NorthWet

As of WCSS7, he still had the distributor in place, as he hadn't yet gotten a block-off plate for the dist mount hole. Oddcomp, get all of this stuff worked out, as I WANT it for my uber-Twagon.

Yep, VSS it was a slotted opti-sensor. I shouldn't post while not quite awake.

Well, since the wheel doesn't lock straight ahead, I don't like locking the wheel in the first place. (That, and the abuse on the column lock mechanism.) Use tie-downs to the steering wheel both sides, and find suitable attachment points near the doors.

Neither have I, but that will end this afternoon. The tube looks like blue RTV... or maybe blue gel toothpaste. BTW, NAPA and Permatex numbers for these products differ, and the name of the prep/activator is also different. They are also pricey, around $15 each. My local NAPA wanted about $3 more for the sealer than another local chain. Still, you don't need much and it is cheap compared to pulling thing out/apart again.

RE: the micro-switch - the digi-dash that I have taken apart has a similar arrangement, and it seems to be used for determining speed electronically. I suspect that its use on the non-digis is for cruise control, etc.

dptyrob went through the remote door lock thing earlier this year. You might want to take a look for his thread; amongst other things, he discussed having to add an actuator to the driver's door.

Breathe... the ignition switch is where the key goes. So, the heater fan comes on when you turn the key in the ignition switch, correct? Does the starter function when you tiurn the key to "start"? From what I understand, the digi-dash can quit functioning if it gets an electrical stress, such as overvoltage/spikes from the alternator. I do not have any info on how the power windows are wired in the EA81s, or if there is a comon fuse for both it and the digi-dash.

Check all power connections: Battery cables at both the battery-end and the starter-end. Check fusible link(s) (I am not "current" on EA81s). Could also be your ignition switch.

Going further OT: Anything 510-ish in the restoration catalogs???

EA82T with a 4spd D/R???

Nice try! And rather than count teeth, I could just look at the number stamped on the ring gear... ... but again, not near where I am.

Well, it is not mine and that is the rub. Coworker, about to spend a small fortune on a used diff that they think that they need. I can't check for the diff tag (not near where I am), and owner says that he can't see one. Local JY says that the only diff they could locate was in Portland, 180 miles away!!! And they want $160!!!! Car is a 93 Impreza sedan with automatic. From what I have determined from searching, it should be a 3.90. Is it really the dirt-common 3.90, or a 4.11, or a something else? Thanks in advance. Pat

"Better" depends on your priorities. The EA81 is a simpler design, adding a certain dependability to it. But on the downside, it has less ultimate power potential and was not designed with forced induction in mind. The EA82 has timing belts that are a potential dependability issue, but has better breathing and thus more power potential. There is also the likelihood that forced-induction was at least considered in its design. The EA82T is far more available than the EA81T.

The EA82 head is a different design from the EA81's, and they are non-compatible. You could put the EA82T into the EA81. Or you could use the SPFI injection system onto your EA81. Either way, be prepared to do a lot of electrical/electronic work.

Just woke up; wife reminded me that I have a family obligation from 1-3 pm today. Will you still be at this at 4PM? If so, I will be at your doorstep shortly therafter.

Just got home from work; a couple hours earlier than normal. I need to get a few hours sleep before I am ready to drive. Scoobywagon and I will probably travel together. My WAG is arrival late morning but more likely early afternoon. More info when SW and I get our acts together.

Do you just need strong backs and weak minds, or do you need hauling capacity? Trying to decide if I can just come in a soob or if I need to bring my minivan. (Yeah, go ahead and make minivan jokes until YOU need to move!!! )

That is not so far off from what I paid last time I bought studs from an auto parts place... 16 of them for 2 wheels, plus $2 each to press in.

NO SOFABEDS!!! All sorts of good soob parts will fit in the back of my wagon... even more will fit in my Aerostar. Seriously, I will see what my schedule is like, and how late I get home from work tomorrow morning.

These have been discussed before (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38471), and my belief is that they are snakeoil. Capacitive discharge can help with an engine that has fouling issues, but it trades higher voltage for shorter spark duration (reduces the chance that the mixture will ignite). I agree with what Vanislru says. Pretty much voodoo science. High quality components will work just as well if not better. Well, I agree with most of what he typed. There are a couple esoteric nitpiks of a non-practical nature. Starters on big engines often pull 500 amps. And it is possible for a sparkplug to handle 500 amps, and for a capacitor to deliver it... but only for afew nanoseconds or perhaps a millisecond. Nit...nit...nit.

I don't have specs, but I do have hearsay: I am told that the later "hydro" motors (hydraulic lifters) have larger valves than previous EA81s.

I do not know that all 2WD have feedback carbs, but I know that my 82 4WDs do have feedback carbs. Are you sure that your car is non-feedback? The difference on the carbs themselves should be minimal. You might want to check the following thread (assuming that this is not where you got that 4WD/2WD thing): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=39952

(I did remember who it was, but didn't feel it was my place to put words in All_talk's mouth. ) It seems to be pretty common for these switches to die from the years and the high current that they have to switch. The best "cure" that I have heard for this is to use the thermoswitch to activate a separate relay; just keep the relay from getting soaked, eh Scoobywagon???

UUUUHHHGGG! Well no accounting for taste... what is it again that you drive at work??? Big, yellow and boxy, isn't it? Nit: Tribeca... Tri-Borough Economic Area, IIRC. Nothing like trying to make a high-falutin' Brand out of an old warehouse area. What's next??? Some fancy brand named after Watts or the South Side? US consumers are gullible. Oh, and is that brand new Saab SUV a Tribeca in Saab clothing?

2 thoughts: Leading rod bushings and rack bushings. Old/nasty leading rod bushings can allow annoying-to-nasty oscillations, but they usually feel more fore-aft or wheel-shake than side-to-side.