idosubaru
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Everything posted by idosubaru
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How was that wire broken? They usually break due to improper maintenance or an impact of the transmission pan. The solenoids easily crack as well. Is it possible that another wire or solenoid is also cracked? Clearly one can break but so far all the ones o have seen have been multiple solenoid and wire breaks. Also that bad wire may have damaged the torque converter - someone more versed in them should comment on that. It is imagine it could generate additional ATF heat.
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What did the store say when you inquired with them? warranties explicitly prohibit damage or liability caused and only apply to the part itself. So you’re out of luck there. You’d have to file and take them to court which I would highly recommend not doing in this case. I would try disconnecting the TCU either at the TCU under the dash above the gas pedal or the large connector at the rear of the engine bay on the passengers side. This forces it into purely mechanical mode and uses no electronics to control the trans. Sometimes you can limp a trans around in this way. It’ll be in 3rd gear, locked in 4WD and no lock up but it’ll drive. I installed a switch to switch between FWD and “locked” 4WD and drove a ar like this for a long time in 3rd gear only. If the flexplate cracks the engine turns but the transmission does not. Pull bellhousing access plug under throttle body and try to figure out if the flexplate is turning in synch with the engine. Also - I’m wondering if there’s possibly an issue inside the transmission that is breaking the axles? Maybe you should pull the front axles, lock the 4WD and see if it’ll drive in RWD if there’s a chance the front diff is hosed, I doubt this is the case but I don’t have a clear picture of what’s going on. which part of the axle exloded and how? How do you know it was the wrong axle? Can you post a picture of it - that would help.
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I would move on. Ideally you fix it. Install a used trans, $300. Craigslist, www.car-part.com 1. I doubt it’s the fault of the part or Store and I’m the odd event that it is it’s going to be nearly impassible to prove and pursue. 2. The limited and incongruent information in this thread make helping a challenge for us I say that in order to help you move on. You likely don’t know the level of Subaru specific experience on this board, you would be hard pressed to find this level of expertise anywhere. That’s why I’m here, to learn. But since the vehicle can’t be seen or touched, The more accurate your info the more they can help. The transmission had no issues but had a broken wire? 95 and 96 axles aren’t interchangeable - where are you getting that from because it’s not true or I’m forgetting something. You never told us the name of the store, axle brand, or part numbers to help cross Reference possible issues. Pictures of the offending axle would help. And then the mention of the part having play and looking wrong, I was confused there as well.
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cracked flexplate. Borked trans. 95 and 96 axles are interchangeable.
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A failed axle will certainly cause the output shafts of the transmission to just spin and confuse the computer as the open diff will just want to spin that shaft with no resistance. Right. If 1 out of 20 axles are bad - that's terrible, but you'd have 19 good axles. If a favorite gas station pumps leaked and blew gas all over clothes 1 out of 20 times someone got gas - they'd eventually get livid and say it's unacceptable getting eyes burned and smelling like gas all day. Sure - there would be 19 perfect experiences - but one out of 20 is atrocious. That's what the aftermarket axle situation is like. It's a high percentage failure, no one is saying it's every single axle. If anyone wanted to learn how bad this issue is - they can Google it and could never read all the "my axle failed" threads in a life time. It's well known and highly documented. What brand axle and parts store is this? I'm not saying it isn't possible, but information on a parts store computer is often misinterpreted. 17 isn't many axles in 3 years. I've never been a mechanic or am paid to work on a car and I might have done 17 axles in 3 years before. how do you know that information - who, and how was it, looked it up? were all of those Subaru axles? were they all sold by that individual who looked up that data? how does that person know none were ever returned? do national chains counter employees have access to information like that? the small mom-and-pop shops often don't get returns for a variety of reasons. Ive seen it multiple times and I'm sure I'm not alone. how many miles were put on them? - if they supply used car lots they won't get many returns.
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also you could just get the correct part: www.car-part.com
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What he said - if you're willing to loose ABS then yes you can sway away. If the tone rings have the same number of teeth you could maybe splice the 92 sensor onto the 00 sensor plug. It only needs to see the pulses from the tone ring and if they're the same number of teeth then it might work? I've always wanted to try it but never had a situation that needed it.
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Aftermarket axles fail all the time, i've seen brand new axles explode multiple times - in 50 yards, 60 miles...multiple times, this is not new or different, or a mistake they made. You just bought crap axles and are currently working towards installing another junk axle which will probably be better than that but still suck like a vampire just in time for halloween. www.car-part.com i've bought tons for $15-$30 before, cheaper than you're getting those junk axles blowing up on you. get a green inner cup axle - which means it's an OEM Subaru axle - and reboot it. You can try to be cheap and run the existing axles for now. don't get any axles that are black ,grey, tan, etc - get an OEM axle which is a green inner joint. this one looks like it has a green inner joint: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Axle-Shaft-00-01-02-Legacy-Front-Axle-2035857-/322745023154?fits=Year%3A2000%7CMake%3ASubaru&epid=1637430784&hash=item4b251a3ab2:g:P~gAAOSw6Q1ZuqZw&vxp=mtr Also get 00-04 Outback axles, they have better boots and install right into your 1996 Outback. Just tap the outer tone ring off with a hammer. (the thing with dozens of teeth around the outer joint, it just taps right off, you don't need that on the 96). OEM axles if rebooted last the life of the vehicle, replacing them is a terrible decision (and I'm understating that).
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is the trans repairable? if the wire was "severed" - then fix the issue before junking a good transmission. www.car-part.com for cheapest transmissions around you. essentially any 1995-1998 automatic transmission will work in your vehicle with these conditions: 1. match the final drive ratio to yours (that means you need to make sure it's from a 2.5 liter legacy, outback or 98 impreza, 98 forester) 2. Or use any transmission and swap the rear differential to match final drive ratio 3. Or use any transmission and run it FWD.
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You have overheating and need headgaskets. Okay, just kidding, why are you having problems navigating the forums? I can only guess? Read the list of forums here here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/ One says "1990 to present Legacy...Outback" - under Newer Gen forums, which includes 1998 Outbacks. Post in that forum, here's a direct link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forum/44-1990-to-present-legacy-impreza-outback-forester-baja-wrxwrxsti-svx/ Post a new thread like you did here and tell what you need.
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As a matter of principle then Toyota’s are ruled out: http://www.toyotaproblems.com/trends/excessive-oil-consumption/ https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/magazine/2015/06/excessive-oil-consumption/index.htm As are Honda’s: https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2015/05/honda-accord-cr-v-warranties-extended-for-excess-oil-consumption/index.htm As are Audi’s, BMWs....not that anyone caring about reliability should be buying those LOL basically all the top manufacturers, and more, are now ruled out on principle.
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that makes this about as easy as diagnosis gets - it has bent valves. verify it first of course.
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The short block is nice but: 1. they may not honor the warranty if this is a DIY install at home or by an untrained mechanic. Warranties sometimes explicitly state ASE or whatever mechanics/shop installation only. Normally I wouldn’t even flinch but that price tag and item I might look into how that works a little closer. 2. I’d make sure you get those heads cleaned. If installing on a $$$$ block I’d be inclined to just get another set of used heads if you can find a set that wasn’t run low on oil for reasonable enough cost.
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Buy a used OEM axle and reboot it. Www.car-part.com Lifted off-road rigs break stub shafts and axles. Are you off-roading or clutch dumping a Crawford tuned special? Aftermarket axles have any and every issue known to man. Front or rear? What do you mean by cylinder - the shaft, something inside the joint or the stub shaft?
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We can help if we have car info, boyfriends and money can’t help us help you. I’m not trying to be a dork, just trying to drill down to information. When you say “misfire at a light” are you just guessing it’s a misfire or do you have codes or can you describe symptoms exactly? What do you mean “at idle” - what happens while driving? What code(s) does it have? How long before they come back if cleared? What brand plugs and wires? I’ve seen new wires cause misfires right out of the box on those engines if they’re cheap. Use NGK, OEM, Magnecor or something else documented good quality for subarus. How were the valves when you adjusted them? We’re they tight and which ones?
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Actually I’d do that test by braking while coasting first, I can’t tell what you’re experiencing but sure sounds like you’re decribimg stopping a non running Subaru.
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I would bleed. Then look at the booster. Your description sounds like braking in a Subaru without the engine running. No vaccuum, poor booster performance: 1. Check vacuum line to booster. Maybe it’s clogged or leaking? 2. Try braking with the engine not running (coasting down a hill), if the performance isn’t a drastic change then the vacuum/booster needs looked at or someone more versed on those cam comment, they rarely fail and I’ve never seen it. Again I don’t know how to test those though. Can you measure MC output or booster performance? Seems highly unlikely it’s the calipers to me, if they’re rusted to scrap then replace but otherwise I’d look elsewhere for your issues. Brake hoses I’ve seen fail on multiple American cars (and I don’t even work on them) but very rarely on subarus, I’ve never seen it happen which is odd because I’m around plenty of 80’s subarus and the american cars I see it happen too are much newer. The hoses collapse internally and during braking the internal collapse functions like a valve and doesn’t allow fluid back out of the MC so the pads keep clamping the rotor even when you take your foot off he pedal. Very funny seeing that for the first time. Jack up car. Brake - let off - can’t turn wheel - crack bleeder - wheel turns - brake - let off - abt turn wheel....etc. I’ve never heard of other failure modes besides leaks and even this internal collapse isnt common.
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Sounds like wheel bearing. Buy a used knuckle and avoid the ball joint and wheel bearing conundrum. Www.car-part.com If you’re still unsure I would do the ball joint first as that’s clearly an obvious issue and that is not a part you want shearing while driving. The Subaru units are extremely robust, if one is failing that is alarming. Yes there’s just one ball joint per side on Subaru’s. Pickle fork removes joint from control arm. Removing from the knuckle can vary wildly. Not knowing your situation it’s hard to guess. Some would be easy for familiar folks but difficult for others, some are next to impossible to remove by any method you hear. There’s literally no tool that can remove every ball joint though maybe some snap on stuff could get 98% of them. rust welded joints that shatter to pieces before pulling the entire ball out of the knuckle - they shatter and then you’re left chiseling/drilling the rust layered remains of the ball joint head left behind in the knuckle which takes forever. That’s rare but an example of the wide range of difficulty possible and how limited tools can be. If you can get a good enough tool (which few have) the metal can just shear/shatter apart. Remove pinch bolt. Chisel the opening. Soak in PBBlaster or Liquid Wrench for as long and as much as you can. Then good luck and hope you don’t have a real nasty outlier. If they’re real bad I’ll stick a chisel up just flush to the knuckle and try to get some downward impact on it with a large chisel and large hammer-small sledge. Work your way around 360 degrees around the perimeter. it would be difficult to prove the axle caused the wheel bearing issue. wheel bearing failure is not rare.
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Drain the fluid - if it's clean with no debris/particulates then it's fine. Subaru rear diff's never fail. They're mechanical systems so of course it happens but those are outliers.
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96 and 97 are the same transmission, completely interchangeable, only variance is going to be the final drive ratio. If the 96 and 97 final drive ratio is the same - swap the transmission. If the final drive ratio is different then swap the trans and rear diff to match. Alternately you could assume they're the same final drive, swap the transmission. If you get binding, then swap the rear differential.
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Just make sure you confirm it. Sounds like you did by pulling the cables, but I'd try again just to be sure. Terminals, corrosion, battery can fake people out. But yeah sounds like alternator to me. You don't say what vehicle/year but Subaru sells alternators for 1995-1999 EJ Phase I vehicles for like $70-$80. They're typically way more expensive than that. I avoid aftermarket alternators, they're low grade. I'd run a used OEM alternator (and have) before aftermarket.
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Is there anyway to test MC output? Google it? DIY test, backyard hack test....?
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Change the fluid Change it again? Haha Clean and regrease slides Check pad clips and make sure they’re not bent, corroded or massive build up. Seems unlikely those would affect enough of 4 different calipers to inhibit braking that much though.
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Replaceing the engine in 92 L series
idosubaru replied to grinner050's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
What is “L series” - I guess previous post tells us it s an EA82? Is it TOD: HLAs tucking? EA82s routinely have HLAs ticking, inaccurately dubbed TOD, I have an entire thread written up about it - search it and read it: 1. Ignore it. You can drive it essentially indefinitely with TOD. 2. Reseal the oil pump 3. Replace the oil pump. 4. Replace a failed HLA if that’s the issue. I’ve fixed every one with one of those steps. Apparently they could also make noise if there are cam carrier orings leaking or other issues but they’re likely resigned to higher mileage’s or abuse or rare. -
you can switch to synthetic, though i wouldn't worry about that too much until you get all the issues under control. fresh fluids. timing kit needs installed - the pulleys and tensioner are prone to fail as well, so i'd get that on your radar screen. the lower toothed idler is by far the most common to fail and the one that goes catastrophic the quickest. it's an interference engine so your valves will bend if it breaks. as to your smoking issue: 1. check fluid level - where is it now? 2. look for leaks - you said behind pan - that implies the shaft seal is leaking at the back of the transmission. they'll drip right from under where the driveshaft slides into the transmission, dripping off the outer cylindrical protective cover of the driveshaft entry point. look there or post a picture.
