idosubaru

I have a single port EJ22 but shipping kills it. Maybe if I get on the ball for another elk hunt this fall I'll bring it with me... lol www.car-part.com

pictures attached, i didn't see way to do it via PM.... i obviously have never cleaned them.

he said 15 minutes separating engine and trans, not pulling it entirely. well done, that thing almost vertical! i've pulled and installed the engine and trans together as a lump multiple times - even on EZ 6 cylinder automatic pigs. they basically come out like your picture - WAAAAAY up high and nearly vertical to get it all to clear that crossmember.

Very cool that worked out. And now you (and we) know a little bit more about how insurance works. I'll tell the story but there is a specific point that might help some older subaru owners too. Someone ran into my 1988 XT6 last year. As you know, a more worthless car than a sweet hatch - particularly in the rust belt where 90's Subaru's are frowned upon - they get dated so much quicker because the cars disappear and perception goes with it (particularly oddball XT's). I had the fortune that they were at fault, but I was just wanting my car fixed, no attorney, no other claims. I told the adjuster I had driven these for the past 20 years, had this one shipped from California to have a rust free car, done all the major maintenance things to make it a reliable daily driver and work car, custom differential, MWE axles, lift, new clutch, snow tires, fluids, belts, etc. And that it was much more valuable to me than to anyone else - I'd rather keep it and repair it and getting another XT up to this level would be quite a bit of effort. The damage wasn't terrible and I told him I'd be fixing it and rather keep it without salvage and re-title, reinspection - which I've done before but didn't want to here, it wasn't really needed. He added a bunch of stuff and quickly got to the totaling mark. Then he started asking me questions and....i forget the terms he used...but he added on all additional financial considerations that didn't effect the value that's assessed to declare it totaled. Like a rental car (though I never got one) - and some kind of other terms that somehow involved the body/paint/valuation or something but didn't go into the value they use for totaling for some reason - I didn't quite understand it. I just remember him pointing out and marking some things and saying - he could do this and that and it won't affect that first repair estimate that was just below the total value. The point is - he had some flexibility to stop the estimate before totaling it and add some additional fat on top to help an oddball old car that doesn't have any value - except to me.

Go to Subaru and hand them your wallet. There's no one selling them because there is no demand and it is pointless to replace a Subaru ECU with new/remanned. They never fail and that means quite a few things: 1. you're never going to need to replace it 2. most replacements are mis-diagnosis (hence the questions above in prior posts) 3. if you do need to replace it - it's an outlier and not going to happen again. you don't do meteorite protection procedures on your home - OMG like you could DIE!?!?!?!? the chances are so tiny it's pointless. same with an ECU - it's so benign and rare, it's not even on the radar screen of people that know these things well. 4. let's assume you did have an actual unicorn failed ECU. if something caused the failure - I wouldn't want that causative agent to then busticate the new $$$$$ ECU. I'd much rather it botch a cheap used one and then try and find the real cause of the problem. 5. since they never fail there's zero demand - meaning used ones are a dime a dozen - buy two if you're worried. But there's Subaru for the few percent of people that demand new - you're just going to have to pay for it.

Owners manual any help at all? It should mention what a flashing BRAKE light means. google may tell as well. I would read the owners manual at least and see if there's a default mechanical process for releasing the brake in case something goes wrong while you try to figure this out?

there are varying opinions because practically speaking it doesn't matter. the causation between N/A engine longevity and oil choice is extremely weak. if everything else is perfect (no overheating, frequent oil changes, no compromised oil, good maintenance) - oil choice is nearly benign. synthetic oil is great, more forgiving, use it unless you have a reason not too. conventional works great too. 240k on my current daily driver and, as it's always been, my secret has been whatever cheap oil and filter are on sale. I've had a high percentage of Subaru's use oil, otherwise I would use synthetic more often.

EJ18, EJ22, and EJ25 transmissions are interchangeable if not the same thing, if an Ej22 trans will work an EJ18 will work. the issue for you is that yours is a Phase II transmission so you need to use 99 - 2002 transmissions and possibly 03-04 will work too. www.car-part.com i don't think you can use 98 and earlier as they are Phase I and electronically different from 99+. if yours has the delayed engagement into drive issue that's specific to 99 only transmissions, there's an easy fix for that. Oh - and a screw on filter - so that means we're talking about a 1999 automatic transmission, you never stated what trans you're talking about.

suspension interchange is wonky and hard to keep track of - it's year, strut, spring, and tophat dependent. this thread is what i usually use, it looks like they will work but there is some confusing information regarding 02-03 rear springs, it says "93-01 are best" and implies some things about 02-03 springs later... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1303381 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18820009&postcount=7

He is taking the passengers side inner and outer cover. I still have a couple others, inner/outer drivers side and one more outer - passengers side maybe? You want whatever I have? $25 for whatever I can dig up. Cursory glance last night and all the other covers looked good - with the exception of one ear (the part that holds the metal threaded insert) had a crack in it but was still intact with the metal insert. I'll get pictures if you're interested.

they rarely fail, there's no demand so there's plenty of them and they're cheap over here. install a used one, new is quite a silly purchase on that part.

+1 doubt it significantly matters. getting a bead on prior history/maintenance would be a better indicator i think. get one from an impreza with EJ18 - reasonable chance it's seen less taxing use from the small engine?

It sounds like it's overheating - but you say it's not? Why do you suspect the gauge to be wrong? check simple stuff first - proper coolant level, burping, tstat, cap, etc. 1. radiator clogged 2. headgaskets Are there any bubbles in the radiator or overflow tank while idling, running, driving, overheating? i've never seen a failed Subaru EJ water pump - except one that's leaking through the weep hole.

EGADS BATMAN - $10,000! the PNW is nuts. you can also set it with self tapping sheet metal screws into the rubber ring or tack weld the pulley back square. that would be a temporary solution so you can drive it while you address a proper repair. or it's a permanent repair on an older vehicle. LOL

replace the crank pulley. they very rarely fail so a $35 used one is just as good as a new Subaru one. i'm actually really surprised it failed on such a new vehicle - i've seen a few 80's stuff fail and I don't even think i've seen a 90's+ one fail yet - probably one I'm forgetting. www.car-part.com the P0420 code is going to be a debacle unless you can ignore it. unless you're really lucky it's going to cost new catalytic converter/exhaust work $$$$ to "fix" it. ABS codes are really easy to read yourself - find the procedure online and do it. plug a self-enclosed pin into a certain slot on a wiring harness above the gas pedal and the light in the instrument cluster (ABS light) starts blikning the code for you. so if you can look for a plug and count a blinking light you can read the codes yourself, very simple. i'm not sure how the $800 loss works but if the crank pulley, P0420 code and stuff are going to be paid for at a dealer you're gonna get hosed worse than $800.

wow, way to finally figure it out. so it pulled towards the opposite side the leak was on? fluid pressure bleeding off so it was giving more assist to the other side, is that how it works?

tires. if you're sliding in snow - the tires are cheap, low tread, or old. Is it due for cleaning, regreasing the slides and replacing any that are questionable?

you've tried inside and outside handle? it's not the child safety lock? pop the interior panel off the door to get to the lock mechanism. they're very easy, takes just a couple minutes. the annoying part will be trying to find out and fix what's wrong with the linkages/lock/handle. they tend to be a convoluted set of metal rods, plastic bits and all sorts of bends and fittings that tend to not divulge what's wrong immediately. what i've done in tricky situations in particular is to remove both rear door panels and compare the good one to the bad one to identify the issue.

I hear you and many people work (particularly on this forum) that way and it's a good fit. But they may have the feeling that they could put $1,000 into it now....and another big hunk of change later.... headgaskets timing belt (pulleys, tensioner, etc) torque bind front diff and that is a very real possibility I can't fault someone for.

i've never seen it - i have to keep rereading the thread...is this about front or rear? is this about a 2004 or a 2005? or forester or outback?.....

+1, it's benign.

fairly common to use hot and cold, i've used the freezer many times on bearings. separating the hub from bearing and races getting stuck - it's not a fun job if you get a tricky one. sure if it all goes easy and cake...but in the rust belt how dependable is that? it's not something i'd let someone borrow my tools for because i know more often than not i'd just be doing it in the end.

some people are having ABS issues with aftermarket hubs/bearings in 2005+. i'd get name brand or Subaru.

Here is their new website: http://www.ramengines.com/page1.php I've been to RAM's facility, they have a test stand and can run an engine in their shop and it's been a few years but I think they can and have done some testing. Given the aircraft market they're appealing too it seems likely they would have done some testing.

look it up in www.car-part.com and see what all years interchange. look up a crank pulley on ebay and see what other years it lists. look it up on opposed forces. then you can click on what all years it cross references too. those aren't the complete story necessarily, but a starting point. often times a part isn't listed in those places as compatible or interchangeable even though it is. with a couple minutes of searching you'll know - but EJ crank pulleys are all very similar. i feel like 1990 - 2004 are all interchangeable but maybe I'm forgetting something. if it's actually loose you can zip self tapping sheet metal screws between the outer and inner ring to cinch the pulley back in place. it can be done for extended periods of time, though i don't recommend it, but it does work.