you want them for a coupe. https://spokane.craigslist.org/wto/d/5-subaru-wheels175-70r13-toyos/6338105085.html

Sold sold sold sold. thank you for your interest

Fun project I had thought about was to use a the supercharged V6 with TH350 behind it and a full box frame to prevent twisting with a Jaguar independent rear. Would give 4 wheel discs, and only slightly wider. But that for a drag racer moreso than a street car.

My experience is that They look the same, but they backspacing is shallower. I found out when I tried to put wagon wheels that were on a late 80s junkyard Wagon, they hit on the rear. Had to go looking for some shallower wheels, wasn't super hard way back then, happened accross a first gen brat with these wheels. but I had to start taking a tape measure. Its more obvious with the standard Steelies than the wagon wheels, they appear to have even more backspacing differences, with a third option that I cant seem to track any consistent placement on. Basically ~4.5 for first gen, ~5 or ~5.5 on the later models. Ill be selling my steelies once I have a chance to knock the dust off them.

I finished my 6-lug conversion. No longer need these. For Sale 4 OEM 1978 Subaru 4x140 wagon wheels, First Gen ( EA71 ) offset. Will fit 70's -90's GL, DL, Brat, Wagon, and Loyale, all 4 lug subarus. Coated black, 175 70 13 studded General Arctic winter tires. 2 are excellent condition, 2 are slightly used, see pictures. 200 obo, Located in Sandpoint, ID. I will likely be selling my stock Steelies from my 77 formerly FWD Coupe as well. See craigslist advert, or message here. https://spokane.craigslist.org/wto/d/first-gen-subaru-wagon-wheels/6335274090.html

Could be alignment. Acceleration can shift the front up and then down enough to allow bump steer. Pretty common on a vehicle with less than new suspension, especially if the toe in was set with the wheel crooked, or hasn't been set in a while. Fairly easy to check too. As always, start with the simple stuff and work from there.

On one of my Brats, I had a leak near the firewall that just happened to funnel the rain on the wiring harness plug perfectly, causing it to short and stop functioning until it dried. I also have had that happen to the ignition stuffs above the fender. Bother are 1st gens. I agree with Jono, hit it with a hose. I would recommend starting in one spot, and keep turning the key on. If it works still Move the hose and do it again, see if you can narrow down where exactly the water is causing the issue.

Depends on what you are looking for. For a drop in stock for stock the subaru is advantageous. To benefit, you will need to be able to install the water cooling (radiator, run tubing, ensure air to fans, etc). The EJ is a good engine. But it is fuel injected, and runs with a computer that you will need the wiring and harness for as well. You can install an older carbed engine, but will still be doing adjustments there, and not much power over vw (~87hp total). Other than that, you can start modifying the subaru to get more power, but... In all honesty, compaired to a properly done VW it Almost isn't worth it. Almost. You can get the electronic ignition and fuel injection for a vw cheaper than the whole swap, and is just as reliable. Heavy mods to a VW are notably cheaper than to a subaru, and more proven to last. To get the 200hp in a vw, its an easy to find jug swap and a hot cam, maybe an intake change. A subaru needs a tear down and a mix and match of engine parts as well as computer tuning (if applicable) and heavy head machining work. The biggest factors to me were heat, because the Vw is aircooled, so stop and go traffic is a stinker, but you can run oil collers and upgrade fans, And for the older subarus, it is finding the parts. They exist, but are not as cheap, or readily available. Hit up google and start looking at price tags. Dont forget switching to a water boxer means cutting your car, Include that in your accounting process. Either is a good choice, dont get me wrong. I love my subarus, and they can run just as long as a VW, and take a damn good beating and still run. but if you just want reliability and easy to find parts, for the money, modernization of your existing VW might be a better choice. Thats just my opinion, as someone who drives both cars regularly.

Yup. You're gonna hit 'those people' here a bit. Dont let them discourage you from posting!

That is awesome! Cant help with parts for it, but I am sure someone will step in. I just wanted to express the appreciation.

I've used a different bushing there before, works if you get it set right. Make sure the bolt isn't boring out the hole at the ends (13). Also the small pin at 16 can get loose over time. Basically, these transmissions tend to wear every hole they can a little bit. And it adds up to a lot of play.

As someone who has two first gen subarus, (one running an EA82 rear) parked in my shop, right next to a vw kit car, a plethora of parts and an empty VW pan, I can say with assurances, The vw is physically capable of more travel with less fab work, and easier to find/cheaper to find parts. If the OP has a bunch of VW and subaru parts floating around, that price tag is a lot less, especially if you want a small lift, just install the whole shebang on a sq tube frame under the car.

Not sure why I hadn't thought of that mysekf. It sure would allow for a lot cheaper and more plentiful options. If you decide to go for it, post a breakdown. I for one, would love to see that.

Post a sound clip when you get it done, that ought to be...interesting

Was the engine still running when the lights came on, or just freewheeling? And was it running hot? Any odd noises or vibration, or lack of power? Did it clunk and die, just die, or act like the key got turned off? Do the lights and electronics still work, or is everything dead? Give us some more info, please.

Well... That escalated quickly.

That would be awesome! I have a 5 speed drill press i use for the other holes. I was under the impression that the standard BiMetal hole saws couldn't cut 3/8 steel plate? If it is doable, It should would save me one heck of a hassle! Might try it out, I can't think of anytbing I might need the saw on if it goes awry... Might try this Tonight. Thank you.

I only had to fabricate 1 part, the strut top spacer, and did have to cut and modify the Lower A arm attachment, as seen in picture. It lined up much better than expected. If anyone has interest in this, I can write up a breakdown.

Tie Rods done. The EA82 items, do In Fact bolt up to the EA71. All I have left is to find someone near Sandpoint, ID that can blow the two 4 inch holes in the steel plate for the strut spacer bottoms. Anyone have a torch and want to help?

Just for a giggle, "Can't" isn't in my dictionary. Here are some pictures, works so far, have to finalize and weld in the next week or two. Only thing I dont have yet is the Tie rods done... Mostly due to rust sticking the ends on.

Not sure which carb adapter plate you are running, But I had perviously used a slightly cheap one piece adapter, and the butterfly on the secondaries hit the adapter just barely when opening them. It would cause them to stick occasionally. When I opened them with my fingers, I had enough force to open them, bit the cable didnt. Acted exactly like the cable wasn't moving far enough randomly. Drove me nuts until I figured out what was actually causing it. Took a file to the inner edge of the adapter and didnt have a problem after that. May not be the case with yours, but it might be worth looking at.

My Subarus have a manual controlled flap, not a vacuum-powered one. Would that work, or are you specifically needing a vacuum one?