idosubaru

Are you looking for bigger or just to move the parking brake to the rear? The Nissan caliper swap is the common and easy way to move the parking brake to the rear and then go bonkers on your favorite front STi version infinity JDM imported 9 piston calipers. bigger rear EJ brakes is beyond me but I can’t think of anyone that’s done it and I don’t know if any adapters, I know someone that wants one right now so I don’t think they’re available.

+1. She didn’t check it if it was 2 quarts low. At two quarts low they don’t register 4 quarts. What happens at the upper range after an oil change of cold oil slowly coating the inside of a cold engine isn’t what happens when they’re low and only hot oil is draining back to the pan. That said clearly your burning oil and two quarts low is getting close to blowing the engine block.

Actually, I meant the opposite. I was asking meaning: “10 years of history clearly show there is none” for MS but there’s countless success stories, follow through, and data for an EJ swap or GDs option, not MS. If trouble shooting the more popular, easier, successful, and widely known option is problematic then it would be poor advise to move to a lesser option.

"ran strong" - maybe the engine and engine management were fine? "AFR's backwards"? could it have been monitoring/feedback related only and nothing to do with the engine/engine management? if the issue was impossible to diagnose did you test all the mechanicals - FPR, compression, leak down, valves, timing components...? does this other system have great support for completing your project? once you get a distaste it's understandable to want to scrap it all and move on, though if the original wiring wasn't installed correctly and couldn't be diagnosed, I might hesitate to install a system with less public support.

Replace the gas fill tube - cheap and can be replaced in 1-3 hours. Engine can be installed in any 1995-1998 Subaru except SVX and 1999 legacy and 1999 outbacks. 95 and EJ25 vehicles will require the exhaust manifold as well but seeing as you have the entire car that’s no big deal. There are a few changes and EGR-/nonEGR topics to consider if you’re in CA or require emissions or so t want the check engine light on....etc. but it’ll install and run and drive fine.

Well well look who it is, good to see ya again! How about a Dropbox link to a digital XT6 FSM? PM or email me and I’ll get that to you. I may have a stereo surround bezel. I’ve got a few but uncertain of condition. Maybe on the digital dash as well. Typically requires an XT turbo fuel sender for it to work properly as well. By dash bezel he probably means the stereo surround and not the entire dash nor instrument cluster surround. Jeff doesn’t have a stereo surround listed.

We glanced over your first question about the differences between 97-99 blocks, otherwise we would have gotten there quicker. It would have been simple but it took you 4 replies to find out which block you had. A "99 block" could be two different engines - a Phase II EJ25 (99 foresters and imprezas) or a Phase I EJ25 (99 legacy or outback). all this happens in 9 seconds in person and drags on online.

people comment regularly about spraying the underside of cars with used oil. i'm not sure how the process works though - how, how much, how messy is it...etc. find out what companies do that experience this routinely - UPS, post office, snow trucks...what do companies do that have millions to loose? i realize some of it happens at the concept phase - design, development, engineering, manufacturing. but does it end there? if i had conditions like that i'd do the best i can - oil/treatments/washers - and still just run an Old gen and replace it once it's rusty. what's the end goal: 1. drive an older gen subaru? (yay!) or 2. drive the same subaru for 20+ years? would be awesome to do both but if you had to pick one - most of us really want #1 when it comes down to it. I get it, it would be nice to save them and not trash them and maybe the west coasters see it as automotive nostalgic massacre, that might be true. i guess i'm reckless and a terrible curator of history and nostalgia but cars are hunks of metal to me. there will be a handful of amazing XT6's in a few decades but reality is it won't be mine. i might as well get a reasonable XT6 and run it for 10 years instead of jackleg smoker kid getting it and wrecking it in 3. if i'm fortunate and end up driving the pyramid of giza on wheels then i'll do what i need to do to have a 2nd sacrificial winter vehicle.

Got it. I’d still be suspect of the alt but sounds like you’re confident. People have said the ECU and TCUs also have a parasitic draw, if that’s true then you should still show something. But I’ve never verified if that’s true or not. There’s also glove box and trunk lights.

I bet it’s the alternator causing all this grief. Subarus sells alternators for $60-$80 for 96ish legacies. 0.00 means the test is inaccurate as all cars have a parasitic drain from computers, clocks, stereos, device memories, etc. You have to be really careful it’s easy to blow the meter fuses (or the meter itself) trying to measure milliamperes. If any light or system in the car was on (door open, etc) then the second you attached the cables the fuse or meter blew.

You’ll need to swap the rear differential as well to match the final drive of the transmission. Performance is worth considering if you tow, carry heavy loads, or live at high altitude mountains, etc. Outback may be heavier. In the end a known EJ22 has better odds than an unknown EJ25D. It’s arguably the best engine Subaru ever made compared to unarguably the worst. I agree an EJ25D isn’t bad necessarily, and can be good engines but it’s got some issues that don’t end well from cheap Craigslist’s specials.

Not sure if you can get sensors but maybe find the cheapest intake manifold or core engine and ask. Www.car-part.com

$65 is high. You can get one cheaper they’re not worth much, but demand is so low few people bother trying to sell them. I’ve got a few lying around by I don’t think for an EJ22, just one on a complete manifold that’s for an engine build so not gonna remove it. Post in parts wanted section someone may have one. I’ve got a bunch but 90s stuff is all rusted away and not worth holding onto around here for me.

it was a joke. didn’t think anyone would take cereal box cardboard and some wire seriously.

+1 swap in another IAC, you want to track the known issue.

let’s see if we can do this free - cut a thin piece of cardboard as a form and then strip some wiring laying around the garage and wrap the cardboard for a free copper gasket?!

thanks for putting up with those questions, that makes perfect sense and isolates (I think) the issue specifically.

Does any of this change depending on: 1. which model? 2. if it has EA or EJ knuckles (are they offset differently)? 3. lifts or is the track width difference all chassis - between strut towers? why are EJ knuckles and axles usable when they're also from a wider track width vehicle? i think i know the answers but wondering how you guys would answer. stock knuckles or have you swapped?

You can probably google it for a more thorough information as I'm just repeating what I've heard, but there's no local market for those engines in japan because I think of their laws, tax, and vehicle structures. So they're worthless over there, but not here. They're low mileage but really they don't know the mileage on any engine - it's essentially a large island so it's all local short trip mileage. Very common option, I'm swapping in a JDM trans right now, it's on the floor and the trans is all unbolted and ready to drop. The later EZ30's are just like you said - additional valve train solenoids and systems. They're essentially the original EZ30 with additional bits and a few internal changes. The newer EZ's are $1,500+. price will like be hitting $1,000 or lower soon as they're starting to age now. The first EZ engines/trans used to be similarly expensive but as time goes on prices drop.

I’m not one to listen to with performance suspension stuff but if cornering and lifting tires is an issue a lift kit doesn’t sound (to an uninformed guy like me) like the best mix.

support your subaru friends - USMB parts wanted forum www.car-part.com ebay

+1 don't take it all apart. I get them seated without any disassembly by tapping around the perimeter of the CV cup with a piece of 2x4 and hammer after making sure it's as far as you can go by hand and making sure it's aligned properly. and like he said - never seen/heard of EJ hubs stripping either and the cutoff for legacy/outback is 2005+ for not having pins/stubs.

He’s right the EJ is fine and maybe even a better candidate in some ways. Just get one in good condition and well maintained. The 2000-2009 EJ25s with original factory installed headgaskets are rather simple, they just start leaking externally and get worse over a long period of time. No big deal - no overheating, no oil and coolant mixing, no symptoms, so you can keep driving it with zero concern. You’ve literally got months to plan your repair so there’s no reliability risk and done right you won’t ever have to do it again. In those terms the EJ is less “risky”. The EZ 6 cylinder engines have fewer issues but they are more likely to cause overheating and require immediate attention. The 00-09 EJs with original headgaskets don’t strand you or overheat, they just slowly leak externally. So those are a great option in those terms particularly do someone like you who seems knowledgeable and mechanical enough to pay attention and make good decisions.

To get through winter find the fuse that’s causing it and pull it out or toss that fuse on a switch conventinetky installed. That’ll get you through a winter easily without much effort. I had a pair of small needle nose on my drivers side floor one winter just to get to summer when it was more convenient to troubleshoot.

LMAO @ 6am hahahahaaa