idosubaru

2002 OBW H6 250,000 miles, has had a very light clunk at stop signs for awhile and I've never noticed anything loose. Just a very very light clunk and steering wheel moves just a tiny amount right when you let off the brake pedal. Today the front DS strut would move forward and backward when applying significant final torque to the wheel lugs. This is with car on ground in park. I assume it's the same cause for both these issues Top strut mount is bad? Or something on the bottom - ball joint or tie rods? I think the ball joint and tie rods are new and strut mount is original.

Pull engine and trans together through engine bay. I've done a bunch, even a couple hog 6 cylinders with auto trans Dropping would be annoying with crossmember but isn't impossible

Trans or front diff, or inner cv joint Inner joints usually have some vi brations or noises while accelerating up a hill with Steering turned to full lock. Turn left and right at a stop sign up an incline with steering turned all the way and punch the gas pedal - any noises? What is the transmission oil looking like? Has it ever been changed? MANUAL transmission so What happens as you push the gas pedal up a steep grade- where throttle and load increases but it's not actually accelerating? Nothing or noise or vibration. Front diff a usually whines like said Input shaft and main bearing issues - some of the better MT guys can comment on those but fluid condition is one question.

automatic/manual is inconsequential, it doesn't matter. you can swap auto and manual ECU's - doesn't matter. 1999 is an odd year with two different engine variants. one of those engines is not easily interchanged with yours. to clarify - do not get a 1999 impreza, 1999 forester, or 1999 Legacy with 2.2. 1999 Legacy or Outback with 2.5 is fine, just not 2.2. Any other 1995-1999 4 cylinder Subaru will be fine. 1996-1999's you'll need to also swap your exhaust manifold. you can also use EJ18 or earlier 90-94 vehicles as well....but they're mostly rusted away by now around these parts.

what he just said - the parking brake is completely separate and inside the rotor - you'd have to also remove the rotors to get it to move. if it's seized then the rotors will be hard to remove. i've broken them before bashing them off with a hammer - but this is in the rust belt where stuff like this happens all the time. so if you put the car in gear it wil just stall?

backwards doesn't matter - you can turn a Subaru motor "backwards" all day long - it doesn't "know" what forward and backward are - it's just a bunch of pistons moving "up and down", it doesn't care about direction mechanically speaking. that being said - yes you can totally turn the crank enough to slip teeth (not just backward but forward too). if it slipped teeth while turning backward, it would have done the same thing turning it forward (tigthening). i'm confused by what you mean "pins" - if you turned the engine "backward" - then the engine should just rotate. but what did you do to stop it from turning? what most people do is just stick a long stout screw driver or socket extension into the rear bellhousing access hole under the throttle body on the back of the engine. you can insert it into the flexplate there and prevent the engine from turning over that way.

super easy fix - i've done a handful of impacts/pull it out repairs - all with come alongs, winches, or trees. just pull it out. for a first timer just keep trying a couple different pulls/angles/etc - go light and increase how much you're pulling as you get comfortable seeing how it's progressing. the best to have on hand is a come-a-long like picture above or a cable winch. use tow straps/rope/chain wrapped around or 2x4's to help spread the load. the radiator cross members are really weak flimsy metal and easily bend - so they're usually easy to get back into shape. you can usually get it back into "close-enough" shape in less than an hour - like your fender/hood gaps wont' be perfect but everything will otherwise be close, square, and open/close. also - since the crossmembers are weak and flimsy - point loading it in one spot can sometimes bend/kink it right there - spread the load if you can/notice that happening. you can even use a tree/pole and some rope and put the car in reverse for a ghetto/free fix. i would just allocate an hour or two real quick and see how you progress. a lot of times with simple impacts like this you can even pull the hood out to roughly flat just straighten them enough to get close and latch and motor right along while you source a better condition hood. www.car-part.com for parts

i've had beck arnley boots and others breaking in 3 years or so as well, i've since switched to Subaru they seem to last much longer. i think it's this: 23222GA120 http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-23222GA120-GENUINE-OEM-BOOT-/381152395409 we have the complete parts manual for an XT (EA82) on subaruxt.com, excellent resource for stuff like this: http://www.subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=12803

good job knocking out the water pump. definitely worth a shot nearly every time. the water pump bolts are much smaller, lower torque, short (so as a percentage the depth of the hole is much greater increase) - so those are nearly a 100% success rate. the bigger higher torque timing bolts might be a different story but hopefully it works for him, definitely worth a shot as it doesn't really cost anything.

if it's TOD: 1. reseal the oil pump: orings and shaft seal 2. if that doesn't work replace the oil pump read this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136547-ea82-er27-ticking-tod-hydraulic-valve-lash-hla-noise-diagnose-and-repair/

order a Subaru OEM water pump gasket - the aftermarket flimsy cardboard ones are terrible. an OEM tstat is smart too. the DOHC and SOHC are identical in installation - on the DOHC just line up the two drivers side cams and two passengers side cams sprockets with each other (they have double hash marks, real obvious). other htan that one step - it's exactly the same process as a SOHC. all the timing pulleys, timing tensioners, water pump, oil pump are all the same exact parts and same process for installation. that said - just get a Subaru FSM - they're free and all over the place online. remove serpentine belts remove 22mm crank sprocket remove 10mm timing cover bolts remove 14 mm timing pulley and tensioner bolts remove 5 10mm water pump bolts, clean up old gasket install new water pump and pulleys/tensioner line up cams with their marks, line up crank sprocket mark - and install belt install everything else. ideally you reseal the oil pump and tigthen the backing plate screws while you're in there. i'd consider that more important than the water pump myself.

clean threads, try a longer bolt. those big EJ bolts aren't terribly forgiving of that method though, make sure you can torque it tight enough. drill and helicoil. a right angle drill is the best bet - some are low profile and fit in front of the engine.. i've rented one before. you can dry a right angle drill attachment for a drill as well. put the drill bit in a vice and wail it as fast as you can with a hammer to shear if off. while hard, drill bits are brittle and will shear with a fast enough blow. that said - wear goggles and protect windows, or have it fly into a towel (hopefully) when that end shears off it'll bounce off every floor, wall, door, and ceiling in your garage. gotta hit those bit bits pretty fast to shear off.

if you have no issues it's probably normal. it's an open rear differential right so the tire should be able to spin freely?

rebuilt just means the cost to repair was more than the value of the vehicle. (technically insurance companies have a more complicated algorithym like 75% of the value)> either way it means a new car incurs substantial/expensive damage. without asking or seeing records you'll never know what that means. or looking at it - finding the repairs and assessing the repair or engine/trans replacement. hail damage is just cosmetic. flood damage is much riskier. i've bought, rebuilt, salvage totaled vehicles before and had them recertified. i just turned 250,000 miles 1 week ago in one of my daily drivers. helps to track down what was wrong with them or identify the repairs. if it's done right they're not particularly scary, of all the "horror" stories i've heard people say - i've yet to see any problematic rebuilt titles. i'm sure it happens but I think the fear of the unknown and lack of experience rebuilding cars creates a fog around them. and hey - it is risky if you know nothign about the car and aren't competent enough to figure it out, assess it yourself.

check engine light? read the codes - are any pending? vacuum leaks as fairtax mentioned? idle control valve would be suspect if it's happening when you push the clutch in (presumably the throttle is likely closing at that time too)? they routinely stick and need cleaned out. remove and clean out or replace with a used one. it's rare but i've seen a few sensors cause issues without throwing a CEL. MAF and O2 come to mind, but i would guess any sensor could possibly do that?

there are tools, insurance, rent, taxes, licenses, utlitiies, accountants, lawyers, computers - owning a business is expensive. business plans easily incur thousands of dollars a month just to break even. also they're probably pulling the engine, and they have a right to do it that way. if you're tactful and conversant and have some respect you can probably talk to a mechanic and find one willing to try it in the vehicle and charge per hour - but you're still looking at a lot of hours and cost...it's not going to be "cheap" - it's still a big job. and are they going to resurface the heads - most places sub that out to somewhere else charging a couple hundred dollars (another business that has to make money) you're in the rust belt - maybe the exhaust and bolts are rusty and they see problem after problem working on it.

change the belt and pulleys now - a new belt still probably means old pulleys which are about as unreliable as an old belt. they're easy. i've done the belt only in less than an hour before...one cars with no rust. add an hour or two for pulleys and water pump or first timer if working methodical.

Newer belts are robust and can easily exceed the replacement intervals. Not a good risk for most situations but easily done if ignored. Also, Unless someone has physically driven every mile and keeps good rdcords, in the car it's replacement may not be known.

Is it binding? Is the transmission pan dented, even a little bit? The TCU data isnt available in the OBD port unless they have adequately sophisticated equipment. The secret handshake for flashing the code is convoluted, have you tried it? Look up directions.

I would guess ( and I'm not well versed in turbos) the failing turbo is causing the cam codes so they are just artifacts and symptoms of the real issue. I'd fix the smoking and turbo first then the cam codes will likely already be taken care of or address those next. How many miles on the timing belt timing tensioner and pulleys?

Repair the turbo probably needs rebuilt. Smoking turbo and exhaust smoke on a turbo engine is very bad. Might be simple or might mean you need a new block next time you try to run it. Not a good idea to limp turbos along like their nonturbo cousins.

There's a sliding door on the changer under the seat. Real inconvenient. If you can't see it pull out the seat and remove it to see. Only 4 bolts for the seat. Or,Get a 6 disc in dash unit and swap it out. Much simpler.

Drill tap insert done. I've never seen a need to overthink such a simple nearly 100% repeatable solution. I use Helicoils just because of availability that's what was easy. I'd gladly use threadsert too if it presented itself as an option.

You can google the differences those endings make. I think there's previous threads about it too. You just the baring sealed on both sides. But local at Napa if you're unsure. I think I've posetd a link to the onesvimve bought on Amazon before. There's also a Dayco 89007 pulley most stores have in stock you can use. They aren't listed as a replacement but work fine.

You could fill the bearings with new grease by removing the face seal or a needle fitting on a grease gun and prying up the face seal. But very very few people ever do that. The bearings simply loose grease over time. You're other issues are hard to follow but sounds like you're in the right direction.