wtdash

Unfortunately, it's not the O2 as that plug is more oval and I'm very familiar w/it (due to changing it multiple times on previous Subies). But I appreciate the reply. Edit: It's more a triangle shape. :-)

EDIT: well, not really, but I got the engine installed and started it up - No CELs, so hoping/guessing it was 'extra'.. Hi, 1998 Forester - 5-speed. I'm reinstalling the engine and failed to label the plug circled below. I can't find its mate (it might be unused). It's on the 5-speed's bellhousing near where the 3 big, main plugs connect. Thanks, TD

DOH! Yes, it will (if it's an AT w/the EGR)...good catch, MR. G. TD

Not stupid...gotta learn somehow....a Search would tell you that the tires will likely rub on the strut's spring perches, so although the wheels fit the hubs, the tires won't physically fit. The Outback/Forester struts have higher perches, plus they're taller to provide lift (along w/body spacers, etc.). They also may rub as you described. Td

Yes, but the front end will sit higher than the rear- impreza/forester has different rear strut-mount height - see my POST. You can use 'saggy butt spacers' to even it out a bit. If the Forester is the S model (likely w/leather seats), the tires are 215/60R-16 - I have an S in my shop right now. I know the seats will fit, just can't confirm how much higher they are. If they have seat height adjustment you should be OK. TD P.s. If you part out the Forester, please let me know...may be a few items I could use, if it's the gray interior.

.....If the speedo isn't working, there's a good chance one of the 2 VSS sensors isn't getting/sending the correct info to the TCU....although dropping into Reverse is 'new to me'. I forgot to ask, does the Power or AT Light flash when you start it up? If so, check the Codes HERE. I just think you should rule out the easier fixes b4 swapping trans to have the same issues. Td

But it goes thru the gears, incl. Reverse fine? If so, then I'd just have the rear transfer case repaired....they don't even have to drop the trans to do it. You've tried changing (not flushing) the AT fluid, too? Td

$900 is steep, unless the miles are verifable AND low. $150 seems too cheap. I've paid around $400 each for the 3 I've bought. I may get some flack for this statement, but I wouldn't buy a 4EAT over a 100K unless I KNEW it'd been serviced regularly...I've put 3 of these in Subarus myself. But just like any other part on any other car, if maintenance is neglected it'll eventually cost you more in the end. I think a warranty on the labor and parts is worth it......But check w/another shop, if avl., for a quote. I'd also ensure the shop is familiar w/Subies. Lastly, ensure you're getting the correct trans for your car....FWD vs. AWD, Legacy vs. Impreza, etc.....there's also the final drive ratio to consider, which may differ....just because it's a Subaru 4EAT doesn't mean it's correct. But you should also be able use other years, too. Ok, off my soap box! GL, Td

Go to tirerack.com, choose the Wheels section, enter the correct vehicle info for what they fit ('08 Avenger), click one of the wheel choices and it will give you the bolt pattern, or Search online for 'bolt pattern'. Your Impreza is 5x100, and it has to be exactly 5x100 - not 5x108, 5x114.3, etc. Then go to http://www.1010tires.com/Tiresizecalculator.asp and compare tire sizes. Those in the ad are much taller than your Impreza's, and may rub/screw up your speedo/slow down your acceleration/etc. GL, Td

To address the 5-speed swap question: It all depends on your skill level, time the car can be out-of-commission, and access to the necessary tools and work-space. There are detailed swaps online - read a few to get an idea what your getting into. Cost will depend on a bunch of factors, so you'll need to do some research there, too. But finding a dual-range 5-speed will be almost impossible as they were never offered in the US for the Legacy/Impreza/Forester. They do show up for sale on here and other US Subie sites, but don't hold your breath. The Aussies got 'em - not sure who else. GL, Td

You'll need the GOH-M24 Subaru remotes (or equivalent). I'd just buy 1 or 2 on ebay, program 'em (info HERE) and go from there....unless your aftermarket one includes some advanced functions - remote start, etc. GL, Td

+1 on the connector check. Did you check for CEL codes before/after the swap? GL, TD

^^Thanks for the pic....I was wondering if this worked on the old and new tensioners. Td

The O-ring is on the lower part of the block behind the oil pump....Check out the Beer Garage....worked for me. GL, Td

Turbo an EJ25 - read this THREAD . It deals w/the newer SOHC EJ25s, too. There are kits out there, but not cheap. Td

I didn't see it answered, but on this engine, doing only one HG is probably OK....esp. if it's still in the car. GL, TD

Does the POWER light (on the dash) blink when you start it up? If so check out Mr. JC's POST on reading the codes. GL, Td

Thanks...I was hoping one of you smart 'lifted' guys would know something. 1. cut where the arrows point 2. swap the pieces 3. weld them back together w/a sleeve over the cut ends Any concern that the welding heat messes w/the needle bearings? '98 Forester on the left; '08 Impreza (ends have same spline count as '04 WRX rack) on the right

I have an '04 WRX rack and pinion that I was planning on putting in my '98 Forester, as mine's leaking and the WRX's has a quicker steering ratio. The steering shaft's knurled end in the Forester has a more coarse spline (?) than the input pinion shaft on the WRX so the '98 Intermediate Steering Shaft won't work and vice versa. Can a machine shop swap the Intermediate Steering Shaft u joints? So one end matches the WRX and the other the Forester's? Also, I'm guessing I can't just swap the pinion gear 'box' as that's probably part of the WRX's quicker steering ratio? Thanks, Td Edit: Found THIS and THIS after more searching: And then I read this POST by DOHC_Holiday: EDIT: I ended up swapping the pinion gears from the old '98 into the newer WRX rack: We'll see how it works out!

Never mind. Td

I agree w/MikeC03 about the head gaskets - if they aren't done, start saving ($1500-2000) for the repair, as I'm now convinced they are a 'maintenance' item like changing the T-belt. Once changed the car is good for another 150K+ miles...IF it's had/will have regular oil changes. I've seen and read about crank/rod bearing failures....not the car's fault - poor owner maintenance....but that's the same for any car. Search on here for more info about other maintenance items. The EJ22 was only avl. in '95 (not a real OB) and '96 but only w/the 5speed. If you come across an OB w/the EJ22 swapped in (commonly done), it's not a bad way to go. But if you're spending a lot time @ 8-10,000 feet, you may miss that extra power. GL, Todd aka powder pig :-)

I don't like to share 'maybe' info, but since you've not got much response: Other members run the 205/75R-15, but they have the OB struts. I think the 75's are too tall and will hit the bottom of the '95s spring perch. GL, Td

Just to be clear, are you talking about just the Intake Manifold (IM) vs. the heads? DOHC IM won't work on SOHC heads, but you could put '96-99 heads DOHC heads on '99, which is what the '99 OB/GT are (Phase 2 block w/the Phase 1 DOHC heads). Use the heads, IM and harness and go....I think...I'm still unclear on the compatibility of Crank Sensor (and possibly a couple of others) from the Phase 2 EJ25 blocks. Search on here as it's been covered. GL, TD

Not to be a 'butt-in-head', but taking the driving class helps you find your limits. And yes, handling can be more fun than speed. Fast cars lose to better drivers/better handling cars all the time. Have fun, Td

Pistons are cast but coated in the EJ22T...check this LINK for more info, but essentially: "........and the pistons were given a dished crown (which lowers the compression ratio from 9.5:1 to 8.0:1), stronger rings, longer wrist pins and a molybdenum coating."