bluedotsnow

I have read that the only sensible thing to do when an svx dumps its trans is to put a wrx 5 speed in it 10 secounds on google rendered this link http://www.smallcar.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29919

another 6" lift?

oops found the write up THANKS!

some day I'm going to paint small parts of my car with truck bed liner, there are several ware spots like on the hood near the side mirror that I plop my boots down on after hiking to stretch. today I buttoned up the rear end of my L to OB conversion, my rear struts were sagging lower than my front. many trips to pick n pull but now I know how to get the whole kit steering linkage, way bars, spacers, struts, dog bone mount... if anyone in California wants to outback a regular legacy I can be of assistance! I was able to find some used kyb gr2 struts I compared them to stock outback struts and they seem a little better!

OH GEEZ! forgot the OB rear cross member and sway bar for my OB suspension...... pulling today, going to be one raked "rat" rod after this project. I want to do the front but my friend only has so much patience and his engine hoist is being used atm. according to him its like a 6 hour job to change the front cross member. any advice from people who have gone converted L wagons to outback wagons much appreciated. no not the plastic bits......

Word I have a friend with a gl wagon fat lift and swampers no brake upgrades... All im saying is it can be an issue but your right know your car! Obviously someone with swampers and small brakes shouldnt tail gate... Just something to keep in mind ceramic pads would most likely make up for large tires. Im not into retail and am pro junk yard! Reuse reduce reuse! I snagged a set of kybgr2 shocks/springs from a 98ob limited wagon, half off at picknpull yesterday, $15 pershock after core return. My 96 250k+ L shocks are sagging in the back.

I have read that when larger wheels and tired are used the brakes need to be upgraded for safety. ob's have dual piston caliper in front think larger single in rear.

has anyone swapped a standard L front bumper with an OB and or limited? 95-96 legacy and used a 98 bumper? fast lift stuff can't tell if the mounting is exactly the same but but its all B11 body style is the uni-body and mounting the same across all years including face lift? I know wiring is a whole other matter especially for headlights!

got some kyb gr2 shocks from a 98 ob limited wagon today just one of the bolts was stuck on ended up buying the knuckle at least everything was half off! can't wait to cut that bolt off and get those on my L wagon as my rear is sagging from metal recycling. one of the rubber pieces to the top hat of the rear was pushed out a bit but not cut up would it be worth replacing?

@!#$ rabbit hole! so after B.A.R. ruled that I should at least get a full refund of labor costs at winters auto they only had a small portion so I guess this is going to court

thats a tough choice but IMO you made the right one!

geez talk about unhooking a bra! at least you didn't use your teeth! sorry about the miss information my 93 impreza didn't seem to have the same design or maybe a previous owner just it up so that the bolts were the only mount points, may it R.ust I.nto P.ieces it served me well.

did you get the two smaller bolts each end but the wheel wells? on each side I believe there is one screw holding the bumber to the body. check opposedforces.com/parts if you need a referance diagram

cheers general! my thoughts exactly. thanks for the info on slight tug I'm still getting used to the awd as the majority of the year I have had the car its been off the road. many many thanks!

first of all I can say from personal experience when you totally remove any RWD from an AWD subaru it will eat front cv axles! I imagine this can be avoided by using axles and possibly axle stubs from a FWD car as they are stronger. these cars suspension were not designed to be FWD and I could very much feel the instability of the rear end. when I was having problems I went from having the solenoid fail with some atf pressure to the rear section to NO pressure after winters auto left a gasket and backing plate off. I did notice a difference and my front cv axles were torn apart within a few weeks! a friend also pointed out that when in this bungled FWD mode the car would downshift more than normal due to slight differences in wheel ration. if you want to do this mod do it all the way and use a FWD ECU and TCU I think the TCU is the same just no duty c wiring and or circuitry this means you wont have a code thrown constantly due to an AWD TCU lack of duty c signal. conversely I have heard of some people making the 4eat strictly RWD but I gotta say I bet that eats rear cv axles and or clutch packs unless you do the pin mod and lock your clutch pack at all times with metal pins(not advised). be nice to your subie, maintain and appreciate its AWD it will save your life when a FWD car will kill you!

I believe to remove the whole thing there are 4 very large bolts same as front bumper but they are hidden taking apart the bumper never works just remove the whole thing from the metal mounts! I once had to get a license plate bulb and cover from an impreza for a friend, I found that removing the bumper from a junk yard car was the only way to get at the back to unscrew nuts from bolts allowing the light to come off with the bumper attached this was impossible for me to do especially without mechanic grade tools.

Bar said they would be visiting winters auto by Thursday so I should have a verdict soon. if they think I'm going to take just a refund for labor they are sadly mistaken although I would like to keep this out of court for several reasons including the BAR rep. it took almost 4 weeks for them to get to my complaint and would have taken longer if not for a separate case that almost went to court but did not. these guys must be swamped with complaints so I have to tie them up for longer than need be as many more people need fair resolutions. someone made a comment at the start of this thread about myself wanting my car fixed for free, this is just not the case! not only did I myself identified and fixed the problem(thanks GD) but after a second visit to winters auto they told me my problem was in the rear diff!?!?! I'm NOT looking for all the money I can get out of these guys but only what is fair for parts that were damaged further like CV axles and new clutch pack. I mean really its not like I went out and bought two new axles I'm asking for compensation for junk yard parts. it seems that when I crank the wheel all the way to get into a tight parking spot on either side especially after driving long distances there is a slight bind that seems to be only temporary. I know my pressure plate is out of spec by at least half a MM if its brought into spec would this make the binding worse?

you should move the switches to the dash somewhere and possibly put a fighter pilot toggle guard on it dogs will be dogs, in addition to blowing a fuse wouldn't that drain your battery?

I have heard nothing but bad things about the ebay obdII adapters. what software are you using? if you have an android phone try using an app called torque, its in the google play store with a free and paid version. it has never let me down and has many options to configure communication with your car. torque automatically selects the best protocol, and in test mode will give you a web link to any trouble code it finds. I'm also using a Kiwi PLX with bluetooth which is ironically made in AU and I would highly recommend. I'm going to go re torque my knock sensor and tell a friend about this as he has had a knock sensor code for some time now but rarely looks up a torque spec on anything.

WIN! correct geometry is vital! I was hoping to see a lift kit on your product page but was very impressed with the skid plate and bar! I drooled over the intake but have a MAF engine, sobs so MAP intake for me. what brand of lift do you have on your OBS? any recommendations for a lego?

fancy pansy!?! lol its just a more stable fuel that ignite less prematurely. if your pistons fuel "wad" gets "busted" before TDC Top Dead Center of the stroke your waisting fuel and may be causing damage to your engine. the ECU adjusts engine timing to compensate but...... since switching to premium I have noticed I am seeing and clearing a p0420 code much less frequently than when running regular octane. as I understand it premium leaves more of a residue so it has the potential to clog injectors faster.

MPG calculation does not lie I was getting like 20-25 city/highway just yesterday on the way to a hiking trip to tahoe I did 304 miles on on 10.9 gallons of premium. averaging 70mph with cruse control, 20 miles of off roading, and about 5 stops along the way. 27.88 mpg! next time I fill up I'm going to just use mid grade to see if I get same results then back to regular for a comparison.... if I see a change I'm going to put a new stock subaru air filter in run regular and compare. will post results.

engine hoist or shop crane - priceless! please santa may I have one!

I have had decent luck with lucas stop leak. back up oil filter??? can you take a picture of this. if I were in your situation as I have been before I would dump the maximum amount of stop leak in your current oil run engine for a few days then get a lighter weight oil like a 5/30 or 0/20 drain fill and start your engine DO NOT DRIVE just let it idle for a while 10-30 minutes. I was told that as long as you don't put the engine under load its ok to run a light weight oil through it. this should clean out some varnish and sludge. the refill with your choice of oil and filter with some stop leak. please let the subaru forum gods quell my post if I'm off base here.

thanks partially to general disorder I was able to bring my 250k+ lego back from the dead! PROPER maintenance is KEY!!!!!! and my story is proof that even if you trust a shop and watch them do the work they can still screw stuff up! if you want it done right do it yourself along with obsessively read and check your FSM! just watch a video about head gasket torque procedure if your skeptical. torque it right every time! subaru's are very reliable and if you only repair whats broken the rest usually lasts for a LONG TIME. my goal with my impreza was 300k.... I'm hoping to take my lego to 400k, granted I recently replaced the whole timing and pump shebang