coloradosubarules

Call DAS transport. They take care of everything. They are the best in the biz. Here is the link: http://www.dasautoshippers.com/ I hope this helps.

A bit hostile are we? I wasn't knocking you you arse! I see why Nasa is in the crapper now. Were you not doing your job during the Challenger 7 or columbia flight. Nasa= Need Another Seven Astronauts, Need Another Shuttle Also.

A friend of mine has one of those. He bougt it at a police auction for $1200.00 I must say that it is a super nice 1994 wagon.

I know being an MCSE isn't like being a rocket scientist but I make 75K a year and drive a $700.00 1990 Legacy wagon. I bought it from the salvation army. The money went to a good cause and I got a good little car. If I had $7K kicking around I would buy my kids some sweet toys and buy another legacy or two. Maybe even a used impreza or outback if the price was right. I am not saying that people can't spend their money however they see fit...I just think the person who posted this thread and the other people on here are few and far between. I hope your $7K got you a sweet setup, radar detector and a lifetime supply of admission to your local track ....where else can you use all that power? Passing someone? In a hurry to get that parking space at the mega-low mart? Those were my two cents. I am sure you wish I just kept it in my pocket.

I was close....Give me credit.

Talk about having too much time on ones hand. I think when I get bored I am going to have my house weighed. Then I can move it to someplace not so frickin hot and hummid...and no hurricanes.

In-car engine: Impact socket, breaker bar and a large pipe to go over said breaker bar. Put the socket on the breaker bar and put that on the bolt, position the pipe with breaker bar under the drivers side of the vehicle near front of tire...crank over car in SMALL intervalls untill bolt is free. Be carefull! It works but is not the best way. There is another way to do it and it has something to do with a hole on your transmission but the way I said worked for me on more than one occasion. First thing tommorow morning (or tonight if that works for you) go behine wal-mart and get a palet they are throwing away (not a blue chep palet) get it home and put the engine on it. Strap it down with ratchet straps and then call some buddys to come stand on the pallet. With the object in the cylinder and tons of anchorage.....that bolt is as good as off.

It's not hard at all. You need to first disconnect power from the battery. You should find some screw or bolts on the back of the steering wheel that hold the airbag into place. Remove those and you will notice the airbag pulls out. Once out a few inches you will have to disco a wireharness conecting the wheel to the bag. Once apart, place the bag someplace safe and out of the way. If you wish to keep your original key then you are going to want to remove the plastic shrouding on the steering column and remove the ignition switch. Under the dash you will find more wire harnesses attached to the steering column. Disco those and remove the column. Install of new column is reverse of disco. Hope this helps. If you are going to keep your wheel you are going to need a steering wheel puller. Greg

There are bushings in the steering that go bad. Could be a CV joint. I don't have either one of those I could sell you either. You are on your own for those...hehe.

If you put something inside the cylinder that is not so destructive (block of wood, something brass, something metal wrapped in something soft such as a towel) then you could use a breaker bar and impact socket (and someone or something to hold the engine down) to take that puppy right off. If it would be easy for you you could also use the chain method mentioned. I'm sure you will figure it out. You are a smart person....you drive a Subaru!

It's a brace for the unibody, holds up your dash (somewhat) and is a safety feature. Alot of cars have this feature. Volvo has them all over the place. There are two in every door they make. If they put one behind your seat you could use it as an anchor for your five point harness. Once again, a safety device. Hope this helps. Wear your seatbelt. Greg

You could use a cutting torch or plasma cutter. I too wondered how I would go about taking that bolt out of a donor engine. I do not know what you are needing from the donor engine bt I imagine you could pop one of the heads off, stick something in the cylinder and re-attach the head so that when you turn the crank...it doesn't turn. Hope this helps. Greg

Can I go next? I would love to know the history of my Roo. I bought it from the salvation army about a year ago. It is a 1990 legacy with 234K. VIN#JF2BJ63C9LH916889 Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Greg UPDATE: thanks team panic

I found out that my local chinesse restaurant gets their meat from the pound, not by the pound. MEOOOOOW...RUFF RUFF= poo poo platter. I think there is a misconception oh kidnapper of Beastie boys. What I was talling you is that the manifold and the cat are basically one piece. If you go to the following address you will see what I mean. You will notice there is a cheap universal and a direct bolt on. The direct bolt on is just that. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=C001&UserAction=performMoreDetail&Parameters=TRUE%7C%7ECATALYTIC+CONVERTER%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EBOSAL%7C%7EDIRECT+FIT++++++++++%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7E529660%7C%7E1231%7C%7E099-3221%7C%7ECOMPARE+TO+ORIGINAL%7C%7E%24561.80%7C%7ESUBARU%7C%7ELEGACY%7C%7E1990%7C%7ELLT%7C%7E7.0%7C%7EEA%7C%7EO I am looking for someone who will weld up some custom pipes to remove the front cat but no muffler shop in their right mind will touch it. Reasons are: 1. $10,000.00 fine 2. Jail time 3. business shut down for minimum of 30 days. It is a federal offense. I wish I could weld, had a mandrel bender, pipe expander, a lift, some 2" pipe, an oxy/acetylene tourch, and a pipe notcher. Then I could DIM.

It's my favorite half-man, half-ape.... I gutted the cat on my 90 legacy and let me tell you it sounds BAAAD! (not good bad) The problem you are going to run into is that the front cat is basically a giant "Y" pipe. You have the two manifolds that dump into the cat but only one pipe come out. Every place I called said they would have to use a universal cat and weld up some high-dollar fancy piping. Did I mention that the o2 is in the front cat. I hope this helps.. Greg from FL

He always has to one up me...LOL

The burping screw is on the left, top side of the radiator. You will need a large phillips head. Turn your car on with the heater on full blast. Fill the radiator untill full and let car run untill the thermostat opens. You should see the water level go down. Remove the burp screw and then fill to capacity. Some people say you should have th front end of the vehicle elivated. You could put it on jackstands or ramps if you choose. Hope this helps.

I'd like to punch my EJ22....right smack in the head(s) with a sledge hammer. They are all fun to drive when working good.

Yeah....what Josh said. There is an actual procedure as top how to burp the system though.

Chances are you just reset a circuit that wasn't working...like the ECU (to clear codes) it needed to be drained.

I was having the same problem with my 90 legacy so changed out the plugs and wires last night and she is running much better now. WTTW: New wires come with silicone gel that they advise you put some in the boots when installing, I imagine this is to keep moisture out. Don't drive through deep puddles in the wendys parking lot...(lol)

I know this is going to sound stupid but check to see if the thermostat is in backwards. Yes it does happen and more times than you would imagine. Another thing is that Subarus are real picky about their cooling systems. Hopefully someone will chime in and give you directions on how to "burp" your system. It almost sounds like you might have some air pockets in their. Try doing a search for "burping" on the message board. I am almost willing to be that you will find what you need. I hope this helps. How many miles are on it and do you know when the water pump was replaced, if ever. If it turns out to be your pump you should consider changing the following components while you are having that done: Timing belt and tensioner, oil pump seal and crank seal, cam seals, both idler pulleys, and both belts. (a/c and p/s, ALT)

I used a bottle of S-1 redline fuel treatment about a week ago. She seemed to run realy good for a few days then went down hill. I think the fuel filter was really gummed up because when I pulled it out and dumped it, there was what appeared to be dirty (greyish) gas coming from the "in" side. Thanks for the tip on the neoprene. I will just purchase the rubber belt.

I believe the belt to be older due to the lacking of any marking so I think I will be on the safe side and swap it out. If you go to www.napaonline.com you will find the neoprene belts. They are $50.00 though. Thanks for the advise.

Nope...sorry