idosubaru

Towards front of vehicle: Engine bay - intake manifold - fuel lines are leaking. tighten up the clamps or replace. If you smell it towards the back of the vehicle then it's likely a rusty fuel filler pipe.

+1 if it's pressurizing that bad I'd be leary about putting much into that block either. It's either due to severe overheating or a very poor head gasket job or headgasket quality (do you know what brand is currently in it?) Consider a used engine: www.car-part.com 99 Forester or Impreza RS 00+ Forester, Impreza, Legacy, Outback 99-2001 EJ22 can also work if you get an EJ22 exhaust manifold - it's plug and play, very easy.

and yes there's hope...of course it could be ominous too....but there's still hope. whilte it's not good, people have overheated cars severely before without ruining the engine (i've done it once too).

1. refill and make sure it's burped - get all the air out of the system. any air in the system will make it not flow properly and overheat immediately - which yours is doing. 2. check for leaks - might be tough with the way everything spews on an overheat. 3. clogged radiator....not sure how to diagnose that....the only time i had a bad radiator i ran a hose in one side of the radiator and visiaully look at the flow out the other side....it was noticably stifled by flow. i wouldn't expect it to overheat so quickly unless it's just slammed clogged up.

It's still in gear but the shifter moved to neutral? check linkage agreed....

and as mentioned - make sure it's not something simple. Subaru also requires Subaru Coolant Conditioner be added tot hat engine - it's $2.50 a bottle from Subaru.

They probably didn't resurface the heads and may have used aftermarket headgaskets...both of those are a bad idea for this particular engine. So it might be worth saving, resurface the heads, and Install Subaru Turbo MLS headgaskets or Six Star and it's only $100 - $200 job so it's worth doing if you have the time. Find GD's thread on here about resurfacing the heads yourself, it's really easy. The 1999 Forester is a Phase II EJ25 and not as easily swapped to EJ22. The Ej22 swap Miles mentioned above is not possible with a 99 forester (yes for a 98 forester or 99 legacy/outback but not a 99 forester). It's not impossible but not the easy swap miles is talking about. While the timing stuff is off - get a Gates kit off amazon with new pulleys and tensioner they'r eonly $120. Or do it later if the head job goes well, the timing belt is actually really easy if you can do a headgasket.

+1 vacuum leak - spray carb cleaner all around the engine bay - takes less than 20 seconds - and it'll reveal itself real quick O2 sensor wont fix this except by shear luck, that would probably result in no difference at all.

2+ year old post - wonder what happened to lil sis?

Doesn't seem like any compelling difference between the two, I'd opt for the cheaper one as well. The warranty usually requires it be installed by a certified shop/mechanic. if that's the case, there may be no warranty for a user installed transmission anyway. Be careful about the cheapest one you find - it may be cheap for a specific reason.

you mean 95-99 era legacy/outback as everyone else is guessing? my 1996 LSi has wood trim, though not around vents i don't think. 00+ have woodtrim around vents.

Yes early but not impossible. 2012 impreza still gets the EJ25 or is that the FB25? EJ25's have headgasket oil leaks. They get worse very slowly over long periods of time, so if it's that you have a long time to decide what to do - many years/10's of thousands of miles. Be wary of dealer diagnose/suggestions. I'd follow up here with people who know that engine well before proceeding. Particularly if it is headgaskets.

Vibration at idle is classic aftermarket CV axle issue. Sounds like the axle was repalced with cheap aftermarket.

if that's the case i would wonder if your tank is internally rusted or compromised with debris?

No. zero and 100 degrees are both cold to an ICE. Can you find original HG subaru's in Texas? yes of course you can. can you find original headgasket Subarus in Canada - yes as well. Many people who "recently bought" a car don't have issues with it - that is the norm, not the exception. 1. not many miles on it - so you have almost zero experience so far 2. do you even know if the headgaskets are 100% verifiable original? many have already been replaced many moons ago - i've bought some that had the HG's replaced at 30,000 miles under warranty - these things were blowing well over a decade ago.

properly repaired that impreza engine should last a long time. if the headgaskets start leaking again - resurface the heads, install Six Star or Turbo headgaskets and call it good. the earlier DOHC in those late 90's EJ25 are the worst blocks subaru ever made in terms of longevity, no way i'd bother rebuilding those for the impreza.

I have that exact diff email my username @yahoo.com if you want to buy it.

General Altimax RT43's have some good reviews for being cheap - I've seen a few people buying them lately but not any real world experience yet as I installed a set last week. +1 Michellins are the one tire brand where you get a good product no matter which one you buy. Great company and product but they are pricey. Any other manufacturer generally has some good and some lesser or outright bad tires.

Let's back up: 1. How many miles/years have you owned this car? 2. are you saying the old fuel filter was dirty? *** How do you know ***? This is rather ominous because Subaru fuel filters "never" have issues and can last 200,000+ miles. I'm not saying I recommend it, just that fuel filter issues are rare. If you actually had a terribly dirty fuel filter - then I'd wonder if you have a rusty fuel tank that's clogging things up or if severe amounts of debris got into the fuel lines and compromised the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) or Injectors. I highly doubt that's the case - because Subaru's don't inherently have that issue - but your odd comment about a dirty filter is the staple catalyst here - so please describe exactly what you mean by "dirty filter" and how you know for certain it was dirty. 3. Why was the filter replaced? Often times people replace a fuel filter as a diagnosis......is that the case here? A key component to this is that if this problem started after some other work - meaning - it has ZERO issues - and then HAD issues. then you can be sure something went awry with the work that was done to it. *it's related to the fuel filter being replaced? this is an in-tank filter then or the under hood filter? (Subaru changed right around 03 or 04 from an under hood to an intank filter) * are you positive the lines are properly hooked up and not clogged?

those are all cylinder misfire codes, the key symptom (if this information is accurate) is all three of those are on the same side of the engine. *** Check for oil in the spark plug tubes. if the spark plug tube seals are leaking they'll compromise the ignition on that side. with the rigorous symptoms of starting and running you're having it sounds bad. 1. i would wonder if the timing chain tensioner is failing and artificially changing the timing of all the valves on that side. *are there any timing chain noises on start up, idle, or high RPMS? * how many miles? * is the engine otherwise meticulous and well kept or more of an unknown? the chain tensioners require oil supply, so if oil is compromised then tensioners could be affected. 2. fueling on-one-side issues are rare but not impossible - it would see you need to look into the fuel pressure regulator system and see if that can affect one side only. 3. i had one multiple cylinder misfire on an H6 a few years ago all on the same side. ended up needing multikple COP's for some reason. you could swap sides - put the three on the passengers side on the drivers and drivers on the passengers side - if the cylinder misfires "move" with the COP's then you know it's them.

XT6 suits me well and is my winter vehicle of choice, also has clutch type LSD and usually snow tires. though i prefer it, the differences may be nominal from my newer Subarus,. XT6 is worth a lot less so if i slide off these steep grade, snow packed, unmaintained mountain roads or someone slides into me (both of which have happened) i care less.

I assume you want the 3.6 and not the 3.0? They're not terribly common or cheap. The 3.0's can be had much easier/cheaper as they're older. Is that jdmenginedepot? check them out. www.car-part.com Have you driven one - they are typical Subaru and not super-aggressive, jumpy acceleration demons? surprised you're not going forced induction? how much lift is this baja getting!?

water pump failure is extremely rare. but given the level of work involved to replace it - yes replacement is wise. that it's been overheated and cooling system compromised i'd expect it's taken an above average beating too, if i were doing this i'd consider the timing chain tensioners depending on condition and intended use of the car. i tend to think long term/high mileage. particularly the chain tensioners if under the timing chain is very black with deposits, they require oil supply and have small passages. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/143745-how-to-quickly-remove-60-rustystuckstripping-timing-chain-cover-bolts/

FSM's for many Subaru's are available free online, i'd see if you can find a justy one? or google it?

doubt the additives will work, most people with a new car aren't looking to limp or band aid it a long for the short term. in some ways no - basically the same operation conceptually. in some ways yes - the timing chain components are more cumbersome than timing belts. outer metal cover, timing chain bits, and then the innner metal cover. lots of orings there too. you're not in the rust belt so that's a good thing - i only had 3 of the timing chain cover bolts come loose due to rust - the rest stripped and required creative means to exract. no big deal with one bolt but 50...if it takes 5 minutes to extract a rusty stripped fastener...that would be 4 hours just to remove the bolts. luckily i found a 1 minute or less method. you bought the car with existing headgaket issues....probably for a good price like the EG33/SVX. as you know - shopping the low end of the market will have more issues. . finding cheap cars is easy...finding cheap cars and knowing for certain why they're cheap is another thing. i don't mind buying blown motors as long as the price reflects it. i looked at a very inexpensive H6 for a friend this summer - was slowly putting out bubbles in overflow after 20 minutes of driving. it was cheap for a reason. seller said it was dirty, hadn't bee cleaned and it needed a power steering line replaced that was leaking, and he'd give it to me cheap to avoid all the hassle preparing it to sell....the real reason it was cheap was the headgaskets. it didnt' overheat when i drove it, but i bet it had on him before. i've also got an H6 at my house with failing HG's to repair this fall. good luck!