coloradosubarules

If you use a socket set (metric) you can achieve what I call the "hood gone" feature. Tons of room and no pesky rod in your way. Lots of light gets in too. Hope this helps.

A 92 with 60K on the clock! Buy it! That car has along wat to go. just change the timing belt before 100K. While they are doing that they should do all the cam, crank and oil seals, not to mention the tensioner and idler pulleys. That will ensure your car will have as many miles on it as mine. 236K and still running like a champ. Hope this helps. P.S. Thanks for the awesome food. Chao...

I wouldn't worry about the 1/2 mile drag. As long as you come out alive thats all that matters. You got the prize and you got to live one more day. Stick the "yes I know they are a pain in the arse" dollys on and collect your check at the end of the week. You probably alread knew all the things I was going to say but needed a second opinion. They (customer) should have payed thier bills....while they are sleeping, you come creeping. REPO MEN...Steeling for a living. I love that show. A dude from the Sopranos riding shotgun with professional car jackers...AWWWW YEAH BABY!!!

I bought a rebuilt unit from the local parts store for $120.00

If the vehicle was in gear and they had just a flatbed then they would have pulled it onto the bed without dissengaging the tranny. It's not a pretty sight to watch. I've had to do it with peoples cars that had a tranny that would not shift because the cable was pinched or it operated on a servo and the electical system was fried. If they used a wheel lioft they would have dragged 2 wheels down while still in gear. Sue their happy Arses! Even though it was towed because you parked in a wrong spot, I do believe they will still be resposible for all damages.

There is a guy on ebay that imports the goooood turbo Subaru engines. Do a search and you will most likely find it.

Sue the towing company. It is their job to know about the car they are towing. They wouldn't tow a large, rear-wheel drive truck without removing the driveshaft first. They should have inspected the vehicle and saw (or asked) if it was AWD and then proceeded to do it the right way. If they used the wheel lift then they should have used wheel dollys for the rear (or front depending on how it was towed). I used to drive a tow truck so I know alot about this subject. It was ignorance that distroyed your tranny...not a mechanical malfunction. Take them to court. It doesn't matter that they out it in nuetral....the shaft still spins because there is no TC nuetral. Hope this helps.

99% of repo guys do not have a flat bed. They drive what is called a Dynamic (is the company name) wheel lift. Some even drive their own pick-ups with the wheel lift attached to the back (they sell them on ebay if anyone is interested) so I think the cars tranny is the last thing on their mind. It is their job to get in and out with the bounty. I would be a cold day in h*ll that I spent the time backing in my century double cab international flatbed into some alley in crack town to pick up some all-wheel drive vehicle. If it was me doing the job I would snatch it and run.....or if my boss was nice enough (and not stingy) I would trow a set of wheel dollys on it after I got a few blocks away. Alot of these non-tow truck drivers don't know what wheel dollys are and alot of drivers have them but never took the time to learn how to use them. I think this is the last word(s).....WHEEL DOLLYS!

That thing is sick!!! 10+ :headbang: :headbang: The power to weight ratio must be insane!! I want one.

Cow in the field look tasty too but I don't walk up to them, pour A1 sauce on them and take a bite. I guess if you are thirsty or hungry enough....

This would be fine and dandy if I had a turbo...hehe. Thanks for the input though.

I will taek all that into consideration and hit it full speed this weekend. Thanks for the tips. If anyone else has anymore please feel free to fill me in.

I use one of those "T" handle sockets with the spring loaded swivel. I just stick the plug into the socket and just spin it loosely until it stops. Never any force. Never had a problem.

Greetings fellow Subaru lover from down under. I do not have anything to add to this thread as far as info goes but I would like to take a second to point out just how different we are from land to land but how much we are alike. It struck me as odd that you would call a lightbulb a globe, but this was before I glanced over and saw where you are writing from. At that split second it occured to me that two different points of the planet are drawn to one single point....this website and the love of Subarus. So what if they drive on the wrong side of the road. As they say in Ausie...G'day. I used to chat with a girl in Australia. She would send me pictures and cute little things from there. I kept bugging her to send me a Koala bear but she just kept sending me these stuffed bears instead. She lived in Perth, and said there were alot of French restaurants there. Go figure. Wish I was there...... Greg

I'll try that but I am inclined to think it is more of a tranny fluid, filter issue. If someone could tell me which filter I need I would be much appreciative.

Your best bet would be to get an aftermarket wiring harness. That way you do not have to splice you harness. Any best buy or car audio shop will have them. Unless it has been cut already, it is just a bad move. Take it from a car audio installer.

Hmmm. I didn't replace the O ring I just put some super grey on it. I waited 24 hours before driving the car. I wonder.... It's going to have to stay like that if that is the case because I am not pulling it apart again.

I thought it was something to do with the timing because I never felt the belt was on just right. I have always used castrol synth blend and fram sure-guard filters. I forgot to mention that there is a loud belt squeling noise when the car is first started too. It makes the same noise when I take a corner at slow speed. (weird) I just found it extremely odd that is started that slapping noise after putting a new seal on my oil pump. I know it's not the tensioner because I checked the tension of the belt and it is nice and solid with no slack. Does anyone know if the timing being off a little would make a difference as far as this ticking/slapping is concerned? Maybe valves not opening up at the exact moment or not closing when they should be? It's really driving me nuts. This car was an awsome car before I did that F'n oil seal. (Kicking myself for not taking it to the dealer)

Do you live in an emissions state? If so the straight pipe is out. If not I would say go ahead and do it. This can not be done easily on the 1st cat but I believe it is not hard to do with the second. Just know that no shop in their right mind will do this for you as it is a federal offense punishable by jail time and fines. Just do what I did. Go to your local parts store, get a piece of pipe long enough and close to the size (if they do not have exact size) and a tail pipe expander, some clamps and some muffler putty. Do the job yourself. Please for the love of god be sure to use ramps or jackstands! Have fun...you should pick up a few extra HP too.

It takes about 5 or so minutes for the noise to go away (basically untill it is warmed up but keep in mind I live in FL). I did change the oil when I did the pump. Yes I did have to remove the oil pump from the vehicle because it was the rear seal on the pump that I was replacing. The niose sounds like it is coming from the drivers side. could the timing be off enough to produce this unwanted effect?

I am unsure what the problem with my 90 legacy wagon is. It has been doing this ever since I put new oil seals on the oil pump. Whenever the car starts (cold) it makes a loud tapping/slapping noise but the noise goes away when the car is warmed up. I changed the oil and filter thinking that might help but that made no difference. Like I said, it never did this before I did the seals. Is the timing off something fierce? What gives? It is driving me nuts! Would a bad O2 make it do this? I have run numerous bottle of injecto cleaner through to see if maybe I had valve depostis and that did nothing. Someone please advise.

Air pockets in Subaru cooling system are a killer. Do a search on the board for "burping" or air pockets. Ask Legacy777 (josh) for a link. He is "Mr. Know-it-all" on here. I guess that is why he is an admin. Besides he has helped me more than once.

I used to trun the really expensive bosh platinum +4 and they were good fro about 3K and went down hill real fast after that. I was hoping to get alot more milage out of them considering what I payed.

Turn car off Plug the 2 black harness' togheter under the dash (between TCU and ECU) Turn car to ACC position (do not start) CEL will blink the codes. Unplug harness Fix the problem Put many more miles on your car.

Is there anyway you can e-mail me that page or instructions on how to do that. I have a 90 legacy wagon as well and it is having some issues.