NorthWet

On my GL-10s/turbos, the front space is tighter than non-turbo (or especially XT). The radiator removal would be a must-do for me just for work room.

Yikes! Cretins abound!!! I will add it to my list to watch for...

All of mine are gear-reduction. I have not seen one that isn't...yet. The turbo auto was the one that I have seen spec'd at a higher KW rating.

I have heard that there are differences in the drive, but I have swapped back and forthe between manual and auto without noticing any difference in fit or operation. I have seen that various manuals have listed the auto version with a higher KW rating. (25-50% greater, can't remember exactly.)

Approximately the thickness of 5 "Business Cards"... ("back in the day", you could set points by using 2 business cards.) Isn't it amazing how an EA81 question turns into an EA82 angst-session???

Shouldn't require "splitting the cases", as the tranny sections are kind of "barrel" sections bolted together... but still doesn't look simple. My FSM is AWOL, but IIRC you have to pull at least the rear transfer section before you can remove the front final drive section so that you can access the gear.

2 issues to consider. The first is that the shorter intake length will raise the intake's optimum RPM considerably; not a bad thing if everthing else is modified for, say, a 6-8k RPM torque peak. The second is that the stronger induction pulses will make the jetting richer than it would be as a single carb feeding more cylinders. Not too much of an issue with Weber/Solex/D'ellOrtos, where one is expected to tune for such conditions, but might be difficult on lesser carbs.

You also need to mount the driveshaft center bearing carrier. Can't remember what I have read, but I think that the mount bolts/holes are not present, though where they go is marked by dimpled flats in the floor pan. Also may be an issue with mount bolts for the rear diff "subframe": Might also need to drill/mount bolts for it.

As in, "the lobes have to be able to pass through the cam bearing bosses in the camcase"? Makes sense.

Dumb questions, and I am just the person to ask them!!!: 1) Did you screw the caliper pistons in prior to installing the pads? (Probably not needed with new calipers, but...) 2) When you installed the pads, did you insure that the caliper pistons were lined up so that the pad pin slipped into the piston cutouts? (Horrible things can happen if you don't.)

Devil's Advocate-type question: I have heard on EA82s that Delta cams (specifically their 272 duration cams) required HLA shimming due to the regrind reducing base circle. (Context implied that the lobes were not built-up, but rather just reground.) Any info on this? *IF* they do this on EA82s, do they do this on EA81s? (I have NO first hand knowledge on this, just wanting accurate info. )

Something to watch out for: IIRC, someone (calebz???) had drivability issues related to intake changes before the MAF, and seemed to be caused by flow disruption through the MAF. Hopefully, that intercooler will help avoid MAF/turbulent-flow issues.

GD's comment about intake gaskets seems to fit your scenario. HGs tend to blow under power, not so much while decelerating off the freeway. Deceleration will bring high intake vacuum, potentially sucking in a failing intake gasket.

A scenario (not necessarily reality/truth, but a possibility) for the gas and oil smell is an EGO (O2) sensor that has been contaminated/affected by coolant and/or sitting. It is not uncommon for water to cause the EGO sensor to not function (I have gotten CEL to light up) causing the ECU to either misread or go open loop, either of which could casue mixture to go too rich. Similar can happen to the cats, allowing hydrocarbons to pass through. Is the "white smoke" water vapor (dissipates a few feet away from tailpipe or car) or is it smoke (persists until diluted by air)? You said it was a 5-speed so I am assuming it really is water vapor. (ATF can produce white smoke, but few other things will.) White smoke on start-up could be residual from main event or from just condensation from sitting. I agree with the compression testing; a leakdown test would probably be better. Was there any indication of overheating at the original event? The EA82T heads may warp a little, but usually cleaned up by a resurface. Main concern is cracking in the exhust port, which is common failure. Cracks between the valve seats is common and acceptable if not too deep.

Lightening engine rotating parts just changes how quickly the engine will change RPM... in a Subaru, that means mostly when blipping the throttle while out of gear. The power-to-weight ratio of Subarus will make it unlikely that you could measure any acceleration difference. (The engine might feel more lively, though.) As already mentioned, it will adversely effect (how much depends on how light) your idle and low speed smoothness, and can increase clutch issues (grabbing, chattering). It does not effect combustion, so no timing changes are needed. Lightening does not do any real world good UNLESS your engine's rotating masses are a significant total of your vehicle's inertia. BIG engine, light car, it makes a difference. Little engine, not-light car, almost no difference. Re: Exhaust - Nothing much matters after the first major obstruction/restriction in the exhaust path. Low-end torque will not be adversely effected by a too-large pipe following a cat or muffler. All the old lore about pipe diamater deals with a straight pipe, where exhaust pulses and flow are not interfered with by a muffler. Exhaust pulses are reflected/dampened by every change in tubing cross-section and or reflective obstruction, so they never make it past a cat or muffler (even glass-packs mangle the pulse). Keeping a pipe small past the cat/muffler just adds flow restriction, and is not needed for "extraction" purposes.

No good way to trick the ECU. (Could supply a constant 0.7v? to the EGO wire.) Assuming the ECU and carb are similar to EA81 versions, all the ECU will do is control duty-cycle solenoids that control bleed air into the carburetor mixture passages. Net effect is that without ECU direction your mixture will be a little richer. Do you have emissions testing to worry about?

Last I bothered to hear (last Millenium ), crossrotating radials was a BIG no-no: The belts took a "set" to the directional rotation and tended to break if put in service the other direction. Obviously, tire technology keeps improving so this may be outdated information.

For non-US friends: Current gasoline/ethanol blends in the US are around 90/10% blends. Current vehicles seem to physically handle that without much difficulties. I am not sure the solvent/corrosive issues with higher concentrations of ethanol (methanol has big problems in that area). Ethanol does not so much have a higher octane rating as a higher charge cooling effect. Ethanol has a lower energy density, so more will be needed to provide proper mixture. The SPFI ECU might not allow enough variance from mixture maps to allow a proper mixture on high ratios of ethanol. Speaking of which, I wonder how the ECU and EGO would work with E85: We all talk about mixture being set near stoichiometric, but the EGO actually reacts to free oxygen. My gut feeling is that the amount of free oxygen is what is important, and that stoich is just a calculated number, so EGO/ECU interaction should try to get correct mixture. I figure that since current blends drop my fuel mileage 5-10%, unless the the price discount is greater than 10% I pass it by. And last I heard (admittedly a few years ago), we (USA) still used petroleum to produce ethanol: Fertilizers, farm fuels, processing fuels (takes energy to frement/distill), and distribution.

No. Well, yes, but it won't move very far or very fast (think feet, feet/minute), or for very long before the center viscous coupling toasts.

My opinion goes totally with nipper on this one. Manually shifting just moves a selector valve in the tranny, and the rest of the tranny functions pretty much as if the ECU was doing the shifting. ("Pretty much" meaning that certain hydraulic circuits are activated/inactivated, so fluid routing may be different, and it MAY be possible to overspeed... not sure on the 4EAT yet as to how much it can override.) One could argue that more frequent shifting might cause more wear, but the automatic "hunting" for the right gear can do the same thing.

Electrical wire: Do nothing more than "capping it off" (insulating it). Rich sounds like the manual choke is not adjusted so that the choke comes completely off.

Well, yes it is to make it flow better, in that the smaller inlet/outlets will not flow as well as the proper sized ones. The adapters that Numbchux was talking about apparently work, and may work well, but it is still an extra restriction to coolant flow. There is no functional difference between comparable EA81 and EA82 radiators. The EA82 core is about 1 inch wider than the EA81. If you have an EA82 vehicle get a 2-row COPPER-core all-metal EA82 radiator, and either use the adapters or have the inlet and outlet tubes changed.

Not-What-You-Asked: Light pulleys and flywheels do not "add" horsepower. They allow the engine to change speed more readily. Distance of mass from crank centerline is also involved, so a crank pulley is more "bling" than reality.

There are ** 8 ** bolts holding on that cam-case. 4 external to the cam cover, and 4 internal.

What daeron is mostly talking about is both the soobs and the datsun/nissans use Hitachi alternators that use the same frame dimensions: Mounting ears are in the same places... no mount/bracket changes are needed. Now, if we can find a direct-replacement pulley to fit on the Hitachi...