Dee2

So long. Others will surely follow. I'm certain there's a newer Subaru in my future, just haven't determined what it will be.

did you check for any computer codes ? If no codes then possible causes are: -vapor lock, next time it fails to start try removing fuel cap off gas tank to see if it helps -fuel pump/ relay affected by heat -coolant temperature sensor -alternator / voltage regulator being affected by heat

You say "it won't start" Does it crank , or is it just totally dead ?

Good work on documenting the problem solving. Bummer on the pump noise. Best option may be to shop around for a used Subaru pump. When I replaced mine a few years ago, I got a used one for about $25 as I recall. Seems like Subaru used that same pump in many models so the boneyards can typically scrounge one up.

Well that's a big step in the right direction. Apparently the problem is fuel related so at least it's narrowed down to that. I would not eliminate the fuel pump, yet. But let it clear it's throat and try again later. If the tank ran low before some junk may have clogged the system but it may work it's way through. If it's too dirty you may have to replace the fuel filter. good luck.

I'm not aware of any no-tool compression test. Air can be checked by the cleanliness of the air filter-found mine soaked in oil one time. You know how to check for spark - that's good Timing belts should have an inspection port to verify condition Also, check the distributor for any problems Just because it happened to me one time - rap on the fuel pump with the handle of a screw driver a few times and see if it makes any difference - may take more than one try.

You need spark, air, compression and fuel to start the engine. --you have fuel, do you have the other three ? --if you have the other three, check for broken timing belts

For $47 it wouldn't hurt to have a pump on the shelf as they do go out. When mine was acting flaky, I learned that rapping on it with the handle of a screwdriver could get it working again. If that is the result then it is definitely time to replace the pump. May take more than one try. If it doesn't make any difference then perhaps the relay is in fact the culprit.

I used the cube tool when I was working on my brakes. It worked well. I tried to use pliers but didn't have much success. I found the cube at NAPA.

Edmunds.com calls for a 15.9 Gallon tank, but all I've ever got int there was 11 gallons. 22.73 MPG by my math.. meh mileage If you want to improve your range, the simplest thing to do is to improve your gas mileage. The tanks are 15.9 so the first thing to do is find out why you only can fill 11 gallons. Secondly look into ways to get better mileage. Replace the oxygen sensor, clean and sharpen your plugs, proper air pressure in your tires, clean your air filter, etc. After all that is accomplished, then see where your at on mpg.

I agree with Opus, you ought to be able to lay a straight edge on it and see if it is warped.

Torque on the castle nut is about 145 ft-lbs. There are many videos and pictorials on how to replace the wheel bearings. Search this forum and youTube for MilesFox

upload some pictures of the heads and folks will be better able to advise you.

I was given exhaust clamps (U-bolts) in the kit, I would contact the supplier of the kit and ask how to resolve the joint problem. Make sure you got all the right parts and get information about how tight to torque down the connections without crushing the pipe. The crude way would be to just tighten them down until things start to crinkle, then you know it's time to stop. I don't recommend that approach.

but they aren't doing a good job keeping the fuel off the the ground... You aren't supposed to have fuel in the exhaust system at all. Something else is very wrong and you need to find out why fuel is there in the first place. I suggest not running the vehicle until that is resolved.

Do you have a wrench holding the nut on the other end ?

There are many posts in this forum about setting timing. There are also videos on youTube from MilesFox about setting timing. They should help you resolve those problems. Here's a link from the online forum manual http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/48359-timing-belt-procedure-ea82/

Could be the valve cover is slightly warped. I used NAPA ALTROM gaskets and found them to be OEM quality.

I used a rubber strap wrench to counter the movement. Other suggestions can be found by search the site. here's one find http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/6523-removing-crank-pulley/

I would check the brakes out. Check/replace brake fluid. If your going to do the timing belts and idlers and coolant hoses, you may want to change out the water pump as these fail over time and are going to require a lot of the same access as the belts. This would also coincide with coolant replacement.

I googled this: subaru won't restart when warm found a lot of similar discussions. Many point to the sensors. You might recognize some of their symptoms to help narrow it down.

Intermittent clunking can also be bad shocks. If it is more apparent on rough roads then probably time for new shocks.

You might want to get one of those camera probes to look inside and see if you can spot the wrench. Once you see it then you can find a tool to try and retrieve it. A simple magnetic pickup tool might suffice.

Your car is a 1990 model This should help with your trouble codes http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/

Maybe this will clarify http://www.dirally.com/forums/showthread.php?2726-ea82-Oil-Pump-R-amp-R