wtdash

Is it tire type or size that's more important? Remember that if you go smaller/bigger you'll also mess w/your powerband. Bigger will spin less RPM @ at a given MPH, but will be slower off the line. INDY is pretty flat? If you've got hills this may matter. But if you go smaller, you'll end up higher in RPM band...and may get a vibration/resonance @ 70MPH you don't care for....you might try driving around in 3rd (AT) or 4th (5-speed) to see if you've got anything to worry about. Another good tire size and comparison calculator is: http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp GL, TD

What is the idle speed in Park (assuming this is an AT)? If it's normal could be trans/TC issues. What's the history of the engine? Did the low idle follow a major service - e.g. Head gasket, etc? Td

Forester struts (EDIT: Take offs>>Top hats + Spring + Strut) are different than Outback.... Check out my POST w/essentially this same setup (FXT struts fit the same as non-turbo Forester struts). The '93 should have the same top hat bolt pattern and bolt up in the rears w/out issue. There will be a noticeable sag in the rear, so be prepared. You can use 'saggy butt spacers' from Paranoid Fabrications if you want to level it out. TD

Check out subarugenuineparts.com for decent online prices and shipping costs. Also, the 'snout' on the transmission may be worn like THIS. If so, I recommend the Tranquil Snout Sleeve kit. I bought mine from performance@smart-service.com. Make sure you get the right one for your car. GL, TD

Check THIS old post about a dented pan...may help, too. GL, TD

Gary, I read on another Subaru forum that on the SOHC (which this is from - a non-turbo EJ25 on a 2005 Impreza), that since there's only one camshaft per head the valves wouldn't/couldn't collide, so it probably did hit the piston to bend.... Can you verify this? Thanks for your help!

Yep...been there/done that, but thanks for clarifying for others. (updated OP to show it's a SOHC.) Td

So, the valves hit each other, not the pistons, correct? Thanks!

2005 Phase 2 2.5 SOHC from an Impreza - non-turbo, 70K miles, bent valve due to idler pulley failure, which caused the T-belt to skip. (According to wikipedia this is an EJ253...which was also used in the '99 Forester/Impreza??) Can I install my Phase 1 EJ25 DOHC heads (edit: from a '98 Forester Phase 1 EJ25D block) on it and go? I've read the '99 Legacy series used the EJ25D heads and Phase 2 block, but 2005 is new enough to make me wonder. (I know I'll only use 1/2 the mounting bolts to connect to my transmission.) Would/could the valve damage the piston/block in any way? Thanks, Td

I SO hate those damn things...they are impossible to read. I'm not finding anything definitive. But a bad valve, timing belt issues, extreme weather changes, etc. come up. How many miles? What recent maintenance has been done or issues have occurred? Did you get the codes checked again? TD

In our NW- Subaru-prolific area $1K is a very good deal for a Legacy OB w/bad HG's. Sounds like a Limited trim, so even better. I've 'flipped' about 3 of these and paid over $1500 each time- even after talking 'em down a bit. I've heard/read the same complaint of the Forester's rear seats, too. GL, TD

Hi, I've seen this over on SubaruForester.org...suggest you search on there, too. GL, TD

I know they last longer...are they direct replacements for older cars' bulbs, too?

A couple of things to check: What's the AT's fluid level? Yours also has an AT spin-on filter, I believe. If it were clogged, it may cause your symptoms? GL, TD

After losing Reverse when I had my '95 Legacy's 4EAT Flushed (to address torque bind), I'm hesitant to recommend a flush on any Subaru over 100K that's never had the AT fluid touched. I'm in the drain>>refill 3x camp. Is it a valid argument that a flush can dislodge old fluid deposits leading to leaking seals? I don't know what a flush does internally, but if applies a reverse, or higher-than-normal, pressure to the AT's internals, I can see it being an issue. Thanks, Td

Technically, the XT6 - ER27- in '88-91 qualifies, I believe. Next up was the SVX-EG33 -'91-97. Then the 2001+ Outback had the EZ30 depending on the trim (LL Bean, Limited, etc.).....which is probably what you're after? Td

Best 'guess': You're in 'limp/fail-safe mode' due to the knock sensor, which lowers performance....not sure why there's not a code?? A cracked KS needs fixed regardless - used or new ($50 online).

Sounds like a perfect candidate for replacement transmission. If you can do the work yourself and save the labor, get the used one. If you can't, then getting it rebuilt might be worth it if there are any issues. You'll get years more service out of your OBS....just keep the maintenance up-to-date. Td

Hi, Welcome to the Board. You can search on here for "sell or keep", "replace or fix", or similar terms, to see what others have done. What is the transmission doing that makes it suspect? New gear oil can help in some cases. Is the car solid otherwise? Not rusting out, etc? (If you're from Keizer, OR probably not too bad.) If so, I'd look @ replacing the transmission w/a lower mileage used one... And keep driving it. According to THIS CHART yours is a Push-style (vs. Pull) clutch and has a 3.90 final drive ratio (and the EJ22)....You can use a trans from a Legacy that matches those specs, too. Look on car-part.com for used trans in your area (but it probably won't show the Legacy interchange) for $500....usually can be shipped for another $150. It sounds like you could change it yourself. Watch craigslist or on subaru sites, too. GL, Td

Yes...and as noted by 'grossgary' there are some things to consider putting turbo engine into an NA car....the crossmember is a big one. If you're new to all this, please do yourself a favor and check some of the Build threads on various Subaru forums. GL, Td

See below.

Edit: ^ What he said. :-) You'll find on here that just about everyone recommends OEM wires. I've also seen Magnecor and NGK used. I bought my NGK wires from NAPA (had to order them). Don't go cheap! Plugs - unfortunately, due to their cost, the stock NGK's are again your best bet. But I've had a couple Subie mechanics whom I trust tell me the equivalent copper version are fine, too....you'll just need to change them sooner...but if you've done plugs on the 2.5 DOHC you know it's not a job you'll want to do again soon! Td

'transmission fluid' = Automatic? I wouldn't get back into the T-belt just yet.... Plugs and wires - condition/age?

eulogious, Nice write-up and thanks for taking the time to look into it. Maybe Sticky material? Td

Hi, Are you 100% sure you're T-belt is on correctly? Did you count the teeth on the belt between marks or just go off the marks on the belt and covers? Did you replace all the pulleys?...The belt 'screaching' makes me think a pulley is bad. Did you replace the belt tensioner? Or reuse the original one? If original, did you slowly compress it, per the FSM? GL, TD (500 posts FTW!-Finally!)