mikaleda

Okay I have been dealing with this car a little trying to help my mom out with it. When we first got it the trans would pause going into gear and especially shifting from drive to reverse, it would slip going into gear and the awd would take a minuet to engage letting the front wheels slip. I found out about a TSB in 91 auto trans for clogging radiator coolers and a magnetic filter that goes inline to the trans cooler. We replaced the filter and the radiator (since the old rad blew up) and it started shifting better and there was no delay in engagement. Now a little ways down the road It's showing the same symptoms again, delayed engagement mainly. I'm just wondering if the trans needs to be drained and filled (yes I know to do it three times with a drive cycle between drains) before I put another new filter inline and if I should replace the internal screen filter while I'm at it. Also is it possible the low line pressure could have caused the awd slip when we first got it? It doesn't seem to do it anymore, but I haven't really driven it in slick conditions yet. Or is the rear clutch packs going out clogging up the filters?

Yep bad bearings, I would put in a u-pullit trans just in case it gets bad when you take it apart. It's hard to tell what the metal from the bad bearings could have done to the others until its apart they could be on the way out.

Check and make sure the resistor connected to the coil is operational, it maybe there but be an open circuit letting ignition noise into the wiring. In the late seventies gm used resistors everywhere, on the alt, on the coil, on the distributor, and on any electrical connection under the hood to keep the noises out of the am radio. My opinion is that is why we don't use am that much anymore is because of how sensitive it is to localized electric currents and short of wrapping your engine in a faraday cage it's going to make some amount of noise. I would park somewhere where you get a good signal and listen to the ball game without it cutting in and out from driving to fast lol Oh and bad/old wires can cause this also.

Probably air in the system, are you using the vent plug when your filling it? Also you need to fill it slowly to get all the air out.

Yep I have a Manuel first gen with 4.11 that's my 90 My mom has had two first gen autos one 90 4.11 one 91 4.11

If it was in the intake gaskets wouldn't it be burning coolant not getting it in the oil?

Nice find that sounds like the same one.

I've used green and organge before and I didn't have a problem, but it was in an old Chevy and I didn't run it for very long like that so I don't know if that's true or not

Empi comes with a lifetime warranty, but it doesn't mean much since empi got absorbed by another business so they'll warranty it until they run out of stock. On another note napa now carries "new" c.v's, I can't say how good they are. the quality looked good, but their is no way to tell until someone on her buys them and gives them a review.

I've never had any problems with regular cheap o coolant off the pats store shelf, it does say it works for aluminum engines on the back though.

always replace both head gaskets.

Exactly, I have driven a stick since I learned how to drive and I've always used compression braking and brakes together to have maximum control

Cool project, I'd love to see a build thread on this.

No, just stop man. You're science is flawed, when you let off the gas in gear the engine is not trying to propel you foreword or compression braking wouldn't work, excluding doing 10 mph in 4th gear the emine is holding you back with the foot off the throttle (And yes I am exagerting on the numbers above I'm sorry I don't have all the numbers in front of me.

At $6.27 I wouldn't be using gas. I'd do a a LPG conversion or get a horse and bicycle

Good logic

It probably burned out the voltage regulator when it was charging at 15.5 volts. if you do need a new alt, double check the wiring and make sure they are going in the right places before you run it.

It sounds like whoever fixed the plug mixed up the charge light wire and the sense wire, that would explain the high charging and the light not going out. I would double check the connections at the alternator and make sure they are correct. Also it would be good to check and make sure the bulb is working like gloyal said

I have had this problem at a couple of gas stations, it doesn't happen every time. It's almost like the way the gas coming out creates a vapor lock. Good suggestion though, definatly worth trying.

It could be a pad that is stuck or loose causing the noise. it wouldn't be a bad idea to do a brake inspection and maybe grease the slide pins

Since he's repainting anyway brake fluid might be worth a try. Just don't use it if your not planning on repainting since brake fluid will destroy your paint job.

I can't find the Stant xactstat tread anymore, I did try searching, but I came up with 0 results no matter how I worded it. Can anyone give me a part number for the xactstat for an ea71, I'm tired of these crap thermostats I've been using

There should be a line that goes to the filler separate from where the gas goes down into the tank that is about 1/2 in diameter that's the vent hose, it might be clogged.

I don't think I've ever heard of an ea82 that had problems with too high of oil pressure it's usually to low but on a serious note bing it up to temp and see what the pressure is, I bet it will drop down to normal readings.

Yep check the motor mounts, but did you inspect the right hub as well? Also check your muffler system, I had a weird noise in my 80 for a long time that made me think I had a bad bearing, it turned out to be my muffler scrapeing against the rear end hanger because the p.o. Used a bungee cord to hold the muffler mounts and every time I stepped on the gas it would flex just enough to make it scrape and sound like a banging grinding noise.