ivans imports

all mising the very first step comp test then start to diagnose problems if comp is low will never run good my gess plugs and wires or burt valve or low comp

if you look in your left over harness parts you may find the same diodes they use them in ac or use the other curcut in your damaged one is the same

just use the green and black wire to turn on the factory feul pump realy and do not need legacy one just swap out the signal wires

funny my 79 brat i just restored has a engine from apolo motors to funny has the same tag on valve cover where is that engine shop any ideas ?

one note replace the spring clip in back of fork it gets worn and alows the fork to wiggle around lots of lube to is commenly overlooked make shure the pivot ball has not worn to far into the fork

just keep geting them 01 outback 02 forester 01 outback 99 forester 99 impreza 02 impreza 99 legacy 02 legacy 98 outback 03 impreza all 420 codes in last two weeks i have not been able to track the problem down cats are ok o2 sensers ok cant find what all theese cars have in commen starting to think its a problem with the calabration of subarus ecus to many cars with same codes and no problems any ideas boys ? is driving me and my clientele nuts

has a nitros foger in the intake i had to small of a pill in the feul side was running 0.28 nos and 0.34 feul was to lean have turned it down to 0.22 nos and 0.32 feul. But i think the piston may have had a problem i did a comp test before engine was run and was 150 150 145 120 the 120 is the one that failed the new one is 155 and the hole was not so nice i think the piston may have been cracked or scratched anyway runs good now race on saterday with a tough truck event ( NO MERCY ) for the craper !

well it has one stock piston one #1 hole so we can compare and see witch one breaks first anyway if there was any doubt about the balance of theese engines 3 of one kind and one of enuther and defanatly not the same wheight runs very smooth seems to be ok was some defanate detanation damage i think that the oposed motor cant handle the nitros the top side ran lean and bottom side ran ritch

[attach][attach][attach][attach]10050[/attach] [attach]10051[/attach] [attach]10052[/attach][/attach][/attach][/attach] ran lean on the top side and rich on the bottom side

broke the piston between the ring lands is what always happens oh can see some of the passes on you tube crapanator vs mud shark NWMRA Quesnell bc the fastest cars in my class are a big block with 2 stage nitrios and a 383 with 2 stage nitros gess 800- 900 hp is a bitt hard to catch up with 2.5 at 250 -280 hp but not that far off if i could just get the pistons to hold togther i will get some pics of the engine when i take it apart it has comp of 150 150 145 and 80 at least i know where to look

looks better but comparabble to the wisco one i will look into theese i have to do somthing breaks a piston every race i still think that oposed motors may struggle with nitros i dont think they burn even enuff hot spots the piston i havent got the engine apart yet to see how bad it failed has 150 150 145 and 80 on#1 will try and get some pictures of the piston when i get it out thanks gd for the link there may be some vidio on you tube crapanator vs mud shark NWMRA at Quesnell BC

ah thiss is the beauty of learning take off whatever you like it eather works or it dosent i have striped most stuff of every carb as par that most extra stuff is for emitions not for performance or driveabilaty as far as i know you just need vacume advance and the vent to charcoal can and heatriser the rest you should be able to get rid of

i cut down one of those harness for race car was very time consuming but ran fine was many wires and extra ecus dident need the trans ecu or dash cluster had to disabble the alarm engine kill and have all the senser inputs i do still have working harness on ground if had qustions were things go took many many hours to build i could not find wire harness diagrams good thing i know all the wires and saved whole harness so i could identify where each input whent

97 % of my work is fixing the jobs that were just done gessing is not a solution and diagnosing by changing parts is a absolut last resort knowing what to look for and how to properly diagnose problems is key mind you as a customer you have to ask the right questions have you worked on subarus before ? do you have the right manuals and tools and diagnostics. I get alot of shops call me ( in over there head ) dayly and many subarus come to me in a box from other shops and i sell many parts to shops that are not the problem and i know they are just gessing at whats wrong i whould put my faith in somone who deals with only subaru like GD or shawn but genaric shops are just that generic shops mabee good for gms but not subarus

i need to brain storm the forum i need to find a stronger piston for race buggy i broke a forged wiseco piston at race thiss weekend I thought they whould be the toughest pistons avalible mabee i'm wrong anyone have any ideas what other pistons i could use i was thinking of having some made with only one comp ring to try and get more materail between the rings always fail between the 2nd comp ring and the oil ring the piston is very thin there and weak was running 12 psi boost and 50 wet shot of nitros anyone have some ideas for me and i need one used wisco forged piston for 2.5 sti 09 if anyone just happens to have one

so whent to mud race on weekend pulled a 4.780 and a 4.810 and broke a hole on 3rd pass just cant get a piston to hold up folded a forged wiseco piston was making hudge power im starting to wonder if the subaru engines cant handle nitros because of having the pistons on there sides i'm thinking the feul is pooling on bottom side of pistons and not burning even. Anyway the suspention is incredabble it came right off the ground at the start and planed across perfectly just need to get the motor to hold up

sent out the touque converter yesterday goimg to make it a 4000rpm high stall that should kick it in the pants

i have one here with 380000kms on it chain is dead silent and 0 wear on it

i had thiss recently on a 2001 legacy is a problem with that year of mass air flow was not that good the car whould hesatae surge lug and just not get any feul changed the mass airflow and fixed the standard ones were realy not good it took me forever to find one and 3 bad ones before got one good one

i put the ea82 ohc carb on the 1600 have to hog out the hole a bitt and retap the bolt studs out a bitt but dam that carb works good have it on my 77 wagon way stronger than my 80 stock brat by probly 10-15 hp the ea82 carb has masive secondarys

dextron 2 updates to dextron 3 same same whant it to work realy good use honda factory atf best atf iv'e seen

rings its burning oil on #4 the burnt oil builds up and creates carbon on valve that gets hot and overheats the valve most burnt valve engines i see have been burning oil on that hole for a while change rings and problem will go away

i have bins of ecus but all time favorte is the 89-90 legacy na standard trans ecu dumb as a post just feul and spark non of that diagnostic or limp home crap i find it works realy good in turbo app i can put in ad ons and ecu dosent know

boy the buggy could use some ecu help higher redline and more feul and more feul and more feul lol anyway can you change the injector pulse width ? i tryed some injectors that were to big whould like to use them and slow down the pulse width so can get more feul to the engine a'm running a 550 whould like to run the 800s i have but is just to mutch for stock ecu

the problem i am talking about will not let key shut off all the way it stays on position off of on so you cant turn key all the way to get it out if cant be fixed easyaly i remove the key interlock soiliniond from bottom of ig swicth is incapslated in lead and held on with two screws can be unpluged and removed warning thiss will let car shut off in gear so care should be taken to make shure in park evry time