mikaleda

Lmfao! I didn't even think about that possibility.

Oh and I changed the knuckle the other day, what a pain in the butt, it took me all day. Now it steers way better and the new knuckle makes me feel safer.

Okay, im going to get it licensed today and start driving it. My brake is still sticking slightly, but it seems to be working itself out. I haven't changed the engine trans out yet, but it will be soon, when I was driving down the highway yesterday and it was making a bad grinding noise whenever going uphill. I think it's the trans giving up so I need to change it out soon.

It would definatly help to know if its a stick or auto. if it is a stick you might need a clutch, you might get a little more out of it by adjusting it, but you'll need a new one soon

That has to be covered, I would take the blown ones bAck even though its a PITA

I like this idea, bailing wire is always in both of my cars, there always a use for it. It looks like I'm going to be getting a couple rolls of this

Hmmm... Maybe the pressure sensor that shuts the pump off is malfunctioning, but that wouldn't explain why it blows cold air when you jump the clutch. I'm not very knowledgable about the ac system, where I live I rarely use ac so I never really work on them.

Well that must be why, mine is a 95. If you read my post I said connecting the charge light wire directly to 12v will fry your internal regulator, I know I did this the first time I tried it.

I tried reusing the metal band on a c.v. The other day and I finally got frustrated and used bailing wire doubled up, it took two tries, but so far it's holding good

The ac isn't turning on because it needs to be charged. The knocking could be sway bar bushings or ball joints, jack the front of the car up and do an inspection. Your rack is toast or is it your inner tierod ends? The rack itself is fairly simple to replace. Main tip I can think of to help pull the rack is to drop the y-pipe, it will make it way easier to get to everything and also soak the tierod ends and bolts in penetrant a couple days before you start working on it.

I have been thinking the boot I got in my hygrade kit looked flimsy, it's not torn yet, but I've barley put any miles on my carb since I overhauled it. Of course I should know soon since I've got a heavy foot

My sense wire is constant hot, it should have direct connection to the battery to correctly adjust voltage. Your alt must be differant. Edit: I was just thinking, the switched power isn't for the sense wire it's for the charge light wire, that is what activated the feild windings in the alt to make it charge, this needs to be hooked up through the charge light to work properly or you need to wire it to a switched hot with the correct resistance. If you wired your charge light wire straight to a 12v power source, that could cause the internal VR to burn out and creat a dead short that will kill you battery. I did that the first time I tried the swap in mine.

I'm not sure what your asking, I just put an ej alt in my 80, the only wire you should need in the v/r harnness is the charge light wire. I wired my sense wire and charge wire straight to the battery with heavy gauge wire, if you want I can post some pics of what I did, my alt came from an impreza 2.2. The main wires you need hooked up are, the charge light wire, the sense wire, and the charge wire. You'll need to find out what wires are what on your alt. what did your engine come out of?

I don't think you trans is toast, Id replace that cylinoid and see what happens, but before you replace it check the connection for corrosion. Edit: did you jack it up on the trans pan? That could cause problems.

Imho That doesn't sound like a head gasket. Unless your saying there was bubbles in the rad, I'm not sure.

Why not swap it out with another ea82? That would be easy enogh, I've seen plenty of happy people with ea82 subies.

I've got a charcoal canister if you want it p.m. Me and I'll send it to you for the price of shipping.

There is a plastic tank in the rear passenger wheel well that could be cracked, this might cause a vaccume leak and would explain your symptoms.

Here is a quote from gd in the tread I was thinking of, I think I know what the differance is I was thinking oil light sender, but I should have been thinking oil pressure sender, wich would be the opposite.

Hmmm, I'm going to have to look up the tread I saw this setup in. I could have swore it was a better work around.

This sounds like a vaccume leak somewhere to me, it could be in the evap system. Do you smell gas in the car?

Check the fuel pressure, it should be 2-3 psi, I bet it'll be low, I don't think your carb is the problem, a real easy way to test if its your carb or a blocked line is to take the hose of the inlet side of the pump and connect a longer one going into a gas can see what happens, if it starts working then you know something is restricting flow. Unless of course the restriction is in between the pump and the carb.

I must be forgetting a step, there is a way to run it with a relay and the oil light sending unit.

you misunderstand me, i said to run a relay with the negative side of the relay to the oil light switch, constant positive to the positive side of the coil side of the relay and the negative to the oil light sender to activate the coil in the relay turning the relay on. a weber would delete the air suction system and would eliminate a lot of vacuum lines. as for swaping the intake onto the ea81 block, thats something i wasnt aware of, but i think the reason for the swap could be to do with the ea82 intake, faulty injectors or sensors, since this is unknown i would assume the whole engine is going in. i was unaware they made a low psi pump that would fit in tank oh and for using the ea81 fuel control box, good luck finding a good one and their $80+ new or you could use a relay

your going to have to fabricate a different fuel pump and in tank fuel pickup, an 80 fuel pump would probably be the easiest fabrication since it splices into the fuel line under the hood, you'll have to make a gas pickup where the old fuel pump is. your going to need to wire the fuel pump so that it only comes on with the engine running, running it with a relay with the negative of the relay going through an oil light sender would work for this. an ea81 with a weber would help simplify things. that is all i can think of since i am fairly unfamiliar with the loyals.