monstaru

picklewagon? how much are fenders?and how are they? hood? badges if they are good.anyone willing to price that stuff out? i would love fenders if they were good.how are the doors?damn i need good fenders. bueller?bueller?cheers,brian

did this boat sink or did it never leave port?cheers, brian

holy snap...............crazy.that would hurt.cheers, brian

thats not a head bolt socket.that is the valve tool.to loosen the clamp down nut,and adjust the valve nut.the top handle revolves around inside the bottom handled one.making it oh so easy to adjust. i have one,but am not getting rid of it since i recently jumped back into ea81 land.cheers, brian

you can crush the nozzles a bit to get them to spray.just don't close'em up.cheers, brian

it is very possible that the fuel pump relay is toast.up under the dash behind the fuse box.first relay from the front.see if it clicks when you turn the ignition on.cheers, brian

he is not talking about offroad lights. hella makes oem replacements. just go to there website.......

you got it mang...........you gonna be around this weekend?give me a buzz.509-991-8048

400 tim.she was asking 600 in her advertisement.i asked what her bottom dollar was and she said 400.i reluctantly said,ok,well, i'll give ya 400 for it. then proceeded to drive it to her shop in town for the title exchange,was leaving her shop and when i got on the main road it died on me! we pulled into an empty parking lot.went and got some fuel in the case the guage was off a little .nothing.crankie,crankie,crankie.no start. got my insurance company to tow me home.got the voltmeter out .good juice through the coil.no spark.change disty,starts right up.AWESOME!!! and the disty change was after a couple of hours of frustrated meandering about the car testing this and testing that.got the HTKYSA out and read the troubleshooting guide for the umpteenth time and tested it properly:lol: ....................and amazingly enough.i changed the disty out after a couple of soulfully relaxing barley soda's. so all in all ,i figure it is all an adventure.i registered her this afternoon.and will drive her to work tomorrow if she starts:lol: oh yeah,she has 133,xxx original miles.)banana(.cheers, brian

here is the worst of it and the best of it......... :banana: and the whole shebang will be keeping it pretty much stock,as it will be my daily digs.basic upgrades i guess,but mostly stock i think.woohoo........cheers, brian

whats up with these?cheers, brian

definitely have the bung idea.i guess i am worried about matching the egr pipe type of metal to whatever tubing i got.i am going to go get a head from pull and save today to see exactly how the egr port is routed.tear into it and see if i can drill the head.cheers, brian

bueller? bueller???? no one has any idea what kind of metal the egr pipe is?it appears on further inspection it is steel.at least it seems that way.i am not even close to being a metalurgist,so any ideas would be accepted as valid and be considered a sociable response. cheers, brian

the intake will be swapped.the problem after that is no egr port on the head.hence the tapping of the exhaust manifold in some spot.cheers, brian

probably in the wrong spot.can we move this to swaps please?cheers,brian

i had so moany issues with this ;i was cannabalizing other webers for the bushings.that roller bearing sounds like the ticket.cheers,brian

ok.so as i stated before.i dropped the ball.got the wrong engine for a guy.resealed it,cleaned it up.supposedly it had 130 thou on it.could be.it was relatively clean. put it in,runs awesome.but since their is no egr.it codes.he is not necessarily concerned it seems.except that he is concerned about the next time he goes through emmissions. i have looked on the ecology website for more info on replacement motors ,but could not find any. will call them as well.but then i would be told that the owner may want to sell it.which is a valid thought on his part seeing as he is a driving salesman as of late.good car=good gas mileage and good mileage= more in tha pocket. now.i have read other posts that are newer dealing with codes and swaps.some folks were talking about resistors in line with the harness or changing heads.do not want to get a different head.do not want to learn how to put in a resistor.the resistor i dea i though was good at first,but then what happens with flow codes?they show up and you are in the same boat.another head would be easy i guess.but i always went the way of "if it ain't broke,don't fix it".sooo.... umm,i think i am going to tap the exhaust pipe. the questions where?,do you think copper will do it ,and whatever else could be associated.....come to mind. i am thinking the closer to the head the better,and using copper flex pipe i think i could be successful. it appears to me that the old egr pipes i have are some type of copper mix.my concerns are obviously heat related at this point. opinions,suggestions?does anyone think that copper is a bad choice for this? does anyone think that the length of the pipe as being an issue? etc,etc........ cheers,brian

loosen your throttle shaft nut ever so slightly.

and theres no competition from me in those years.i can be cheaper. when it comes down to it you have to decide what you will put up with .what are you willing to do that the car may or may not have problems with. i mean, you have to draw a line somewhere right?

ok.there is some great info in here about comparable probs i am having. only i put a 95 2.2 standard engine in a 97-98 outback with auto trans. no egr on the replacement engine,originally an egr vehicle. what does the ecu do when it is looking for a standard tranny,as opposed to an auto. i am about to drill a port in the exhaust header and add my own egr port. we were thinking about putting a resistor in line to fool the ecu into thinking that there is an egr. but,what resistance would i need to do it?it states that it is at 1 volt just like the purge solenoid control valve that ed was talking about.but that is in the "on" position.the off position has different values for both engine on and engine off with key on . i really need to find a solution that is long lasting.any insight is appreciated.cheers, brian

if it was my car i would probably just take the cel lightbulb out. but alas it is not my car. the owner is fine with the way it runs and what not.he is worried about emissions. or sale. did you have to do emissions in your car?and if so ,to what avail?cheers,brian

i need comparison between a 98 2.5 ecu and a 95 2.2 ecu. does auto or manual tranny matter?i am thinking not? i need to clear the cel from my life.i ended up putting a non egr motor in this outback and everything works fine. the concern is selling it or emmissions. there is not a port for the egr on the rear of the head.so swapping intakes is not possible. i am thinking of another ecu.hence the post.possible?as far as i have read everything is the same.except maybe the pin outs going to the box.maybe i could switch them and be able to rectify the situation with the cel.cheers, brian

do your own work.it is cheaper. the local shops pretty much rape you on anything older than a 2000 yr model.this area has a large amount of parts,as well as this website being the "uber knowledge " site.cheers,brian

tell you what......she once told me that i got 5 acres for cars.and yes buying.i am remaining on the positive note that everything will go as planned.and we will be moving soon.let's all keep our fingers crossed. cheers to having room for what ever i want......

a 32/36 jetted for an ea series car is fine.if you go any bigger on your jets your just wasting fuel.i tried three different setups and i ended up back at the starting point because of fuel consumption. whatever redline jets them as is what you want.might mess with idle control but that is about it. cheers,brian