mikaleda

Ya well from experience the more info here the more likely it is to be found, I know this info is her somewhere, but try finding it, search function needs to be reworked, and searching through google works, kinda it still takes forever. I really don't see why this thread should be deleted, refined might be a good idea though get the arguments out and leave the fact You do got to admit, it does have some info and a good title

I know my 80 has a drain plug, yours probably does too.

I just bought a full parts car, I have too many parts now unless you have some headlight bezels and tail lights for an 80 or 81 wagon. I kinda got my brake going again It turns out I wouldn't have been able to make it if I wanted I got hired at a mechanics shop Thursday and have been working all weekend, glad you had fun!

Ya, actually this thread is full off info, including tire sizes available for thirteen inch rims.

Yes I agree, easier done than said I know the charge wire doesn't sense voltage and isn't switched 12v I just reread my info and I didn't describe it very well, sorry for the confusion.

If you read my last post I said that I had an alt out of a 95 so it is different, the way I have mine hooked up IS correct my alt works perfectly, BUT that is a differant alt. Gloyal, please do not take this personal, but you really need to read a little more thoroughly before you comment. I'm sure you are correct about 90-94 alts, I do not know about those in particular, but I do know how my 95 alt works.

Fuel filter should be under the hood on the drivers side, it looks like a black canister with two hoses on top. It wouldn't hurt to change it, if its clogged enough it could cause your problem. Try looking up "how to test cattilitic converter on YouTube, there are a few videos in it I personally like Eric the car guys videos, but I don't think he shows how to test one with a vaccume gauge.

They mentioned that there was no check engine light.

Thank you Tusuru

Fuel pressure could be a culprit, how long has it been since the fuel filters been replaced? Is acting like its flooded when you first start it? Could be a leaky injector o-ring. The cattilitic converter could be, that can be checked with a simple vaccume gauge, or with a temp gun.

I understand not trusting chilitons, I've seen chilitons that had pages in upside down (not to mention false info) I'll pop those covers off and take some pics I might have some time after work tomorrow

Neat, at least they missed the school

According to chilitons 87 2door hatch (std) was the last year for the ea71. I'm not saying that has to be because chilitons says so, but from the responses I can assume that it is corect that the u.s. market did have some later model ea71s that could have had HLAs. Now as for the points, I'm not sure why that is, my best guess would be that the original disty failed and someone stuck a points distributor in. I'm not sure why someone would have done this, but that is my best guess at the moment.

I'm not saying I trust them, just that they have a general idea of when the 1600s were made, also this isn't a DIY chilitons its an import shop Manuel, it doesn't have much info, but it does show engines that came with certain models and years.

Unlikely since the axle cup wouldn't fit through the hub, but still its not a good idea to let it go to long. I've heard of people's cars catching on fire cause of bad wheel bearings

That doesn't look bad compared to a Toyota rav 4 I've seen driving around here that has to have 12-14 lift on it, talk about top heavy, you almost needed a ladder to get in it.

I'll have to check my chilitons and see what it says.

I'm so happy with the old gl, it has faithfully Been getting around. It's going to be my daily driver for a while now. I just got hired at a mechanics shop/convenience store and so work will be slowing down on this car a little, I don't have a day off until wensday, but I will start working out the details of getting the engine/trans in. Oh and also my alternator has been performing flawlessly so far, and I will be making a write up on installing it in an externally regulated subie as long as it continues to work correctly.

Hmmmm... This adds to the mysterie, I suspect this is a JDM motor, I know that 85 was the first year of HLAs in the u.s. and I believe northwet is right that 84 is the last year of the 1600 in the u.s. I'm going to have to do some more reasearch on this, does anyone know where I could find out ea engine specs from the JDM? I don't want to pull the valve covers, but I really would like to know whether this acctually has HLAs or not, luckily I just got a job at a mechanics shop and I can probably get parts through them.

Kyb's are good, lifetime warranty. I put a set up front on my 80 and a full set on my moms 91 legacy and so far they are great, I live 8 miles from black top so I've got to have good struts.

If the MC is starting to fail the booster might be putting too much pressure on the master cylinder, as you rev the engine up the vaccume of the motor decreases and makes the booster work less making the pedal firmer.

I wouldn't worry about structure, my 80 is 5 times as bad as what you have in the same areas and its still holding together

Lol +1 if only they would give you a dollar for pulling them out, I don't think that's a bad price

I don't see why it couldn't, I used to pull people out of the ditch with my sameri all the time no problem, once I pulled a 3/4 ton ford out of a snow bank, but of course that could be part of the reason the trans failed later lol I hope your car is okay.

Maybe the lock linkage is getting caught when you roll the window up and locking your door making the others lock? Weird.