idosubaru

1988 Subaru XT FSM shows no lower rubber spring seat, so it would just sit on the strut. Is that right or should there be a lower rubber spring seat? almost positive I've seen it both ways in the past so which way is "right"? Seems like it should have one. It'll give me a 0.02" lift right?!

Also the Subaru FSMs are all over the Internet for free. So is the EJ25D timing belt: The following will all have the same EJ25D timing belt procedure: Any 1998 Forester or Impreza RS EJ25 1996-1999 Legacy or Outback EJ25 Get an FSM for any of those and the timing belt is identical.

EJ22s are a cheap in some areas, easily bought for less than the $300 tool you're talking about. Www.car-part.com. Last one I bought was a more expensive low mileage unit from a local reputable place for $350, cheaper ones were available. By the time you buy headgaskets, more expensive belts, and repair an EJ25D it barely makes sense even cost wise....forget overheating and reliability. No interference, cheaper parts, easier to work on, no headgasket issue, great engines.... you can sell the original engine and recoupe half or more of your costs, less the core cost. I assumed you'd eventually figure out you should check the tensioner. Pull the timing belt covers and run it with no timing covers - you should see the timing tensioner moving. It doesn't take long at all. Like 30 minutes. If finances are a concern - diagnose it first then decide what to do. Don't guess. But yes if you repair - get a timing kit with pulleys and tensioner. Generally you need Subaru parts for quality. Gates was a go to brand that included largely OEM pulleys but that seems to not be the case now. EJ water pump failure is rare but at that mileage a new one is wise. An EJ25D timing belt can be replaced in less than an hour...granted first timer and more parts will quickly escalate that but don't let this scare you. They're easy.

Head rebuilds are easy. GD meant rebuilding the block probabiy would be problematic and limited shelf life. Another option is to buy a used head for $50-$100, resurface and swap it out.

Oh yeah, you know that's easily repairable. Enjoy!

Call around and don't quit looking so easily. Whoever answered the phone and pushed some computer buttons doesn't necessarily know the national supply and market.

They can fail but it's very rare. So rare that most people guessing, guess wrong and end up with a broken car and two ECMs. No power to the ECM sounds wiring related.

Also make sure it's not something else or simple like heat shields or a pulley bearing or belt issue? How positive are you it's related to the block? Have you popped the hood? I've seen the lower bellhousing plates being belt cause tapping that varies as well as the teeth in the TC hit it like spokes in a tire. Tapping stops and tapping not being heard can be interchangeable so that's not an easy online diagnostic aid.

There are companies that will make the boots or supply from existing database if you give them dimensions. I forget names but google wouldn't.

OEM axles. Used are a dime a dozen just buy a few at a time. $15-$30 each easy. Www.car-part.com If you want to reduce issues drop the diff an inch.

On that engine Piston slap is an order of magnitude more common than other possibilities. Timing tensioners can sound nearly identical to rod knock. The ones I've seen fail knock, not rattle. Have you use a stethoscope yet to identify bouaento left, right, front, rear, or center?

How much did it cost you and what kind of MPG?

Rusty exhaust is a pain and as much an art to repair as a science. Probably part of the reason I suck at it. You can buy cheap flanges and pipe and make your own stuff. I've bought matching flanges and gaskets and welded those flanges to pipe to make your own exhaust. Tough getting it all to line up and be flush. If you just need an OEM flange to marry to your current exhaust maybe someone in a western state can cut one off and mail it to you. Then you can attach it with pipe/clamps or weld. Or maybe even mail you the whole thing if you're lucky. Www.car-part.com. Look up western state exhaust parts and call and ask if they'll cut off flanges for you? They make some snazzy flanges you can bolt to a vehicle. But those can be pricey and hard to find.

http://www.sjrlift.com/index.php/catalog

Thanks guys. Ended up being a weak fusible link, was still "together"ish but was broken just from wear, not heat. Thanks for arming me with what I needed. Got it fixed, 3 hour ride home will be nicer.

Thanks. Cursory check shows fuse and fusible links good. I'll check switch first and give it 12 volts or ground to get home if I can find those wires/pins. Yes XT trims come off really easy, done it 50 times, everything is right behind there. I have basic tools and wire so I can rig something temporary.

if the drivers side switch doesn't work, does it take out the passengers side switch as well? I would think the passengers side still works? None of mine work so I assumed it was something other than the motors or switches.

Thanks, maybe I won't dehydrate! Great - right the motor is way simpler than the switch, perfect! Two pins - do I ground the pin or give the pin 12 volts? I may have a multimeter with me, if so ill check first. Copy - I'm almost positive the motor is good. Both sides are inoperative and some minor electrical weirdness.

Windows won't go down and I'm out of town traveling for work in my XT6. Roasting like crazy. Do I just find the power window pin and ground one or give it 12 volts ? If anyone knows the pin let me know.

That absolutely is not known. You don't know the mode of failure: 1. Pulleys do fail - crank pulleys separate and bearing based pulleys loose grease and fail. That's not on the shop. 2. If the pulley wasn't installed properly or the "bump the starter method" was used - then maybe it's on the shop. What we know is "the pulley failed" - which is too ambiguous to say anything about. ***How*** did it fail? It would help you a great deal to focus on facts and details: A. If you suspected issues - you should have popped the hood, posted here, taken pictures, or taken it to a shop for a quick check. B. If it failed - you should have looked, taken pictures of the actual failure (so we have data and not opinions) to help you C. If it failed - and you have gotten it fixed you should have told us what the repair involved and gotten the old part back to investigate. as it is - you didn't give complete evidence or information for us to tell what happened and are immediately blaming the shop. You'd be in a much better position to focus on facts and data. It would help you out in the long run. if the pulley separated - they can bang it back flat and tack weld it back together. easy, zero parts costs, and very little labor. takes 15 minutes. but they might not know that - so don't call them liars and cheats for not doing that, that's sort of a back yard hack, not a qualified shop repair.

people do that to loosen stuck wheels as well. slightly loosen lugs and drive.

+1 to GD - EJ doesn't matter and EA there's just two spline counts, get the correct one.

I hear your confusion - I've seen countless ground wires disconnected with no running issues. You can totally disconnect grounds and the car drives fine. 1. I've seen that like a hundred times 2. I've never yet encountered a Subaru with ground wire issues except in the battery cables. In my experience the odds are heavily stacked against finding your issue on a ground wire id check the alternator and brake bulbs first. Battery cables are commonly problematic but I can't see them causing those issues while running.

+1 top camber bolt for alignment is front struts only on newer gen Subaru from 1990 until present.

Sounds like you are but You're absolutely positive it's fully charged and not loosing any pressure at all?