idosubaru

i started a thread awhile ago about my turbo to NA swap in a 1987.5 FT4WD XT Turbo that i'm converting to NA. the same info may be relevant to you, just opposite since you want a turbo.

should be a very easy swap to turbo then...just swap motors and you're done. keep your MPFI intake manifold. unbolt the intake manifold, hold it up and out of the way, pull block, install turbo block. add turbo intake and header and you're done.

agreed with junkyard axles. the OEM axles are very resilient, i've never broken one in 100,000's of miles of driving. but i've had reman'ed axles blow into bits. i've driven the stock OEM axles 50,000 miles with broken boots and clicking like hell...and still never broke. i retire them once they start clicking while i'm driving straight....i figure that's a good time to get new ones on there.

other subaru's are compatible, though i can't tell you which ones. post in the New Generation forum for more information on interchangability of model years. you can swap 2.2 liter motors into 2.5 cars without changing ECU's, so i'm fairly certain you should have a wide range of options.

so the bellhousing isn't an issue....this rear thrust thing though...what is that? never even heard of such a thing.

ran across this old message from the guy i mentioned a few posts back who programmed his own TCU for a 4EAT, thought some here might be interested. note the added functionality of controlling line pressure as well: "makes it possible to program line pressue (shift hardness) as a function of TPS (throttle position). It also makes it possible to shift by pushing buttons to manually controll the shift points. I am using a sparco steeringwheel that has two buttons in it, rightbutton to shift up, left button to shift down. It can also control front/rear drive bias. Which means that I can balance the car perfectly to get 4wd drifts through the corners. It has a display to show what gear you are in as well, just like the WRC boys."

ha ha, that's a funny way to state the truth. i agree.... diagnosing over the internet is hard enough....give us more details with some hotsauce on top. has it ever ran hot, needed coolant, etc? if i had to guess, it's leaking. pulled over to help a guy today with overheating/coolant loss issues. he was a mechanic, said he's had this car for quite awhile and couldn't figure it out. i laid out the headgasket issues to him, unfortunately.... this should be easy....does it use ANY coolant? if over the course of driving 1,000 or 3,000 miles it has any coolant loss, then it's the headgasket issue creeping up, period.

that's a good, solid motor. i'd replace the transmission fluid if it's an automatic and add an aftermarket transmission cooler if it only has cooling lines running through the radiator. cheap insurance. otherwise not much to look out for until timing belt maintenance around 100,000.

8 bolt bellhousing? aren't bellhousings swappable? i'm confused on that one, as i've only pulled older model soob motors/trans. rear thrust block what is that? the 97 and 98's are interference as well (just to clarify, i realize you know that shawn!)

i wasn't sure about parting out this 98 OBS, but if i do the ECU is there as well if that helps at all. i would need to know soon to get it out by this weekend, i'll be in morgantown the weekend of Jan 18th as well.

it's not a 20mm. 22mm i believe. (small chance of 19...but i think that's just the oil pan).

my parents dodge caravan my XT6 and impreza OBS

i'm not an EA82 master, but im about to swap an NA into a turbo (the opposite of what you're talking about) and it doesn't appear to be that difficult. almost a straight swap - just need new intake and ypipe for the exhaust to remove the turbo and that's it. your 87 might be carbed? i'll let someone else detail that as i dont know much about carbed. if it's MPFI it'll be an easy swap really.

good deal, follow the other suggestions and let us know what you find.

if it's isolated to one cylinder (use a mechanics stethoscope or long piece of balsa wood to listen), then it is certainly related to one or both HLA's at that cylinder. a compression test can sometimes verify this if it's bad enough. good compression all around and bad compression at the one noisey cyilnder will point to a bad HLA. i'm confident in diagnosing just by listening, so you should be able to do that. nice to know which cylinder that way you know for sure which to replace if you ever have to pull it apart. regular oil changes and MMO, Seafoam or ATF treatment often alleviates noisey HLA's....particularly if they "come and go". if they tick all the time, they may be permanently seized. get 'em early and you can get them clean with oil changes and the above recommendations. if you're leaking oil around the oil pump then that is a sure sign of oil pump issues. if all the HLA's are noisey then that's a good sign of oil pump issues as well. the mickey mouse gasket will essentially leak internally most of the time, so leakage isn't of great importance really. have you changed/checked the oil level recently. fresh oil change never hurts.

i sorted through 11 pages worth of searching and turned up nothing. if the intake manifold is the only difference, that would be nice as you can leave that in the car anyway to swap long blocks. i can't imagine the block or heads being different? maybe a dealer could answer this?

cool thanks guys! i'm buying a couple sets tomorrow.

anything is possible but if you're having bad preformance it is most likely related to the valves not opening/closing properly because the HLA's are not doing their job. best to track down the cause. you would want to know if it's oil supply related (oil pump seals) or HLA related (sticky/dirty). answering these questions will determine that. is it all over the place, or isolated to one side or cylinder? have you had any recent oil loss or leakage?

rebuilt with mitzpah is the way to go. now that the engine is together, pulling it apart to replace one lifter is labor intensive and not in anyone's best interest at this point. if it's put together well , running well, not leaking then there's no other reason to tear it down. this isn't that common and i wouldn't fault the rebuilder. i'm sure he would have used the rebuilt HLA's had he known about mitzpah ahead of time. you said, "if it's gummed up, it's bad"....that's true but not to the point it needs replacement. at this point i'd run seafoam, MMO or ATF in the oil for awhile. it can get "ungummed" for the lack of a better way of putting it. change the oil like a mad-man. if it's only doing it occasisionally then frequent oil changes should clear it up...this can take months though. MMO, ATF or seafoam will expediate the process. again....change your oil ALL THE TIME and your HLA's will treat you much better. i've pulled apart motors with 120,000 miles that were dirty and nasty with carbon build up and i've pulled apart motors with 200,000 miles that looked like they just came out of the factory, crystal clean with no build up. i attribute that to oil change intervals and driving conditions. did i mention you should change your oil alot?

agreed, i really like the air-ride better than any coil overs i've driven in. im' sure with some effort a good spring/strut combination would provide excellent feel, but not with the coil overs i've done and driven in. also agree on the orings, replace them all. lightly grease the new ones. they are all the same size, but there is one on each rear strut that is a different size than the rest. they are "under" the solenoid when you unbolt the solenoid from the rear strut. other than those two, the rest are all the same. so size match the ones on the front solenoids (easiest to get to) and buy a couple dozen or so. 1/4" OD 1/8" ID i think.

anyway to post those files here or email them? i can't sign in.... thanks for the pointers!

so the directions that come with it are adequate for someone that's never done it before? just needs to be mounted and run power to the unit right?

want to install some remote door locks in my cars and my parents. i understand i need to install the actuator only on the drivers side and then obviously it will activate the switch to unlock the others. how hard is this actuator to install, anyone do it, pictures? i can't picture what it would be attached to. drilling, all bolt on if i use the universal units?

or just don't worry about it? broken boot aint no thing. 50,000+ miles on front broken boots and more on the rears.....never had one break yet. that whole smoke thing is annoying, but once it's all thrown out it stops! might start clicking, just turn the radio up.

Yes, i've done it. it's very easy. i did it a year ago or more, so my memory of the exact details is limited. never use the FWD fuse, so i don't know what that does when i insert a fuse. as i said earlier this mod is awesome, one of the best and easiest things you can do to an auto soob. the thing is awesome in snow, mud, offroad.