idosubaru

i'd expect them to be plug and play - particularly if they were on the drivers side. by this year they don't have the side impact air bags in the seat any longer right? those moved into the interior trim panels I think.

I wasn't able to get a clear answer if they did any specific tests - maybe just because the guy i was talking to didn't work on it, he was reading and fumbling with paperwork on the phone. but i was suspecting it's a misdiagnosis. my hesitancy is because she's gotta drive like 6 or 7 hours for me to work on it next weekend so i'd hate to be wrong and second guess someone that actually drove, looked at, read codes, and spent some effort diagnosing it.

Friend of mine lives a few hundred miles away and the shop said she needs a new engine due to a cylinder misfire yesterday. Light came on, no drivability issues, 145k. Plugs/wires are unknown, timing belt replaced already. I spoke to them on the phone and they said they "tested all the sensors and spark plugs and wires" - but didn't say how. They said it's intermittent so it can't be the plugs/wires, and they found some service bulletins on hanging valves. That doesn't seem like enough to go on to verify a hanging valve, but it's possible the guy I talked to wasn't the guy doing the work. Check engine light came on, no drivability issues. It's like 145,000 miles and spark plugs and wires are unknown. Timing belt was replaced a few years ago. I'm thinking it's just plugs, wires, and maybe oil in the spark plug tubes from the valve cover gaskets. As of now she's driving 6 hours next weekend for me to work on it.

so you'd recommend it for all 2005+ stuff with variable timing components?

Oil choice doesn't matter on average daily driver non-turbo Subarus - follow the owners manual. cars101 has all the maintenance information or get an owners manual, it would be good to have for other things as well - fluid types, capacities, tires, fuse locations, etc. Just follow the guidelines there, though they may "recommend" synthetic it's by no means required. Even on newer FB engines I wouldn't be all that compelled to run synthetic even if it's required. Heavy towing, racing, turbos' - use synthetic and never deviate. Synthetic oil is excellent stuff - but that's only part of the equation. Excellent properties - and whether those properties actually do anything in an average car are two different questions. Most people do a really terrible job making that distinction - they just choose one side or the other and stick to it like politics. There are two beneifts to synthetic oil in an average daily driver Subaru - one is practical the other far fetched. The practical benefit to synthetic is longer change intervals which you're not doing if you stay at every 3,000. The other benefit of synthetic is the "extra protection". But just saying something is true doesn't mean it carries any weight. I could argue that "waxing your car every day and inflating tires an extra 5 pounds makes engines last longer - less resistance, less drag, less work on the engine, less wear - and just based on facts and physics that statement could carry some weight. but otherwise it's meaningless. synthetic oil benefits reltaing to reliabiity and longevity often fall pretty close in line with that kind of argument. True but an inaccurate depiction of reality. Subaru's routinely run 300,000 on whatever is on sale, so there's no extra protection needed. There's enormous decades of hundreds of thousands of subarus/vehicles that bear that out. Let's describe an instance where it's "better properties" would help: The car randomly runs out of oil with no drips, no smokes, no noises, no smells, NO symptoms, no warnings, and all that happens immediately and quick enough to do engine damage....but....you happen to stop the engine in the 34 millisecond magical range after conventional oil would have failed to protect the bearings...but before they would have failed anyway with synthetic oil. so if you want to mitigate 0.00008% risks then yes buy synthetic, replace your tires yearly, make as many right turns in life as you can, and replace your timing belt every 50,000 miles. The "my synthetic oil car will last longer than yours" type people tend to congregate at bobistheoilguy and subaruoutback forums if you'd like to see some information convincing you of the prowess and superiority of synthetic oil. Steering: I think Subaru's in general do seem tight, but not sure if you have an issue or just normal.

nice hit. replacing tensioners and pulleys to or just the belt? i'd do it all while they're in there. do you still want my VTD bits!?? lol

LT - LOL! Rainbow Tire in Morgantown and a big place in Fairmont right south of town on the main road there usually have some used tires, though they rarely have the 16" common Subaru sizes, but yours being 17"+ may have less demand?

Hey OP we're in the same area, it didn't show location last night on my phone though Goshen caught my attention. If you do replace - i might buy the 3 used tires from you for a few bucks. I concur, I was trying to demystify the tire replacement boogie man and missed the specific situation here, thanks Chux. if the OP's tread measurements are correct they're on the low side of life and performance, and winter is coming. There are rare situations where replacing one is a good choice here, but for most average daily driver needs a 4 tire replacement is the way to go and the expected recommendation here.

headgaskets can leak externally - check lower mating surfaces - they're either leaking or they're not. timing belt - it could already be past the timing belt maintenance, 105,000 miles or 105 months, you'll hit it by time before mileage. granted it would be very early and issues unlikely but not a risk you want to take either, it should be changed at some point in the coming future. if it's a dealer selling it - maybe they'd work on that since it's due and absolutely necessary. if you have it done - timing belt, pulleys, and tensioner are needed (water pump isn't necessary on those, but some people opt to do them). ready to leave the audi brand novelty and driving experience? if not, dissatisfaction might be easily found.

The replace all 4 idea is a one size fits all approach that has wisdom associated with it due to mechanically inept public and consumers but it is not technically true nor accurate. 1. Buy one tire and have it shaved down to match. Call around locally or I think tire rack or another online retailer provides that service. This is the best option if it's a good fit for a given situation. 2. I buy two new tires and run them in the position that wears the fastest and they eventually catch up to the older ones...assuming they're not really low which the question implies. 3. Used tires are available on craiglsita and eBay. 4. I don't recommend this but if we want to be thorough - If you don't have an LSD rear you can install one new on the front and another new on the opposite side rear. This makes for convoluted rotating issues in the future. 5. Autos with FWD fuse could install the fuse and have options that way.

I haven't seen enough sample size to make a good picture of what's happening. The few I've been around haven't had any issues. I'm not sure what the percentages are but quite a few dynamics are making this complicated and inciting consumers which doens't help internet publicity. Makes it hard to see the scope of the issue. But Subaru is replacing engines for people when necessary and offering extended warranties. I don't think it's only Subaru engines, though maybe more pronounced. I would just use heavier weight oil than the recommended 0w-20. there are subaru owners documenting less/no consumption with thicker oil and then there's this: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2013/07/consumer-reports-sees-oil-vanish-from-some-test-cars/index.htm

why would you want an XT6 when you can get the same HP from an EJ22...and it's cheaper, more parts available, newer, OBDII... If you're all game to make it fit -the XT6 engine is easy to make a reliable daily driver - excellent reliability and very predictable/simple. What would be nice to have new is oil pump and timing bits - Timing pulleys - buy new bearings and have them installed or just grease the pulleys every so often, that's what i do. Easy, cheap, and reliable. Timing tensioner - those fail so rarely, i've never even seen a failed one on the 20 or 30 XT6's i've owned - i'm sure it happens but just buy 3 used ones and you're good for the life of the car. Oil pumps are probably getting scarce and pricey - that's a tough one. All the sensors fail so rarely just get used ones when needed or stock up ahead of time - knock sensor, TPS, distributor (it houses the crank angle sensor). The typical corroded water temp sensor is the same plug as a generic fuel injector and alternator plug that crumbles is also an easily found generic, can replace those with new. Two very common problems as the connectors age. Easy fixes. Address that stuff - seal the valve cover gaskets/grommets and cam seals and these things make another 100,000 miles without much maintenance or issues...if it's a decent motor to begin with. But the others are right from a pratical sense - there's almost no positive side or reason to do it. There are better engines and it's not even cheap?

that's awesome! you guys are hysterical!

i know, so lazy isn't it?

How about EZ36 engine - no $1,000 timing belt maintenance and unlikely headgasket concerns. FB engine avoids those too but you won't like the oil consumption information. Every vehicle has a greater than zero probablity of expensive repair, but i understand the sentiment you're conveying.

the 2010+ is rated 2mpg better gas mileage. relative in Ohio gets awesome mileage in his, he is in low or mid 30's in his, though he drives very conservatively and very flat. how about a newer one with the FB engine and better gas mileage? 2012+ outbacks. outback makes sense. you'd have to make sacrifices but you could make a legacy work if needed. get a hitch and carrier or trailer if needed for trips/loads/gear. i much prefer my outbac but i do use it very practically. we've gotten rid of two sedans which i've loved but they're just not practical for a family of 5 that plays.

techincally speaking i think you measure clearancs and follow the FSM as there are three different variations of rotors (A, B, and C maybe - does yours have a stamped letter on the face?). get the FSM and see the spec's it calls for? what's the history - why are you disassembling it?

HAAAA!! so true! seriously! good thinking. how sure are you it's only external rust? if the rears are rusted it's usually subject to the law of diminishing returns. once you cut those off there's rust underneath that's much harder to properly treat/repair and continues to get worse: https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fi1235.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff427%2Fchrisb65%2FMiscellaneous%2F97impreza3_zpsf92f7d38.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.scoobynet.com%2Fscoobynet-general-1%2F986583-classic-impreza-and-rust.html&docid=Fy2gxyk7Kwy03M&tbnid=Hr0io_08PGz8TM%3A&w=1024&h=768&bih=839&biw=1164&ved=0ahUKEwin4ayb3OTOAhWCYiYKHcYKCckQMwgfKAMwAw&iact=mrc&uact=8 https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fi1235.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fff427%2Fchrisb65%2FMiscellaneous%2F97impreza3_zpsf92f7d38.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.scoobynet.com%2Fscoobynet-general-1%2F986583-classic-impreza-and-rust.html&docid=Fy2gxyk7Kwy03M&tbnid=Hr0io_08PGz8TM%3A&w=1024&h=768&bih=839&biw=1164&ved=0ahUKEwin4ayb3OTOAhWCYiYKHcYKCckQMwgfKAMwAw&iact=mrc&uact=8 where's those pictures of people's rear struts blowing the rusted mounts out into the cabin of the car? those are awesome.

what they said - www.car-part.com, JDM engines on ebay and the like. or just keep limping it along, replace the PCV valve and run thicker oil, maybe it'll consume a little less.

I sort of figured that out without even looking at it - that's why i recommended it in step 1 above, i was starting to think this diagnosis is questionable and we need some good description/information to go on. although specifically speaking it's not the "engine computer" that's the problem. the code readers are FREE, FREE, FREE at Advance Auto Parts, Autozone, NAPA, and many other national chains. you show up, ask them to read your code, and write down the number they give you and post it here. that would take less time than typing these two pages of threasd. you don't need a friend with one. *** Is the check engine light currently on?

completely ignore that link you posted - i'll describe later why. (in general i suggest you not go looking for the worst informaiton you can find and give it credibility and traction - or if you're like that please avoid WebMD) headgasket- yes it's an EJ25 in that car which can have headgasket issues. not all of them have it happen and it's a mild issue with little cause for concern. they start slowly leaking and take months and tens of thousands of miles to progressively and slowly get worse. you have months if not a year or two to plan your repair. there's very low risk of catastrophic failure that will strand you. no risk, no stranding....just another possible maintenance cost, plenty to make a great decision on and no reason to stay away from what is otherwise a great 200,000+ candidate. A. "how'd you do it?" tthere's nothing you can do to avoid or mitigate headgasket issues besides just proper maintenance. i.e."* change the coolant and add the coolant conditioner (if still required, which I think it is in 2010), and never let your battery terminals/grounds get dirty/corroded. which is unlikely for owners of such new cars anyway. people that say "i used this and this and never had issues" - totally anecdotal and meaningless - they wouldn't have had issues if they didn't do whatever it is they think they're magic in a bottle was. B. these engines routinely make 200,000 miles without issues. those aren't the ones hitting the internet air waves. they will need maintenance - timing belt at 105k, spark plugs, wires, filters - all that will add up to the cost of a headgasket repair, so it's not a big enough deal to always be a deal breaker even if the headgasket did need replaced. they generally leak slowly at first and give you months to plan a repair - so it's not a risk, though a small percentage of them do have failures that may strand you, but that's unlikely. Buying price varies wildly based on nearly unlimited factors. with KBB, autotrader, ebay, online searching and listings you can easily research actual list prices on vehicles and see what thousands of them are actually listed for. then the myriad variables take over on how much they'll bend on the car price. do some research and you'll easily get a reasonable range to work off and asess. if you're looking for very specific vehicles - really new, low mileage, supberb condition, hard to find comps' on - price flexibility usually suffers, but not impossible. just luck/timing. _____________________________________________ Now, onto that webpage - in general they're correct - some EJ25's have headgasket issues, the rest of their information is incomplete and rather unhelpful in painting an accurate picture. "Non-turbo 4 cylinder applications all have issues" - wrong. "oil and coolant mixing" - wrong again they never, ever fail that way. they do allude to this - they may exhibit that symptom if they're run into the ground, ignored, and run hot to oblivion - but that's true of every internal combustion engine ever made, not a failure mode of that headgasket. the way it's written is so ambiguous an unknowing reader like yourself is lead to think they might loose bearings if the needle moves when they sneeze. the 80k-120k mileage assocation - nope, try again. here's how it works - newer/lower mileage cars are seen less/have less visibility on forums, indepedents, friends garages - they do have fewer isues but more importantly, they're more likely to get repaired at a dealer, or without question and air time in more public displays (like this). higher mileage cars like 150k+ are more likely to just hit a junk yard, sold as-is on craigslist, or get fixed by a DIY guy and never get seen at a shop who wants what the car is worth to fix it, so that leaves that middle ground mileages around 100k-150k to be *blamed* for various failures because that's when they get the most air time or people scrambling around for independents or a better deal on their expensive repair for a low valued car. people make that assumption all the time for lots of different issues/parts/repairs - fuel pumps, wheel bearings, head gasket...it's an incorrect correlation - it just means "most people are driving 80k-150k cars" or "most people seeknig repairs at indepdents are driving 80k-150k cars", but it's simply a correltation, not a causation. i get that from a person but a shop shouldn't be that short sighted particularly if they're writing something for the masses with their name on it. you can prove me write by looking up any various headgasket log and seeing the mileages recorded. their year break downs of engines affected is not correct. if it's not right don't list it - just put a more generic statement "some EJ25's", "some Subaru 4 clinder engines since..." they also barely touch on the EJ25D and the differences there. they don't talk about differences between 00-04 and 05+ variants, and EJ22's (which are included in some of their year break downs). they started the business in 2004 - by that time the first EJ25's were 8 years old - with 12k annual average that puts them at 100k mileage - the least valuable EJ25's on the road when they opened who would be trying to avoid dealer prices and looking for these guys - would have...oh wow, look at that....100k on them. shocking. company wasn't around to see EJ25D's failing under warranty at 20k. no worries - that's not your engine, that one is the worst but a different variant from the newer EJ25's. that's just an illustration of the frequent perpetuated mileage allusion which happens all the time for lots of items. that said - maybe that was all transcribed by an unfamiliar editor spitting out content quickly - but in any event, it's a hyped up version of reality. "Non-turbo 4 cylinder applications all have issues" - um, no, that's not even close to true. EJ25's have 4 distinct failure symptoms and *none* of them are oil and coolant mixing. the 80k-120k mileage assocation is plain stupid - i wouldn't call it stupid except they're a shop and should know better than trying to fear monger some business and anxiety in customers. newer/lower mileage cars have fewer issues and are also more valuable and more likely to get repaired under warranty, more likely to get repaired at a dealer, or without question and air time in more public displays (like this). higher mileage cars like 200k are more likely to just hit a junk yard or get fixed by a DIY guy, so that leaves that middle ground mileages around 100k-150k to be *blamed* all the time for various failures. people make that assumption all the time for lots of different issues/parts/repairs - but it's simply a correltation, not a causation. people are too short sighted to see that but a shop shouldn't be, particularly if they're writing something for the masses with their name on it. shame on them. their year break downs of engines affected is not correct and apparently they're not familiar with EJ25D's or just chose to ignore that huge swath of subaru owners - which probably means they're new to the Subaru headgasket game that's been around for 20+ years not, probably also indicated by the 2014 post date - good grief they're behind the times. "Non-turbo 4 cylinder applications all have issues" - um, no, that's not even close to true. EJ25's have 4 distinct failure symptoms and *none* of them are oil and coolant mixing. the 80k-120k mileage assocation is plain stupid - i wouldn't call it stupid except they're a shop and should know better than trying to fear monger some business and anxiety in customers. newer/lower mileage cars have fewer issues and are also more valuable and more likely to get repaired under warranty, more likely to get repaired at a dealer, or without question and air time in more public displays (like this). higher mileage cars like 200k are more likely to just hit a junk yard or get fixed by a DIY guy, so that leaves that middle ground mileages around 100k-150k to be *blamed* all the time for various failures. people make that assumption all the time for lots of different issues/parts/repairs - but it's simply a correltation, not a causation. people are too short sighted to see that but a shop shouldn't be, particularly if they're writing something for the masses with their name on it. shame on them. their year break downs of engines affected is not correct and apparently they're not familiar with EJ25D's or just chose to ignore that huge swath of subaru owners - which probably means they're new to the Subaru headgasket game that's been around for 20+ years not, probably also indicated by the 2014 post date - good grief they're behind the times.

get an actual Subaru FSM - they're all over the internet and free. i suck at, and hate doing, windows (those two traits tend to go hand in hand), i usually open up both doors at the same time so i can go look at the routing, setting, and movement of the other operational window while i'm messing with the other. my dislike of wasting time on windows has also lead me to simply swap and entire door before - 4 bolts and a wiring harness and you're done in like 20 minutes.

seriously - i think that bolt was designed by an engineer from the northeast who moved to Japan and decided this would be his big middle finger and "!*(*%??@?%!!&%" to the rust belt.

if it's just like 1- 2 seconds i'd guess it's a serpentine pulley bearing failing. but it's a WAG without any more information, you're trying to make this really hard on us - remember we can't see, touch, smell, taste or hear the car! 1. does it ever do it while the car is running or only after you turn it off? 2. are you positive it's not doing it while running or might it be possible it's doing it but you can't hear it due to nominal car running noises? 3. how long does the noise last - the possibilities vary considerably if it's 2 seconds or 20. 4. does it do it very single time? 5. stand outside the car and move around while someone else starts/turns it off. does it come mostly from front, back, left, right, and pop the hood - what part of the engine if you can narrow it down that far.

why is it you don't want to source used panels or use those ones in the links above? there's your starting point, ask them, buy them lunch, invite them over, sell it.