monstaru

betting on rag joint if it has one..........?the rack itself would be sucking in moisture one way and not the other in the case of rack woes.......... the tie rid ends could be bent in one direction, but would not necessarily be pulling or pushing hard in one direction as it would be seen in driving straight and not just turning yeah? or overextending in the rack itself,past a gear or so.....then coming back in.? power or not?cheers, brain

damn good job mate,i am coming up with a crossmember idea myself right now as well.what size is the plate you used for the actual mounts?i am trying to figure out what i have downstairs to use. and do you think mick will be going through engine mounts the way you have it setup?any added stresses,etc....cheers, brian

as stated, definitely possible.but not worth it when you can find 4wd soobs for hundreds of dollars.just keep your eyes for a 4wd rig and use it as a toy.cheers, brian

long,and i mean like 10 incher,screwdriver..........usually just sneaks past ,doesn't seat in the slot all the way,and is still pain in the rump roast.but works.cheers, brian

it is supposed to be like 8 tomorrow/today.....

its huge.where you run into issues is with the body mounts on the toyota frame,you almost just want to weld crossbars from side to side.but then it is really ridiculous.it takes a little finesse to get it to match up right as it sits. but if a guy were to shorten it in the center where the transfer case crossmember was, it would be easier maybe. it is defenitely fabbing eve3rything.nothing matches up.i got it all lined up and attached at a couple of points then got rid of that project.cheers, brian

nice looks good.keep us updated.cheers, brian

i actually got something done today.i will be doing the other front tomorrow. the rears are already done.the drill press worked awesome.the new drill bit(35/64ths) was perfect , and the cutting fluid is my friend. went to town after i had made a jig for the hub to sit in.worked out well.. this update brought to you buy a seasonal brew....mmmmmmm just for you jared. cheers, brian

this is what most of us do............cheers, brain

ummm, why?

sweet ,thats good to hear.now you know more. sorrry you had to go through it but your a better man for it.now you know your own innards.cheers. brian:grin:

you need turbo axles, or swap in some doj's........same driveline though.(andy said so)as he cacckles sitting next to me..... whatcha doin with your d/r?:)i sure could use one that i know is in good condition..cheers, brian

don't punt it.......:mad:if it seals differently then i am betting you got her licked.......should do the trick.sorry your having troubles with it.i just never got around to mounting it as it was going on an ej that i do not have timing covers for..... so i never got around to starting anything up with it. i am hopin that switcharoo is your demon.cheers, brian

flip it,if it fits the other way around... flip it generally they fit only one way.....cheers, brian

flip it around......it might help.try that.i did not think you would have to do any work either.but you will be better off from learning as well.cheers, brian

this is a rebuilt carb,so it may just be tight.didyou check to make sure it closed all the way befor eyou put it on,worked the linkage and what not to insure that it was moving open and closed without your help? the butterfly might be a bit off.loosent the screws,do not take all the way out,and play with it that way.obviously not on the car.i have seen it where the butterfly is not seated right and will not close all the way. i never noticed it when it was here,but i did not run it either.but i worked the linkage plenty of times.the butterfly is all i can think of.cheers, brian

well, first off, what i know of it requires modification for the tranny crossmember .that entails what you wish to mount it with,old school or new school mounts. then of course linkage,how you wish to go about it. i mean, you have to look at these things logically take the time to get any extra parts you can, and think of how important it is to you to do this modification.that will determine how much you truly wish to figure out. not trying to be rude by any means. but just asking what is needed is like asking how to go fishing.it is a very open ended question. i am sure you can think of a lot of things that are needed for this swap.if you ask more specific questions, you might get more specific answers.there is alot of info onthis site,and there is a great part of this forum called " retrofitting" i would start there.cheers, brain

looks like ************...... nice work man.i envy your space.........cheers, brian

defenitely one of my hero's "make my day punk!":lol:.......if you only knew:rolleyes:cheers, brian

it comes to mind that some of the early model (ea81) had issues fitting the later model(ea82) or vice versa because of rubbing the caliper.a slight grinding of the caliper relieved this situation if it occured.no big deal.i have done this with no repurcussions.cheers, brian

" I guess I am just supposed to use the diff plate and drop the back and leave the rear drive shaft at a factory angle." eggzachary.......:)cheers, brian

that is awesome......you had me worried there for a second......good luck.cheers, brian

thats exactly what my B and M shifter handle looks like,does that one say hurst on it?i did not know hurst made them too.or is that just the shifter itself?cheers, brian

thats because you beat the hell out of your rump roast end ......:lol:cheers, brain

well, as it stands, it will only be about 6 to 8 inches of lift.with a sammi t-case.the diffs are 4.44's.the rear is already welded.i want an lsd front, but i do not have one. it will be subframed,obviously for the t case.currently i have 235/75 15's for the tires(off the brat).six lugged,rear disced,ej2 carbied with a newer carb setup than i had last time.a few other surprises.i was trying to win a show with the brat, and put it in the wrong category.niot this time.i just wanna drive it.and learn more about driving.we all know, especially you scott,that i am not a good driver.. crawl ratio at basic standards is not very good only like 56:1.... when i can get the gears for the t-case it will jump to 162ish to :1 simple lightened hatch.looking at about 150hp with good gearing.eventually turning into a buggy.have no idea when it will be done.but i should at least have a basic edition done before the end of winter.meaning driveable.cheers, brain