idosubaru

heard from who/where?

some companies only replace the parts that are warn while others replace all serviceable items - bearings, brushes, voltage regulator, resolder joints, etc. that's the difference between a quality built item and taking a risk. a new part will have all new components where a poorly rebuilt item may only have new brushes (in the case of an alternator) but everything else has unknown mileage on it, but passed whatever spec's they had at the time of rebuild. benebob mentioned locally rebuilding, that's a good option because you can request they replace everything, a complete rebuild and not just the brushes. and if they only replace the brushes they'll charge you likewise - $40 or so instead of full price for a half rebuild. (disclaimer...assuming local rebuilder is honest and a nice person)

if you want to change to stick, do it. it's been done and documented. no more trans issues and you get what you want. and they're not that expensive to find a manual trans to swap in.

if the seller doesn't know much about cars, sometimes they don't relay information very well either, so it's not always the mechanic to blame...but surely can be. good luck,

good call, i recall seeing that now that you mention it.

I'm new to completely rebuilding engines so pardon my dumb questions... why can't you just pull the halves of the block apart with the pistons in the bores?

never heard of this happening before. seems to me something must be causing this and will fry the other you're about to install. why was it rebuilt in the first place, what happened to this thing before? did they reuse the torque converter? maybe replacing the torque converter would help? that's a wild stab, but i've never heard of this happening repeatedly. really bad transmission or motor mounts (doubtful though). they'd have to be horrible because i've never had bad ones cause issues like you're having.

like they said if it's an auto get an aftermarket cooler installed. they are inexpensive and well worth it (even if you don't tow).

sounds like a bearing is going bad. unfortunately the most likely source is a timing belt bearing. hard to say without being there, but that's my guess. new timing belt (the old one will be overheated and compromised) and probably at least one new timing pulley. i live close to gettysburg, PA and could do it for you but i'm doubtful you're anywhere near me.

turning rotors is an annoying process altogether. if you were short on change and it's worth the time to save a couple dollars, and you got another car to taxi your rotors around town, turning might be your ticket. but it's annoying and a waste of time in my oppinion. subaru brake systems are robust and handle most aftermarket pads very well, i wouldn't have any concern using aftermarket pads on subarus. (i've only done it for about 400,000 miles.....)

what she just said. Subaru OEM PCV valve - and no you definitely did not do any harm to your motor, it's just the PCV. NGK is usually what Subaru sells as OEM equipment (i wasn't aware they installed anything else). used to be all NGK as far as i know. Subaru doesn't make spark plugs, so whatever the dealer carries can be bought elsewhere.

i have seen pads wear out in 6 months before on more than one occassion. it's good to note which brand pads you're using. if they wear super quick then try another brand. some brands will wear quicker on some vehicles than others. i've used wearever silvers dozens of times on other cars and they perform fine except on my parents Dodge Caravan, they'll last about 6 months. other brands work find on their caravan, go figure? all the pads should be inspected and compared to one another. it only takes one pad to be worn down to make noise, not all of them. remove the wheels and make sure you can check all 4 front pads. one worn more than the others indicated caliper is sticking.

it's not a plug-and-play ordeal, so if you're looking for something simple the ER27 (XT6 engine) isn't the answer. i agree with the EJ22 comments being a better option. i disagree with reliability comments on the ER27. i've owned over 10 of them, regrease the timing pulleys, install new timing belt and water pump (all things you'd do to any engine including the EJ22) and it won't break down with proper maintenance. that being said it is more difficult to find a good condition ER27 because they are older and are more than likely to have been abused, maintained poorly, overheated, rotted out radiators that have run the motor hot, etc. if you're picking random motors, you'll have better luck finding a good EJ22 in that regard.

that's surprising, i've ordered many hudreds...probably thousands of dollars of parts from thepartsbin and never had one issue. i have an XT6 and i'm accustomed to everyone getting those parts mixed up, it's acceptable and expected for that car. but they have never sent the wrong part. how did they mess up and why won't they fix it? http://www.rockauto.com has great prices, but they always list the wrong parts for the vehicle you select so you have to read closely. for instance if i select XT6 it'll also list 4 cylinder parts with the 6 cylinder XT6 parts, kind of a confusing and less than friendly database they have, but maybe that's what keeps their prices down because they are cheap.

i'll start a thread, this will be my first complete rebuild so i'll need help. have almost everything i need except time!

definitely, valve job, valve stem seals and new headgaskets can do wonders for the running of the motor. do a compression and leak down test if you can and let us know what the numbers are. the blocks are robust, the head work you speak of can do wonders for bringing them back to life. if you're worried about compression and suspect the bearings are good (since the motor runs fine right) you can re-ring the pistons as an option as well. i haven't done that, but will need to when i build my new EA82 shortly. some good information on here if you're interested in that option. for instance, the pistons are removable without splitting the block. there's some info on this site detailing how to do it. i have to split the block since it doesn't have a crank in it, so doesn't matter to me. price the main and rod bearings and piston rings and see if that cost/labor is something you want to do. if not, just do a head job. head job is really easy and super easy to do in the car. i've done a couple EA82's and a bunch of 6 cylinder XT6 head gaskets in the car, you can be done in a day if you have a set of heads ready to roll. since i'm building an EA82 i've priced parts for it, i can post them later if you're interested and maybe we can compile the best prices. haven't found a good source for rings yet, the main and rod bearings seem to run 30-50 bucks a set, not bad at all. doing the work is the frightening part!

if you have lots of chain, just wrap it around the bottom of the cam carriers/valve cover area. or around the intake manifold. or use the alternator bracket. the XT6 has two brackets on it that are perfect (and possible there for that reason??) for this. one is connected to the alternator mounting bolt, the other resides on top of the passengers side head. big eye brackets that you can pass a hook or other attachment through. they tend to bend easily but work fine for that. not sure on the EA82, have'nt messed with those as much.

welcome Ray, i remember you from the yahoo XT6 groups years ago. funny how we see each other again. glad it's still chugging along for you, that's awesome! we've moved on to bigger and better things than yahoo, we have www.xt6.net now so check over there if you have any ER27 specific questions. have fun, Gary Gross maryland

that was a joke. i was comparing that long, drawn out process to swapping the trunk, ignition and lock cylinders instead of just getting a new key cut. it's the looooong way around, but it will work. an analogy of sorts.

find another EA82 in good shape and swap. no worries about making sure you find the leaks and fix them and can't imagine it would be too hard to find one with fewer miles. or reseal the motor, new head gaskets, seals, etc. why was the motor out of the car to begin with?

paul, what exactly are you looking for? gary

personel preference only. it is not necessary to remove the radiator for timing belt or engine removal. for me, i feel there's as much chance of damaging it trying to remove, lay around and install as there is to do the timing belt and engine removal. but if i'm doing the belts, i'm doing the water pump and thermostat too so breaking the coolant system open isn't why i woudln't remove the radiator. it's a step that's not at all necessary. personal preference. some people like the room, i've never needed it or ruined a radiator. now if you're not familiar with pulling an engine or feel you're on the liberal side of being careful then you might want to remove it so you don't run the engine into it. otherwise, i use a lift just fine. remove engine, disengage from trans, pull it straight up until it clears everything and roll it out, and you're done.

this post is from 2004......ha ha. someone used the search function, woo hoo! your location says "international" so it's kind of hard to say what a good price would be. $200-$300 for both axles i'd say. low is good, high is well..high. $150 seems to be the going rate for axle replacement in the areas i've lived in (close to the city).

that's normal. if you have the owners manual, read it and it will tell you. might want to pick one up if you don't have one.

you can, but you can cut a key much quicker than swapping all those parts. i'd much rather make one phone call, one stop at the dealer or read 5 numbers than doing all that work. swapping ignition is a pain, requires a good deal of work and drilling out the bolt (right angle drill helps sometimes with this). if you do that, you won't have a key for the rear seat lock. you could drain the trans oil, measure how much is in there to see how much you need to replace. then have it analyzed at a chemistry lab to see what kind of oil is in there to determine what kind you should use. or you can ask someone who knows or look it up in a book, much easier that way.