mikaleda

I had the same problem with backfiring after shutoff on my hitachi on my 80 when I got it, it ended up being the auto choke, I removed mine and put in a Manuel choke.

Search for tick of death, it's a fairly common problem on these engines. More than likely its just time for a new oil pump.

Make sure the bowl isn't overflowing, like Vwbrat said make sure there is an air bubble visible in the sight glass. If you can't see an air bubble then I would pull the top of the carb and clean the needle and seat and adjust the float and see if that fixes it.

You have an interference engine, wich means the valves can hit the piston IF they go far enough out of time. I would replace the tensioner and do a compression check before you get too excited and you can just replace the valves, but it would be easier to get a set of heads from the junkyard

It could still be a bad switch, I would pull the switch and check it out.

Neither it's got timing gears, no maintenance required. Also interference engines didn't start till the mid 90's and they had solid lifters, your brat should have HLA's

I like toyo, they have good grab in the winter, they still last quite a while, and they aren't that expensive compared to other tires. Proper tire inflation is important, I usually run a few psi above the recommended psi since it seems to not be enough.

I wish you luck! Head gasket problems suck, hopefully it's something simple.

Unless he can show receipts for a rebuild I would price as if its the original engine, as for his break in logic, It doesn't sound smart to wind up a rebuilt engine on initial start up, even if they primes the oil pump and lubricated the top end first that makes me cring. I would take it for a spin and see how trans shifts and the 4wd works, this guy sounds like he's hard on his cars to have a rebuild at 215k in a subie, at least check the trans fluid. With what I know about it I would offer him $400 at the most, maybe if it drives good I would offer $600 at the most. I wouldn't worry about it as a daily driver, my ol 80 has been put through a lot of abuse and has always got me around when I really need it.

Yes, try the inexpensive fixes before you start thinking head gasket, it could be any number of things. There is one test that will tell you for sure If its a head gasket leak or not, it's called, block check, google it. Block check will test for hydrocarbons in the cooling system and tell you for sure if its a head gasket leak or not, it costs around $40-$50 tester and all.

Ya, punctuation would most definatly help.

Water in the oil doesn't happen on these engines, I believe you have the year that has the external leaks. First though did you use a oem Subaru thermostat or stant Xact stat? After market thermostats almost never work. Also these engines are temperamental about being filled, do some searching and you will find the info you need on how to fill your cooling system properly. If filling the system properly and having the right thermostat doesn't work check for bubbles in the resivour tank that's a sight of a head gasket leak.

I don't see how a scanner can say there's no compression, that purely mechanical. You should manually check for compression, it should be at least 120-180, if your getting lower compression than 120 then I would check the timing belt timing.

How badly was it overheated, did it just stop running from being over heated or did you see the gauge redlining and shut it off. That can make a huge differance. How long did you wait to restart it? By "symptoms spark, fuel, compression" do you mean you are missing all of those?

We should get everyone that knows you on the usmb to email photo bucket and complain! I bet we could really pile them deep in emails

A search should give you that

Early 90's Mitsubishi's had auto seat belts and early 90's buicks had a simpler form of them.

Actually I didn't change the fluid when I changed the filter (I know I should have) I just didn't think about it. If the trans cooler only does what you are saying then I wonder why when the filter was changed the trans stopped slipping, and the delayed engagement quit

Don't block the PVC system off, it will cause a buildup of pressure in the engine and cause increased engine wear. PVC has been around since the 60's there's a reason for it.

that makes sense it's like an antenna, this makes me want a faraday cage.

The TCU should tell me If it's overheating and it hasn't, but when I changed the filter the first time it did solve my problem for a while so I suspect the problem is here. If its blocking the flow from the torque converter it would decrease the pressure in other places as well I would assume since the pump is connected to the TC

I did look at the trans pan when I was doing the oil change the other day and it looked good

No, I wish I did open it up and look now. I'm wondering if I might be able to look up the acctuall TSB and get info from there myself. They might explain more about the filters and it might shed some light on the subject. Does anyone know of how to find a TSB? And also the power light has never blinked at me either and I'm a gauge watcher when I test drive a vehicle. When we first got it I did a fairly thougrogh test drive with it for 18 miles, on highway, dirt road, and off road mixed driving and that was how I found out about the awd slip That being said my mom (who drives the car mostly) is fairly good at watching for unusual gauge readings, but she might not have noticed something like the power light blinking. I really don't think this is a elctrical problem, I think it's mechanical so I'm going to start with a drain fill procedure (inspecting the fluid) and an oem inline filter and see what happens. If the fluid is good looking with little or no friction material and the delayed engagement goes away and the awd slip is still there, then I will see if I can pull any codes from the TCU. If that fails to release any codes or the delayed engagement doesnt go away I am planning on pulling the internal screen filter and replacing it and cutting the old one open and inspecting it, that should tell me a lot, if it is clean it would lead me to believe a malfunctioning duty c or wiring to the duty c if its clogged with friction material that would lead me to believe that the awd clutch packs need to be replaced.

Lifetime of the part, lol I'm sorry sir, but your part is dead, the warranty doesn't apply now. I can just see one of the guys behind the counter at shucks saying that

I had that thought, I did use an aftermarket filter, it was for a Honda. Probably would be best to do a drain and flush and put an OEM Subaru in line filter in before I start dropping the pan. To north wet, the AT temp light has never come on other than the initial startup. I would say that the awd problem is being caused by the same thing that is causing the delayed engagement problem. No I haven't Manuely checked the line pressure, I should have stated it differently I shouldn't have said low line pressure I should have said lowerd hydraulic pressure. What I believe is happining isn't happening in the TC I think it has to do with the valve body as when the old inline fliter was clogged it started leaking out of the hoses and the engagement issue coupled gears slipping in engagement and I assumed this was because of low hydraulic pressure and might also cause the hydraulically controlled awd clutch pack to slip. You did mentione something I find interesting, the TSB is for another screen filter in line? The main filter is a screen and is supposed be a "lifetime" filter, but I have seen threads on here with these screens were clogged with friction material after 260k. This car has close to 270k miles on it and I would say anything can clog with Time and abuse, this car had not been taken care of when we got it the struts were blown, it had a brake drag, and it had a set of matching bald tires. What I would like to know is this inline filter supposed to be a screen filter? If so I know what part of the problem is, the parts store told me that the TSB was for "large amounts of metal material clogging the radiator transmission cooler" and was "a magnetic filter". Now in wondering if the parts computer has a 91 Honda mixed up with the 91 Subaru legacy since I got a genuine Honda part and have never heard of high amounts of metal shavings in the 4eat