Frank B

Here in VA there's a box you can check on the title to say that it is not actual mileage. You could always put your drill onto the speedo cable and rack up some mileage that way .

If you fill the radiator all the way to the top when cold, you will loose a good amount of coolant due to expansion when it gets up to operating temp. Thats's because there is no catch can, or coolant reservoir on the older cars. Install one from any car or buy a new universal one from the parts store and any coolant that comes out will go into it. It will attach to the small hose that comes off of the rad under the cap. After a few cycles you will notice an average level. I bet some of your coolant loss is because of this. Get that in order first so you can tell just how much your losing. If you do have an internal leak, you may be able to buy some time by installing a rad cap that opens at a lower pressure, like 10 or 8 psi. This will reduce the pressure on the leak, but may cause the engine to run at a higher temp. Coolant/water boils at a higher temp when under pressure. Again, it's just to buy some time untill you can fix the problem, not just the symptom. And check the pcv and breather system too. If the moisture in the oil can't get out, it will form at the highest spots like under the fill cap, dipstick tube, valve covers, etc.

At least clean up the seals and look for cracks or rot. If the grease is dark, clean it up and re-grease with high temp grease. It's easier to do now then a few days later if it starts to stick or bind.

I like those guards on the tie rods, are they custom or stock over there??

The engine needs to get up to operating temp, 180 or so to boil off the moisture in the oil, if it does not you get the milky gunk in the pcv system, and under the oil cap, like Gary said. But, it sounds like yours is leaking. It may only leak while sitting. After the engine heats up, and the metals expand, or gaskets soften, it my not leak. It my leak all the time and the hot engine oil can cope with the small amount of coolant. But sitting still it just adds up. Hard to say really. But, there are a few places to look before you tear into the heads. Under the carb is a coolant passage that warms the carb. The carb base gasket can fail and leak coolant directly into the intake. This will burn off while the engine is running, but sitting it can go into the cylinders then leak past the rings into the crankcase. This will also "wash away" the oil and wear down the cylinders,rings, pistons, wrist pins, etc way too fast. The intake manifold gaskets will do the same. Both are fairly easy to fix, and most members here will tell you to use OEM Subaru gaskets. The next time it sits a while, start it up then turn it off right away. Then pull the spark plugs and smell them, if they smell like coolant you may have coolant in the cylinders from the intake or base gasket leaking. Or just pay attention to the exhaust and smell it.

So, have you fixed the car yet?

It may be more like the float is stuck. Remove the carb and seperate the top from the body and take a look. I had this happen on an 86 EA82 3-door, it would only idle. The float was twisted a bit and rubbing the side of the float chamber. A good rebuild kit will have the needle and seat, as well as the gaskets needed to take it down and clean it. They're not much of a rebuild kit anymore.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-Subaru-1300-1400-1600-1800-Brat-Loyale-Caliper-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33563QQihZ024QQitemZ370049242036QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Some of the best mechanics I've met were either highly trained, ASE dealer service technicians, or an independant working out of his own garage at his house. A good mechanic looks at all the possibilities before "fixing" the problem. Not just jumping on the first thing he thinks it is. A lesson I have to learn again from time to time...... Most of these shops are pressed for time too, the mechanics are being rode hard by management to get the car in and out fast so they can get another one in. More profit that way. That shop that sent you a bill, they just didn't have the courage to tell you to your face that they don't want you doing that anymore. Sounds like a woman made that decision, I only say that because I worked for a woman that did that kind of thing all the time, and when the person came in to confront her about it, they were told that she wasn't here!

It's on the EA82 cars too. My fiancee did it on an 89 gl-10 we had, drove her nuts all day untill I got home and hit the switch.

Classic case where "Made In USA" and "assembled in usa" are thought to be the same.

Oh, I forgot to mention this. Once I had the same problem on my Ford truck. Turned out to be the vacuum booster was sticking inside and not allowing the master cylinder to release. I found this after replacing the front calipers, pads, hoses, and M/C. I guess you can check this by removing the vacuum hoses going to the booster while the caliper is hung up. I do believe that the M/C applies pressure to one front corner, and the opposite rear corner for each line coming from it right? If your rear brakes are in need of adjustment, and it sounds like it, then the opposite rear brake would be hung up too if it were the booster or M/C.

Well then all you need to do is remove it. Whatever you do, short of fixing the problem, it will just stick again the next time you apply the brakes. Just take it off and fix it. Bleed the lines real well too, all of them.

I'd love to see a parts sheet that shows the country of origin of all the parts on a Harley. So the next time some instant biker tries to give me crap about my Yamaha, I can just show him the list.

I just went through this, it was a two week ordeal. During this two week period I removed and dissasembled the starter 5 times. Jumping voltage from the battery to the solenoid did not crank the starter, it just clicked. Jumping voltage from the battery to the spade terminal on the solenoid, the one the ignition switch suplies voltage to, did nothing but make it click. Only when I jumped it to the contact on the starter itself did it spin, which isolated the starter motor from the solenoid and switches. So that ment it was the solenoid, or contacts. It worked, it's fixed, how can there be anything wrong about that?

It's your contacts in the solenoid. Not the switch, battery or the starter motor. The click is the sound of the solenoid plunger making contact with the contacts. If it clicks, then the switch and the relay are working. Just like spark plugs, the contacts wear down over time with the electric current jumping the gap as the plunger gets close to the contacts. You'll find that one wears down faster then the other. Does it look like this? The starter motor is the round part, the solenoid is the square part. If you remove that gold cap on the end of the solenoid, you will see the contacts and the plunger. This starter is a NipponDenso starter, as used in Toyota, Honda, Isuzu, Kabota, John Deere, Mitsubishi, just about any import engine. Here' the contacts. Super cheap on Ebay. http://motors.shop.ebay.com/items/nippondenso-contacts_W0QQ_nkwZnippondensoQ20contacts I just went through all this, that's the only reason I know. You'll need a 12mm, 14mm ,and 17mm socket and wrench, 8mm or phillips srcewdriver. just remember to disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery before you remove the starter.

That's why I remove the hubcaps, rings, or center caps from all my cars. I can't stand the rattle from pebbles stuck in them, or the rattle from them being loose.

If you find that the caliper itself it the problem, it will be easier for you to just replace the caliper. They can be rebuilt, the rubber boot and o-ring aren't that expensive. But most likely if it's rusted and gunked up real bad, it may never be right again. I tried to rebuild one and I could not get the caliper piston back in. I ended up putting a used one on. Remember that the piston screws in and out, do not use a big c-clamp to push it in. You need a special caliper tool, availabe at any parts store cheap, to turn it in. You may get lucky and fix the problem simply by turning the piston all the way in, pumping the brake pedal to push it out, not all the way, then turning it back again, then bleeding the lines really well. That may free up the rust and gunk. It may also just be the slide pins. there are little rubber boots on them and if they tear, dirt and water will get in and rust them up. Remove the caliper, clean them up and regrease them too. The removal procedures are in a Haynes Manual, also available cheap at any parts store.

I think it will actually tell on the part, if the decal isn't gone. The NipponDenso will just say ND. But there will be numbers stamped on the distributor, get those and post them if your're still not sure. They will interchange, Hitachi and ND.

Here's the post on my pump install, but the pictures are gone. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40400&highlight=ford+fuel+pump

SPFI or MPFI ? Have you checked the other components like the MAF, TPS, CTS, ABC, 123, ......... Seriously , there a lot of inputs to the ECM, any one of them could cause it to turn the engine off. It probably wouldn't hurt to test all the sensors, clean up the connectors, and clean/add/replace the ground wires anyway. If the fuel pressure drops too low it will stall. You don't have to pay that much for a pump either. Get a used one, or use a universal FI fuel pump. Since the pump is mounted outside the tank, you have many options. I used a Ford inline pump for a full size pickup on my 89 GL-10. I can't remember now if the pump runs constantly or it's supposed to turn off after it reaches the correct pressure then just comes on in pulses. Have you tried to directly wire the fuel pump? Run a jumper wire from your battery to the pump and see if that helps or at least turns it on. Just don't drive it like that.

Look on Ebay. Which distributor do you have? The Hitachi or NipponDenso?

It's the bushings that go bad and cause that. You can have it redone. At some point, it will start stalling, usually while going around a corner.

There isn't much on the EA81 as far as electrical or electronic components. The ECM is there to control and monitor the emissions isn't it? Aside from the distributor, and coil there isn't much else to the ignition like other cars. CPS, MAP, MAF, etc are not there. Does your tach jump around? Have you tuned it up latley? New plugs, wires, cap and rotor? Get a repair manual and test the coil and distributor. I would bet it's the disrtributor. Does it have the NipponDenso or Hitachi distributor? It will say on the unit.

No it doesn't does it. But that's probably why it leaks all the time. Even OEM flange gaskets will blow out in time. I really think that a flex pipe, the stainless braided type, installed in the y pipe would help that.