NorthWet

So... does the radiator have cold spots? I would imagine with a proper 192degree thremostat, the car should run at 190-200degF. With the cooling system working you should not see more than a few (2-5?) degree rise from "normal" (about what the t-stat is rated at). Any noticeable rise above the t-stat temp indicates a cooling system problem.

Filter? What filter? Are you referring to the debris screen or an aftermarket inline filter?

Very little real world difference, and the higher hot-viscosity rating is proably just as well for the summer. Lots of people even run 20w50.

Would the power steering system from the EA81T work here? It has the newer style PS pump.

I have an 86 XT which never had AC. The ribbed belt on it does not have a maker's name (Fabrique Au Canada, though), but numbers on it are: 4PK0960 and 378K4.

"Back in the day" when I did air conditioning repair (last millenium), high-30's to low-40's was what we considered acceptable. Had a retrofit on a Japanese car back in '76 that blew 32degree air right off the bat (gotta worry about evaporator icing...). mid 50's is, IMHO, totally unacceptable. Within spec, but no spec???? I didn't look back throught this thread to see if midwst posted, but he/she is an AC tech. You might want to see what midwst thinks...

Hmmm... the US wagons already have a low/high switch on the same panel as the defroster.

Folks suggesting easy-outs: Unless I read this wrong, the bolt is sticking up in the air, bolt head not seated against the manifold. It is not snapped off (yet). Go with MorganM's more detailed description. I can't help but ask... How the heck did you jam it in that tightly while screwing it IN??? I can see rounding the head trying to remove a bolt for the first time (not that I have ever done such a thing ), but installing a bolt whose tightening torque is around 22 ft-lbs and getting it that stuck? I am impressed! Are you using a 6-point socket on that bolt-head? That can make a big difference in preventing rounding. As a last-ditch option, do you have a way to cut the bolt head off, pull the manifold back off of the protruding bolt shank, and attack it afresh from there? Good luck, and let the penetrant and heat do its job.

Like Ed said, contact Qman or XSNRG. How about air suspension in the "high" setting?

"Tick Of Death" or "Tick Of Doom", its just a noisy lifter (HLA). Just like having a flat lifter in an American car, or a misadjusted valve in a non-hydraulic valve train. Causes seem to be lack of oil pressure to the HLA(s), aerated oil reaching the HLA(s), gummed-up HLA(s), worn-out HLA(s), or some/all of the above. Fixes start with getting your oil system in order: Change seals on the oil pump, and change the o-ring on the cam-carrier to head joint (also requires special sealant for the rest of the joint's "gasket"). Once you know that you have good oil to it, you could use one of several methods to ungum the HLA(s): MMO, Seafoam, ATF. I have had HLAs that made so much noise that I (and the person I was buying the car from) thought that a rod bearing was about to fail. The noise went away after 15 minutes, once a good supply of fresh oil got to them.

I had a 6 speed automatic for a couple of days... all the gears were forward, so that makes it a 6-speed, right?

Another thing to do for the brave at heart is to clean the valve body. It gets gummed up, too. Lots of channels to collect debris, and sliding valve surfaces to stick. And, if you don't clean/debur/polish the governor valve well it won't work much better than if you didn't touch it. Regarding lifespan, one reliable source that I have spoken with says that when his shop does teardowns of the 3AT the clutches and band are usually in pretty good shape and can be reused. Makes you wonder why so many 3ATs "fail". I think it is mostly just dirty valving and people not wanting an automatic.

Patience and penetrant oil. Put some penetrant oil down the shank of the bolt, go do something else for a while (hours or a day or two). Come back and try to work it out. Since the bolt was going back in, you must have had it out. That means that a) Its the wrong bolt, you didn't chase the threads before assembling things, c) you crossthreaded the hole (hard to do on intake bolts), or d) some or all of the above. Good luck. But the good news is that if the bolt was out of the hole it should be possible to remove it once again without drastic measures.

Yes, probably... that is if you mean if you don't replace it. 22mm wrench; or there is also a special socket that has a cutout for the wire to slip through. $25-35 Edit - Oh, and don't just go yanking it out. They tend to stick in their bungs, and then the threads just rip off and you have to run a thread chaser though its... well, its bunghole. Follow removal procedure in manual. end edit

Never learned to like coffee, and the caffeine does not "wake me up"...

I think that I have found the problem. Too picky.

Yes, try to "pursuade" them out. On the engine that I had to do that to, I epoxied them back in. I also solved that problem forever (in an apparently un-manly way ) by buying longer bolts and matching nuts, screwing the bolts in from the backside of the insert/cover and effectively making them into studs.

Don't doubt yourself. After posting last time, I realized that given the smoke and low compression you were thinking rings. So, my post was a little too off the cuff. :-p Did John have you try doing a "wet" compression reading"? Put some oil into the cylinder first, get it to spread around (a little harder with horizontal cylinders, but spinning the engine with plugs removed might do it). Compare the dry reading with the wet and see if there is a significant difference. Oil will tend to help the rings seal a little better, so worn/stuck rings will show a fairly big improvement in compression readings. Gas in the oil is annoying, but is more of a fire/explosion hazard than instant engine death. Oil smoke out the back (blue haze) could be an indication of crankcase ventilation issues, worn oil rings, and/or worn valve seals. Worn oil rings won't usually show up as low compression, just oil consumption/smoke. Worn compression rings could show up as oil smoke due to increased blow-by forcing oil through the "PCV" system. It seems unlikely, though possible, for both oil and compression rings to fail on only one cylinder. It could be that they are just stuck in their grooves, if the engine had been sitting around for a while or otherwise had "history". An HG could be blown into the oil drainback passages, causing its own "blow-by". So, it could be either ring issues or HG...

Remove the shield covering the rear driveshaft u-joint flange, unbolt the driveshaft from the diff flange, secure the driveshaft away from the diff flange (I zip-tied AND duct-taped mine to the exhaust system). Best way to be sure that you don't trash the tranny. Mine survived 2000+ miles on a dolly.

Pull off the interior trim around the shifters. The 4WD/hi-low lever is mounted to a bracket with slotted mount holes. Check for anything that is obviously bent, and if not, try adjusting the position of the lever bracket using the slotted holes. (This is all from memory, and it is still early in my day, so I hope that my memory isn't all scrambled.)

Ed, I still have the pulley that you sold me. My need is not immediate, so it can be shipped if needed. Otherwise, my phone mumber is (360) three seven seven dash four five eight two. Probably further west than you planned to go, but have ability to recover you from various western states. Pat

In what way did you "bend" the outlet? If it is just out of round, as opposed to cracked, etc, and it is a brass outlet, a radiator shop can use a tool that expands the outlet from the inside.

Wow, the Hanging Judge! I wouldn't want to be seen in YOUR courtroom!!! Why change a headgasket when a new motor will do, eh?

16. Not counting mine: 2... Probably a lot more around me, but it is semi-rural and folk don't take kindly to you snoopin' 'round.