idosubaru

yours only has two? if it worked with 2 before, it might work with 2 again? i have used one or two less per-side on my XT6 manifolds before with no leakage problems (they have dual ports on each side). anyhow, helicoil and use what you got if it worked before. unless you find an easy source for a manifold...but they you'll need another doughnet gasket at the rear flange too. i think XSNRG (whatever his name is) is selling some y-pipes for EA82's on the for sale forum, go check that out for a replacement (and ask for a 4 hole flange!)

Northwet was posting while i was. we wrote basically the same things on some stuff, regarding anaerobics, head preparation and the oil pan trickery.

the heads and block should be cleaned. i don't know that wire brushing is the best idea, but i have done it in the past. don't do it anymore. the scotch brite kitchen pads work well, but all in all it is certainly a task that sucks. you definitely want it clean because head gaskets are not the kind of job you even want to risk doing twice. the cam carrier doesn't have a formed gasket, it's from a tube like you said. use anaerobic sealant on this thing. anaerobic sealant dries without air (hence the name) and any excess will wash away by the oil, it won't get into anything and clog it. excellent stuff. kind of pricey, but worth it for applications like this. you can also get away with permatex gasket makers but i do not recommend that (but have done it in the past). there is also one metal reinforced o-ring at the lower corner of the cam tower at the oil port (one on each cam), replace this with a new o-ring from Subaru or www.thepartsbin.com is the only non-subaru place i've seen it for sale. do not reuse an old one. and if you use anything other than anaerobic sealant, be sure not to get any in this oil port, i know of one person that had to tear the motor back down and found this port clogged from using the other stuff (not anaerobic sealant). post a picture of the cylinder walls. i've torn down a couple motors with 200,000 miles and they were all in excellent condition with cross-hatching still visible and just a light coat of oil on the cylinder walls....a testimony to the rigidity of these blocks (mine were ER27, same thing as EA82 just 2 more cylinders). in any event, i'd get a picture up here for us to look at, sounds kind of different. might just be dirty or something? oil and water pumps don't need to be torqued that much, follow the specs. but make sure the bolts are all clean and the holes as well. dirty bolts and holes will give lower torque than you're reading. most people just torque these by feel, i've never heard of someone actually reading it that low, though im' sure people do. oil pans suck, they tend not to be flat and won't seal well in my experience. from here on out i put gasket maker on both sides of the gasket so im' not doing it again. the holes where the bolts are for the oil pan are typically indented slightly, giving bad clamping for even a new gasket. use a water pump sealant type stuff (very tacky) on both sides of the water pump gasket as well.

ha ha. no sweat. not familiar with a brat but pretty sure i'd just replace the tie rod ends. just mark it well so you can install the other exactly the same way, i believe it threads on so maybe you can count number of turns or just mark exactly how far it is threaded with something you'll be able to see later. you definitely want to replace these immediately, good items to replace on older cars. if they fail while driving that is a very very dangerous scenario. reminds me, i keep meaning to replace them on my 220,000 mile XT6.

hard is relative but control arms have never been much of an issue for me. again you'll need a big hammer to wail the knuckle off the ball joint though. other than that, just remove bolts (and spray with liquid wrench/pb blaster if necessary).

have a BFH ready to pound away at the lower crossmember to get it to free from the hub. might be a neater way to do it, but that's how i get it. the slot that accepts the ball joint in the hub has a slit in it i believe too and once you get the bolt out you can wedge a chisel in there and tap at it to help free it up as well. other than getting the BJ out of the hub it's straight forward (rust doesn't count!). if you suspect any rust on bolts then spray a day or two before you start with liquid wrench or PB blaster (don't use WD-40, not nearly as good). replacement is up to you. i like doing everything around the same time to keep track, but i keep my vehicles for ever too so i know i'll pat myself on the back for the reliability. if you want to save a couple dollars then don't, if you plan on keeping the car awhile then figure the other will fail at some point, might as well do them both so you don't need to go through the procedures again. it's not a failure threat as there is usually noise or wobbling around turns associated with a bad ball joint so it's not a reliability or safety concern if you don't (so long as you notice when the other starts to go bad). you sure it's the ball joint? mine have never made any noise when they start going bad, but i'm sure there are different failure modes.

first - replace the valve cover gaskets and see how the leaks do. if they just about go away then you just saved yourself alot of time. most of your leaks colud be the valve covers - they leak all the time on older soobs and they tend to drain towards the cam housings/motor mounts so much of what you see there could just be the valve covers. you will not hurt the motor by driving it with oil leaks. most 15 year old cars are leaking oil, no big deal. once you get to more than one quart every 1,000 miles that is significant in my oppinion, but i've had soobs leak more than that before and still drive them. the only bad part is keeping lots of extra oil on hand. if it's a gasket, in my experience it will never "blow" in terms of letting loose massive amounts of oil. if it's a seal (crank/cam), then it could blow and release lots (all) of your oil...but you've replaced all the seals so there's no or little chance you'll spring a leak large enought o blow the motor. i have seen a valve cover crack and leak profusely on start up but that was after i reinstalled a 100,000 plus miles valve cover gasket. i would replace the cam carrier sealant and valve covers with the motor in the car. that's an easy enough job that i couldn't imagine pulling the motor for it. you will need thick/quality grease to get the rocker arms to stay on the lifters when you reinstall the cam carriers. little tricky but compared to pulling a motor it's nothing. there's one reinforced o-ring at the bottom corner of the cam carriers that you will need to replace as well. subaru OEM part or get it at www.thepartsbin.com, that's the only place i've seen that carries it. it's like 2.13 from subaru (you'll need two, one for each side). and use anaerobic sealant on the cam carriers. if you do pull the motor, resealing cam and valve covers and oil pan won't take long at all. the oil pan will be the biggest pain as the old gasket is hard to remove and the pan will likely be uneven and not good for seating on the new gasket. i'd use sealant on both sides of the gasket or look around here for ideas. some people pound the oil pan flat again. i'd definitely work on this motor before putting in another unknown engine from the yard, these EA82's are very durable. cam carriers/valve covers are easy to do if you work on cars. good luck and have fun,

i second checking the alternator. there are only 4 or 5 fusible links you could try pulling each one of those until you locate the circuit it's on. then pull fuses like mentioned earlier as well. the only battery drain i recall anyone having in a soob was the trip computer/clock. is your trunk light off when the trunk is closed? radio?

ha, sorry about the approval process, we just started that not too long ago, a matter of weeks. too many bogus sign ups so there wasn't much choice. give your compressor 12 volts and see if it comes on. that will verify for sure if it works or not. even if it comes on it may not have enough pressure to work properly. or it might work but the computer is turning it off for some reason. i doubt it's "electrical" in the sense that it's a really tricky electrical short or wiring issue. it is most likely just a component of the suspension has failed - compressor, strut (height sensor or leak) or a solenoid or a leak at one of the oring or the computer. that's the list of issues to check. you can also go to the auto parts store and put together some fittings to adapt the top of your front struts to receive air from a regular air compressor. this way you can load the struts and see if they leak. don't really need to do that, but those fittings are really nice if you have an air compressor to work with. you would unscrew the existing fitting at the very top of the strut (either 10 or 12 mm fitting) and screw this adapter in its place. then blow it up at will.

derrick is right on the money. check out that thread if you're into preventative maintenance. i bought my current daily driver 4 years ago at 100,000 miles. i now have 220,000 miles and i've never replaced the air bags on it. they're fine. but the rubber does go bad, that's why i suggest maintaining them a bit if you want to keep them and don't want to buy replacements. the air strut is replaceable, just like any other strut. 3 bolts up top, 2 at the bottom (for the fronts), it comes out really easy. then the electrical and one air fitting. easy to replace. but they are hard to find and run 400+ new from the dealer. you can source them online for about 250 is the lowest you'll find a new one for. or buy used, again slightly tricky to find i like having a set of spares, but mine are all in really good shape. EA82 (XT Turbo and others) air struts will not fit on the XT6. i guess the rears might...but the fronts definitely won't. the air bags wear at the very bottom where they "fold" back on themself. this is where they contact the bottom of the strut. when the bottom of the strut gets a little rust, this rust is rough and gradually wears the air bag away and it will develop holes. i clean the rust up and paint them to keep them from doing that, never had to replace an air bag yet. another common failure point is the air compressor from coming on too often. if you have a leak anywhere and youre compressor is cycling on often then that will eventually burn it up and you'll be looking for a new (used) one. if you can keep your air bags from leaking and replace all your o-rings then you're setting yourself up for a good experience with your air suspension. there's an o-ring at every airline fitting (white caps with 4 prongs). if one prong breaks off it will still hold and seal, but try like the dickens not to break them, they do break rather easily. i think even 2 will hold if they are opposite each other. a thin piece of tubing with a slit along the length of it so it wraps around the air line is the easiest way to remove the lines without breaking the tabs. i've never done that, but it's a good idea, i always just use a screw driver with no problems. but next time i think i'm going the tube route to simplify things. anyway...replace your o-rings...they are 20 years old so it's not IF they will fail but WHICH ONES! just tear into it and replace every single one of them. the one on the rear struts requires removing the solenoid from the strut to replace the o-ring. i dig my air suspension and have had relatively few problems with it myself. regular struts would have fewer problems, but i can diagnose this system and have all the extra parts so no big deal to me. i installed the canadian height switch button too so now i can raise it up and down. like derrick said, go to www.xt6.net for more information, do a search and you'll come up with some stuff. was a guy in canada recently that had a terrible time with his, could not get it to work for anything. i sent him a new compressor and computer and it still wouldn't work?? that's certainly not common, never seen that before.

nothing should be damaged. normally this isn't a big deal at all. like just mentioend those splined stubby shafts just pull in and out. they are typically tough to get out, just require a little yanking. you can probably push it back in without even taking anything apart. just get under there and push it in by hand or use some tools to get some leverage. might get away without requiring any parts removal or anything. if you needed more axle play to get it in you could loosen the axle nut to give you more play. but i can't imagine you'd have to do all that. just get under there and press it back in. i would not keep driving it like this. i wouldn't drive it like this at all. the CV sholudn't have enough room to pull all the way out but at highway speed or torquing around a turn i don't want to know what could happen.

if you buy a bolt on hitch then it will bolt on easily. if you get a generic receiver and want to start drilling and welding then you can. easiest to find a made to fit assembly that bolts up. there aren't any for my old school soob so i have to drill and bolt myself. if you can't find a bolt on kit it would probably be best to pay someone else to do it. compared to the cost of the car the cost of this install is miniscule at most.

by swapping "it" you mean just the engine? if the pronoun meant the engine/trans assembly then you need more parts, but sounds like you got the answer you were looking for.

use a socket extension, the crank pulley is very tight, i would not rely on a screwdriver to hold without breaking. jam the flywheel (alternately you can put it in gear if it's a 5 speed). standard threads like just mentioned. use a large pipe over the socket handle or a breaker bar to get it off. it's a cast bolt and cast crank that it's threaded into so stripping the threads should not be an issue (ie it's not aluminum like some of the engine parts). if you can't get it, you need more leverage, something longer. pipe over the socket handle is my preferred method, works great. another option for the brave, is to let the socket wrench on the crank pulley and turn it until it rests against the lower motor mount. then crank the engine over real quick with the starter (don't start the motor, just bump the starter real quick - unplug the disty/ignition coil wire to prevent starting). the socket wrench will not go anywhere because of the engine mount holding it and the bolt will back out. i did it once about 10 years ago on my XT6 when i first started because i didn't know how else to do it, i was just learning the ropes. this can save much time on cars with horrible access to the crank bolt, but that's not subaru's, with the right tools it should come right off. remember how tight this joker is when you go to reinstall, you don't want the bolt to come loose while driving it will cause you all sorts of headaches. get it real tight. also always be sure to remove whatever it is you stuck in the flywheel when removing/installing the crank pulley. don't want to turn the motor over with something wedged in the flywheel.

agreed, they are servicable even if they are staked in. i've done it. but again it's a tedious process. i'm not sure what this means: "so this IS the authoritive silver bullet to the TOD?" the HVLA's are not a miracle cure for ticking. they are only if the HVLA's are causing the ticking. if your oil pump isn't properly sealed or is out of spec or you have a massive leak somewhere then you can install brand new HVLA's and still have a noisey engine. there is no one size fits all cure to HVLA noise. HVLA failure and oil pump seals/gaskets are the most common causes (the latter being the most common failure point in my experience). at 5 or 6 bucks each (even cheaper if you send your own in) it's definitely a no brainer to replace them while the engine is apart.

i'd guess: 35 for the driveshaft 55 for the rear diff rear CV axles - 30 for both. not sure what rear suspension stuff you're talking about? sounds like youre trying to convert to FWD? so you'd install a lighter transmission as well, that may be a significant as well. all told i think you could come close to that 200 figure above if you removed everything possible. if yo'ure looking for better gas mileage, weight won't make much difference if you drive mostly highway miles. if you drive lots of stop and go/city traffic then it might. i drive highway miles all the time and i've had no problem getting the same 27ish mileage whether i'm bone dry or carrying a couple hundred pounds...like 2 motors in the trunk and a full set of WRX wheels i had in my car for a couple hundred miles on monday. back when i was in college i'd pack everything i owned in my car from floorboard to ceiling and head off on my 700 miles treck. mileage was always the same as just driving with an empty car.

someone on XT6.net used their HVLA's on a completely rebuilt ER27 and seemed pleased with them. rebuilding them yourself is an interesting learning experience but otherwise time consuming and tedious. i've done a bunch, pretty sure i'll purchase the rest. cleaning them yourself definitely works and brings them back to excellent working order. i've never had TOD issues and all i've ever done is reseal the oil pump when needed. never needed to do anything fancy or any tricks or additives. i cleaned HVLA's when doing head gaskets as preventative maintenance. had two HVLA's fail (stuck), they were not serviceable. no amount of heat, ATF, DIESEL, MMO, soaking or prying would allow me to disassemble them. they were replaced with extra's i had and cleaned.

looks fine for fixing, not bad at all. i'm not a body person at all either, but things don't look terribly crumpled and twisted which is a good thing. if you want it to drive, then fix it. if you want it to look real good and everything to line up perfectly afterward then...well you can still do it, but it'll be tougher to get it perfect if yo'ure picky. i just fixed a friends honda, pictures here. though they don't show the hood crumpled and how far back it was pushed. (http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4605) finished that car today. didn't replace any body parts and it looks decent, better than i thought it would. i could replace the bumper and hood and one fender and that would help alot. the hood would be tricky to line up with the latch though as the latch is still back an inch or so (even after pulling it out and hammering and using two nuts between the latch and the radiator support to push it out. so, a new hood would be tricky to line up as it would stick out even further than the existing crumpled hood. i got the crumpled hood flattened out as much as possible and it doesn't look too bad. all in all so long as the motor lasts a couple months we may slap another hood and bumper on it, just run it for a couple months to make sure the motor/trans are okay before putting much $ into it only to find the head gaskets blew because the motor ran too long after the accident (uncle drove it an unknown distance after the wreck). i would drive this honda the way it is today, but i don't care much what a car looks like. i mean i like a nice looking car but don't like what it takes to keep them that way, so mine generally stay in well used condition. good luck,

don't think i'd re-torque head bolts after substantial mileage. i'd ask someone who knows (better than me) before proceeding on that. seems like a bad idea to loosen headbolts on a 20,000 mile motor.

so moosens, you wanna call that master tech now and see what he says? seems silly to reseal an entire motor and not replace that one dinky o-ring, particularly after seeing what mine looked like on the last one i took apart. it's like Ross said, it was very difficult to get out. but when i put it back in it was not very tight. definitely didn't seem nearly as tight going in as coming out. maybe i'll just smother the o-ring/sump end with anaerobic sealant next time, that's probably a decent solution.

good call on the depth of install. when installing the new seal be sure to oil the outside and grease the inside (where it will ride against the crank shaft. don't jam it home if it starts to go in cocked. keep it going straight in the whole time.

the oil sump that hangs down in the oil pan has an o-ring at the base where it's pressed into the block. anyone ever replace it? i replaced one on my XT6 and it was a BEAST to get the sump out of the block, like it's pressed in or something. was wondering if there's anything that needs to be done when reinstalling? picked up an EA82 today and am thinking about replacing that o-ring (the one in my XT6 fell apart and was the consistency of egg crate material when i pulled it out....although there was nothing wrong with the oil supply in the motor at 220,000 miles). maybe i should leave it alone?

carbed, SPFI, MPFI....are all EA82 block oil pumps identical and require the same seals/o-rings for a oil pump reseal? got a carbed block with turbo heads on it and want to make sure the oil pump parts are the same.

it gains you a good bit. the 3.7 drops the rpm's alot...like 750 RPM off the top of my head. makes a huge difference in gas mileage as well. my automatics get BETTER mileage than my manuals because they are geared much better for highway driving (i have all XT6's). they are basically the same but for all highway driving the auto gets 28 and the manuals get me 27 mpg. the difference in mileage would be much larger if it was comparing manual transmissions but the XT6 never had a 3.7 manual trans option. that's one reason i like the automatics, they are much quieter on the highways. get a 3.7 in your manual trans i would expect a decent gain in gas mileage and definitley quieter rides.

not all were AWD, there was a FWD (auto only) option as well. maybe you misread my post, i was asking if the XTTurbo FT4WD trans was the same as the AWD XT6 trans. sounds like the FT4WD XT works the same as the AWD XT6 trans. yep, i have the duty solenoid C switch installed. excellent little mod.