kingbobdole

AS far as location goes. You'll notice the car has 2 radiator caps. one drivers side on the rad, and the other pass is on the top front of the motor. If you look at the "coolant manifold", right next to the pass side rad cap, theres the temp sensor. Hope thats not confusing.....:-\

Is it this low?

OMG that is the coolest thing EVER! Its like a vanagon and an old Toyota van where put into a cloning machine and that thing came out. WOW! thats cool. Didn't you say that thing had some tiny motor....1.2 litre?! wow, thats small. WOW, soo cool. About the 360 van, I'd love one of those too, they are schweet. BTW never ask anyone who ownes one if their refridgerator is running...... it doesn't make them happy.

Nah, the ER27 sucks..... oh wait. Anyhoo, according to Mr. manual the ER27 produces 145 hores @ 5200 rpms and 156 fl/lbs or TQ @ 4000 rpms. Mmmm torque. The spyder intake EA82 N/A in the xts runs 97 HP @5200 and 103 fllbs tq @ 3200. Thats the MPFI EA82 with the spyder intake... I thinks. My books an 89, not sure if that makes any difference. Ohhh, did you want that in Newton Meters?

Thanks for the motor code..... More compact huh? Wonder if it would fit in my 6.

Uhhh, The EG33 is the SVX motor. Its friggin HUGE! I'm intrested in the motor code if anyone knows it fer sure. Thanks,

I would say, style, price, and MPG, ohh and maybe speed. I think (probably wrong) the forester is slightly cheaper, slightly lighter which makes for slightly better MPG and speed. Some prople also don't like wagons, but small suvs are good. Also, maybe need. Why drive a surbaban when all you need is a focus? ok, bad example

And, Hey are they ever going to update that front end to the newer style? ... or is the baja the red headed step child of the subbi line? I had also heard the sales were poor, are they gonna shot this dog or what? Phil

I'll throw my crack pot theroires out there so you all can yell at me. Why don't you just get a ea82T and a N/A header and combine. You could probably(I have no clue, its a damn guess) bolt the two headers on, put the turbo one on the side the 4 cylinders dump out, then the regular header on the other side. Use the 82Ts stock uppipe and then join the two later in the exaust. Yeah it wouldn't spin up as fast as it would with the 6 powering it, but ehh, its a small turbo, how much boost do you need. Plus its 9.5:1 compression, that'll do for spinning it up faster than the turbo 4, and my old turbo 4 spooled up quicker than a wrx. Yeah, its kinda dumb but it could(may be) be achieved using stock parts. Phil

Hey, since we are no longer "excluding"... When I was taking my old 87.5 XT Turbo to sell it to a guy (EA82) It would barely...barely get to 100 mph. It took quite a few miles, but I found the digi dash would go over 99. Right after I got my 6 rebuilt, well a little after anyway. I got it up to 125 with the windows down. Rolled the windows up and it would go 140, redlined, in fifth. My VW buddy got me a sticker for the dash. It's empi and reads something like "Warning: do not roll down windows in speed in excess of 120 mph." or something like that. Phil

What I really love about checker is when I go looking for parts for my XT-6. "Is it turbo or non-turbo?" .....I used to try and correct them that there was no turbo, but to no avail. Now I just tell them its turbo. Phil T-11hrs

Hey.... so hows all bringing what? I'm bringing my XT-6. My buds gonna bring his early 87 XT-Turbo, and a guy rick off of the xt6.net is going to bring his xt turbo. What else is coming? Phil

Wait.... did you say paint? Phil

I think that the front wheel is cooler. Hey, at least I didn't put an aluminum wing on it, cuz I was thinking about it. Anyway do you know how much of a pain it is to post a pic here? dam. Phil

You might head over to http://www.xt6.net and look and see. I personally agree that an XT-6 turbo would A. not be had cheaply as the cars are old and just keeping up with their abilities of breakyness is not cheap. and B. probably shouldn't be tried as it will not last. and it would be poor for rally x with the uber lag. I can't remember who exactly, but one of the guys has a supercharger on his, but I don't know much about it. Last I heard he needed a hood as the low line of the stock one did not yeild enough room for the super charger. Anyway if you wanted to you could get a XT-turbo as there are many more of them and more engine parts available. You can also make the turbo just as fast as the 6, but you will not be able to match the 6's low end with out tons of work. Phil

So..... Maybe I'm not reading this right but... It seems that you would say that any changes to a car that allow more air in is not effective. So I put the vented Turbo hood on my XT-6, does that hurt it some how? I get the jist, but just to be a pain... are you saying that when Subaru designs a car they do it 100% perfect and no changes can be made to improve on their designs? If they are so good why do xts have such heat problems with their brakes? I don't really disagree with you, they do a hell of a lot of testing, but then again they have to work within a budget and projected price of a car. As far as the ricer vs racer thing goes, there may not be a clear visable line. I think you just have to get the whole picture, the feel the texture and the taste of the car. Say you see a Honda S2000 mostly stock sitting in a parking lot with a large metal wing. Instant ricer. Take the same car and have the guy rip it around a track at high speed. You get a different picture of the car. It also depends on people and what they like. Like the WRX I think it looks nice and fast, not a crap box. If he hadn't painted the body kit, not even with duplicolor, I would say ricer. May be my line is where its not complete. Like my car right now is more of a ricer, its fugly. Once I get it painted I would like it to be more racer. Phil

Ok, I started this fire, so heres some gas. Why am I doing this? Well, as some may know my car is pretty ricer for a ru. I didn't paint it, I didn't lower it, I baught it that way officer, It's a special edition. Agree with some. 91loyale I agree, whats with all the civic hang-ups? I drive a civic for a living, a 97 hatch CX with 240k on it. 100% stock. I pulled out the intake resinator as a farce in order to get people to race my civic to make my job more.... interesting. I must say for a CX its quite quick and can take similar cars in its class ie. older neons, saturns, cavilers and the like. Also, cheap, 4 cylinder, fairly easy to get mods for and widley distrubited..... kinda ... like .... subarus. gravelRX I personally disagree. Personally mind you, In my lowered yellow XT-6 thats loud mind you I have only gotten 1 BS ticket (no front plate). I might also point out that they were doing a "sting" as there was a lower primered body kited eclipse with green turns also pulled over. After inspecting my car that all he had. It did not break the noise barrier to his dismay. I have been pulled over about 5 times for various things in my Stock Focus which I no longer own. Got tickets for speeding at 1 in the morning, got tickets for keeping up with traffic, gotten pulled over for tint, and the XTs darker! SubaSkeet I also kinda disagree with one part where you say imports only (kinda) I personally believe that the new Cavilers (sp?) from Chevy with them body kits are very "ricer" stock, and the new saturns, and they put body kits on stock Foci now too and those are domestics. Domestic ricers are out there. Any way my personal thought is the reason that there are some many so called "ricer haters" on Subaru boards is not jelousy, but unavailability. I mean they made 1 body kit EVER for the XT and they stopped about 10 years ago. Its hard to make a subaru Ricer with out customizing things, plus we have to worry about keeping these things running right, they are old. Ok, enought rant for now, but 1 more question now. Answer this honestly now. How many of us Ricer dislikers out there that own subbis have either A. have an STi sticker on their car, or B have thought about it. Is that not ricer? Sti stickers don't make it so. I'm gonna go get that fire truck now.,..... Phil

Hey, Check this out if you have intrest in the 360s... http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/5360/main.html I think the vans are the coolest, my dealer up here has one on display. Anyway considering the years, the site says that Subaru made them in 1958, but they were not imported till 1968. As I recall as well I have seen pics of some of the late 80s ones too, but they are different and may not be the same car. Phil

*Dons bullet-proof vest* Ok, don't shoot, yet..... Here's my question that I asked my friend a few days ago and we could not define a clear cut answer. Whats the differance between a "ricer" and a "performance import car"? I mean there are two sides to me at least and they line is taste. Take say that SVX, it had an aluminum wing, with the stock spoiler mind you, racing seats, front body dam. I mean at first glance, from the front I thought it looked ok, but then I got to the inside and back, and his story. The other side say like that WRX. I really wouldn't consider it "ricer" as it doesn't say "Uber fast" on the windshield, or have a large aluminum wing. The body kit is also painted and looks professional. Not all cars can be lifted and tough. Not everyone wants to drive something thats stock. Sooo, wheres the line? Phil

if you dont mind... jf1ax8422kc303315 jm1fc3516j0107897 Thanks kingbobdole@hotmail.com

Wow, Your message to them was quite.... harsh. Not to take this thread slightly off topic but.... how many years were brats made? I've heard that they made turbo brats factory in the mid 80s, is that right? I donno, I mean I too love brats, but I really didn't think that they were that popular in their time. I totally agree that Subaru makes poor choices on release dates. You guys ever read up on the start of Subaru with the 360? Makes you wonder how Subaru ever survived in America at all. Phil

I..... saw... the...svx... I cried, really. What the hell was he thinking? Phil

If you know "how to turn a wrench" why not just take a few days off. You know get your parts ahead of time, get someone willing to machine the head in a day or two, and then rip it apart your self. It would save you some bling and its fun for the whole family. Phil

Since were all posting engine pics.... Anyway about that filter... as one can see I also have one that I got at checker. I just cleaned mine with the k&n kit and discovered something distrubing. The "filter" is made of "egg crate" padding material. Also did you make or buy some sort of adapter for it? Phil learn how to use your scanner day

Wow, You learned something didn't you? Don't you hate it when that happens? Anyway, all kidding aside, that really stinks. To answer your questions in order, kinda. 1) Is there a way of pulling the remaining bolt thread out of the camshaft housing? 1. This depends on if its sticking out or not there are 2 things you can do. If its flush, or sticking out, thats easy. get a dremel with a cut off disc and grind a slot in the bolt. Then simply use a screw driver to pull the screw out. If its in a little ways you will have to get an easy out. Basically its a reverse threaded tap and screw. you drill a hole in the center of the bolt, tap that hole reversely, then tighten the reversed screw into it and that loosens the screw you screwed it into. 2) Can I re-thread the stripped hole in the camshaft housing? 2. This rethreading depends on how bad you stripped it. Once I also learned something, don't pull the plugs on a hot aluminum motor. anyway I really didn't strip them, just cross threaded them a little. I chased the threads with a tap and it worked. Yours sounds worse like you worked on it a little. You might have to helicoil it which is fun, and mostly the "right" way. Now if you have a majority of them down and only one needs to be set you can do it the "ghetto" way. clean the hole and rough it up. *puts on armor* Get the bolt clean it, grease it and...... cover it in JB weld *ducks* shove the bolt into the hole with out the cover on. Let the JB weld dry, then carefully remove the bolt. That should leave threads in the hole, but careful tightening it back on then you put the cover back on, don't break it. 3) If I need to replace the camshaft housing, where is the best place to get one? Find a local junk yard, pick and pull types are the cheapest. New ones from ru are a bazillion dollars. 4) Can I buy a torque wrench that goes down to 35-50 inch-pounds? Goto Sears. I've got one thats on a 3/8s drive and I think I got it for this very purpose, or maybe something else head related when I rebuilt mine. 5) When disconecting the A/C Compressor to take of timing belts, do I need to discharge the system first and who can do that the cheapest? Ok, One why are you doing this? You can remove the compressor and move it aside. Two, YES 100% This thing is R-12, but tell me if you do it, I'll get bank from the Gov and you get to pay "SUPER FINE" Tm. I personally wouldn't bother discharging it, removing it, recharging it. It will probably cost you somewhere in the $400-$800 depending on where you do it. Where to do it? Anywhere you can find to do it. Not a lot of shops still work on R-12s due to expense. Well, good luck, have fun and make sure that is clean before you put in the new gasket. clean the cam carrier where it sit and the covers with a nice clean soft cloth. Also watch passing wires, I got one in mine and didn't notice till I got like 3 bolts in. Phil