88HatchMonster

Yeah, it might be pretty solid, even with a lot of rust on the outer body, but you had better check the "frame" for serious rot. i.e. check all of the points at which the running gear or suspension bolts up to the unibody. Pay close attention to the torsion bar mounts in the back and the top mounts for the rear struts. While you're dealing with that fuel pump issue make sure to check over all your hard and soft fuel lines for rot. They could be pretty destroyed or completely gunked up at this point, too. Same goes with the brakes... Anyway, definitely a cool find for up in the NE. Looks like it'll be lots of fun!

Feel free to check out my photos as well!

Here's what I did for my EJ22 into an EA81 hatch. The sender is strapped in where the power steering pump would have gone. Here's a post with the parts list and where to order: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=444573&postcount=14

Yeah, from my experience it seems to soak into the plastic and not just coat it in a shell of paint that could chip off.

Here's another vote for Krylon fusion, the rattle cans for plastic. Used it on my bumpers a full year ago and it still looks great.

Well, yes, they are great until there's a problem. Then good luck, because you may have to deal with someone who doesn't understand or speak more than 50 words of english. I'm not going to bother with them anymore just because I don't want to risk having to fight for my money back from those people.

I used to use them and had great luck. Recently their parts database has changed and there are a lot more mix ups. When you need customer service they hand you over to a non-english language speaker (Pakistani or Indian). I had so much trouble getting my money back for a clutch kit that never even shipped that I disputed the charges on my credit card and got my money back that way. My CC company investigated and ruled in my favor. I will not use them again.

Yeah, damn right! Awesome project, Awesome pics! And yes, please keep them coming and good luck on the build!

Oh yes, it's an EJ22. Arguably the best subie motor ever! Just get it. Early Legacies are great cars. Very simple and easy to work on like all the EAs, but actually comfy at 80 mph on the highway!

For that much I think we're going to need to see some more pics of rust-prone areas of the underbody. Inside door bottoms, rocker panels, rear wheel arches, rear wheel wells in the bed. Also possibly pull back the carpet in in the cab under the pedals where the floor always rusts through. Virginia subes usually get quite rusty... that's why I'm curious about rust on this one.

Yes, or get a different flywheel and have a machine shop mill out the holes. It also occurs to me that there may have been some misalignment between the engine and tranny due to the adapter plate. Though this would have most likely resulted in damage to the tranny I would think... I'm not sure. I just know that no one has had a problem like this when using my adapters, and I believe you made your own plate, correct? Not to dis your work or push an adapter plate on you, but it could be a possiblity. :-\ If you get the flywheel welded, you need not completely fill in the holes, just add enough filler to de-ovalize the holes and work back at it with the die grinder. If you fill them in all the way that much weld will be a nightmare to drill through.

I PM'd you an offer for the Brat!

Could we get some good pics of your flywheel? This is the first time I've heard of this happening and I'd like to know if I should stop recommending that my adapter plate customers hand-machine their own flywheels. I'd like to see just how eccentric your holes were. If they're very bad, I'd say get a new flywheel and try again. I really wouldn't try "Quicksteel-ing" a flywheel. Especially after what just happened.

It's actual UPS shipping from NY state. Go to my website: http://mroseusa.com and start filling out an order and it will give you the shipping charges to your address. Usually $15-20 coast to coast.

Hi all, I've finally got another batch of adapter plates finished and ready to ship! This is what you need for adapting an EJ series motor from a Legacy, Impreza, Forester etc. to an EA series D/R transmission. My adapter plates have been used widely by board members for going on two years now. All performing flawlessly. I decided that Rust-Bullet was overkill for the plates and the finish is now black enamel. This allowed me to lower the price to $165. Order safely online via my website: http://mroseusa.com

Can't wait to see how this turns out! I've wanted to try this setup for a long time...

It'a called a spindle, and yes they are interchangeable.

2 hrs north of Albany.

Last year I was still putting my '88 hatch together. This year it's all done and I'd love to go, but it's quite a long drive for me. Looks like the show is shaping up to be really great though so I'm seriously considering it. I've got a lifted/swampered/EJ22 hatch I'd be bringing. I think some of the East Coast folks who may have never seen a lifted sube in person would get a kick out of it. If I could hook up with anyone else in northern NY/New England and caravan down that would be cool too.

Beautiful! I love it, keep up the good work!

Gut the OEM speaker and use the mounting ring as an adapter for a 3 1/2".

They are different sizes, but 3 1/2" is a good bet for both.

There is no difference between 2wd and 4wd aftermarket axles, because externally they are exactly the same. The axles are a perfect interchange. What you need is a set of OEM 2wd EA81 axles. The critical difference is in the size and spline count of the axle shaft itself when you take off the DOJ. OEM 2wd EA81 axles are known to fit OEM legacy DOJs. Aftermarket axles are often made from a variety of new and remanufactured parts so it's never a guarantee that they will interchange parts like the OEMs, only that they will work as a replacement for the stock intended vehicle. As for the throttle cable: I used the pedal and cable from the donor Legacy, but I've heard that this is unnecessary and that the stock cable and pedal will work just fine.

Several hundred hours of ADVANCED fabrication. Cutting, welding, machine-work, not to mention engineering. Not even close to a bolt-on conversion. Certainly doable, though, if you're dedicated and fairly skilled.