idosubaru

Is it the HLA's ticking? that's benign. never really heard them tick only at higher RPM's....but maybe? engine history? lower end bearings are more likely if the thing was previously overheated/head gaskets replaced.

cool!

woah crack larry. sorry to hear that.

that's the problem.

if the TOD returns - which it often does - a new oil pump usually cures it.

seal probably was mis-installed at some point. you're right - it's an EJ22, i was thinking it was an OBW. fans not coming on, air in system, low on coolant are simple overheat causes.

remove timing belt - remove cam pulley - replace cam seal. those cam pulley bolts are a bear - have a rubber strap wrench handy for holding the cam wheel. if it's an automatic then it has the EJ25 - those are notorious for headgasket issues and the classic symptom for 96-99 EJ25's like yours is the heater quits working when it first starts to overheat. hopefully it's just low on coolant, needs burped, or the heater core is clogged (just pull the heater core hoses and flush it out), but most likely is headgasket. these engines are sneaky - they can go months between overheating episodes before they eventually get worse. that's why so many people have headgasket issues a couple weeks/months after buying one - it already had the symptoms/signs and someone dumped it ASAP. if you have overheating and recently bought an EJ25....there's a good chance you bought it with existing issues. nice try connecting those dots but it's not the water pump. that brings up a good point though - if significant oil got on the timing belt you'll want to replace it immediately - they will break within a matter of months if they get saturated with oil, i've seen it happen before on brand new timing belts.

a couple places it happens: fluid is coagulating behind the piston caliper dust boots. up here the rear lines that go over top the gas tank will start a very slow leak at first and you can't see it because it's just collecting/disipating on top the gas tank. when it first starts to leak it's not so much a hole as it is soaking through, weaving it's way around layers of scaled rust before it actually exits the line - it's sort of between a leak and no leak an may not leak unless it's under significant pressure - aka vacccum assisted brake booster, or while it doesn't seem likely - temperature/use dependent? the master cylinders can leak between the master and the fire wall. i've seen this on a 2003 OBW, but the fluid leak was obvious as it was wet. they have discs all the way around.

SWEET! Good job. that's an excellent price, did that include the ujoints or was that just labor?

no, replace it with used ones, looking for performance from a MAF is a dead end street. if you're concerned enough to even think about it - you're not going to like the results. tons of us on here have them - i'll send you 1 for $20. www.car-part.com

local chains with online discount codes, order online, pick up at local store. i routinely get 30 and 40% off this way and ordering from online places like rockauto is no longer necessary. subarugenuineparts.com subaruparts4you liberty subaru tacoma subaru there's a bunch of subaru dealers - they're all generally 20% under local dealer prices but you gotta pay shipping. rockauto for aftermarket

You just unthread it from the exhaust and thread the new on in. But they are generally very tight to remove due to heat cycling, rust, etc.

it doesn't really matter - either way it's the same cost/repair/job and you should replace all the seals as once not just one seal - timing belt has to be removed to replace the seal that's leaking. 1.centrally located leak - it's the crank seal. this means the oil pump needs resealed 2. if it's on the drivers side or passengers side then one of the cam seals is leaking. in a sense it doesn't matter because you should replace all of it: crank seal, cam seals, cam cap orings, reseal the oil pump (sealant and oring and tighten backing plate screws). it would be silly to pay $400 to replace one seal and not the others while you're in there. $7 now or $400 again later....take your pick. A. labor to get to ANY of the possible leaks is like $400 B. labor to replace the $7 is negligible, very easy. does that make sense - so if you only replace one seal and another starts leaknig next year - you gotta go through A again and another $400... also get a $100 Gates kit off amazon for all new timing belt and pulleys. do that and you've got a great 100,000 mile vehicle.

i also already mentioned a cheaper, more reliable, and better repair: install an EJ22 engine instead. 1995 automatic from legacy or impreza swaps right in, super easy. if you get the exhaust manifold too - a 1996-1998 with EGR will also work. $400 EJ22 - sell the EJ25 for $400 and the engine is free....you can find EJ22's for cheaper than that as well. pay $350 - $500 to install and it's cheaper than a headgasket job, cheaper to maintain, more reliable...win-win situation particularly for someone who can't afford to fix their car right now.

the sealants in a bottle are magic crap shoots, not really worth it. better off finding a way to fix the car properly or not use it. remove the tstat...though you need the outer ring of it to hold the tstat gasket in place. and you can get a LEVR radiator cap to bleed off the exhaust gases in the coolant. that will keep you going depending how bad it is. you may even be able to leave the LEVR cap valve open so the exhaust gas can push into the overflow tank. if you open it while hot do it veeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrry slowly as the hot gases will explode into the overflow tank and blow the top off if you open it quickly. but if you do it slowly you're then able to open the system while hot, add coolant and start driving again - that would at least render the vehicle useable. another forum member used brake fluid instead of antifreeze, he claimed it had better properties and i think he drove it for the better part of a year. not saying i recommend it....but he did and i'd probably try that long shot cracksmoking idea before the magic bottles of harry potter juice.

That points to headgasket confirmation. That is a classic EJ25 DOHC head gasket indicator. You can search the many other threads/people with the same symptoms. These engines routinely do what yours is doing, folks that have done lots of EJ25's are thinking "yep, just like the rest of them, seen that 100 times": 1. initially they go long periods of time between overheats when they first start - very common. frequency increases over time as the breech gets worse. 2. not long after starting to run hot you loose cabin heat - almost all of them do that, just most people don't notice because the heat isn't on or they shut the car off quickly

nice feedback on that gel! i'll look into that!

peanut butter yes. the only drawback is they can lick it off and not trigger the trap and lick it off the center of glue traps without touching the glue. if that happens, set the glue traps high or in a way they can't sit horizontally next to it and lean over without stepping on it, if it's up high they'll have to crawl up on it. i just did this last week actually. they were cleaning off the center of the glue trap so i put it up on a rock - got him the next day. or maybe even getting rat traps would work - the center being too far away for them to lick? they can also access the car remotely - are there places close to where you're parking that have mice? they can get into the habit of accessing the car for food (if you eat in it or have kids that drop food/crumbs everwhere) or for nesting material. if you're parking close to a barn, porch, nearly anywhere that affords mice a place to reside....set traps there as well. maybe even try parking elsewhere to disrupt their habit of accessing the vehicle.

used tires - craigslist, call around to shops - there are lots around here that sell used tires a few of which advertise on craigslist. used takes a lot of time to find a good deal, prices are absurd. i saw a set of Blizzacks today for $250 with 4/32" tread....that's terrible. $100 to mount and balance and you're at $350 for crap tires which already have all the snow tread gone, barely over the legal minimum in a state that has yearly inspections. unbelievable, but that's common with used tires too.

+1 you mean all 4? for all 4, yes sounds good, i would have bought those too. just for 4 wheels i'd guess $200 - $300....less in subaru vacant areas and more in subaru rich areas. you got tires with them, so add that. around here used tires go for crazy prices sometimes. i think people tight on cash would rather save $50 over buying new even if they loose lots of years/tread.

I've bought a few sets, including a set just a week or two ago delivered. I've never had problems, but I'm sure it's wouldn't be fun to deal with if needed. I don't think I'll ever do it again. Small savings, small hassle, the possibility of dealing with a return, and I might as well support mechanic next to where I work - great guy who inspects my cars. But if you can get a good balance price, have no local leanings, and aren't terribly concenred with the odd warranty scenario, then yeah why not?

headgasket do you realize that overheating the engine that much is devastating to the internal bearings and oil supply? if you're running it that much all the way into the hot and until the car shuts off - you're seriously destroying the engine. it might not even be worth replacing at this point. install a used 1995 EJ22 from an automatic legacy/impreza and motor on for another 100,000 miles without issue. then sell the EJ25 for a couple hundred dollars

sounds like it would be really easy to fix, post an actual picture of the damage and we can advise. i've rebuilt a few Subarus, including a few times from one the same generation as yours. "a stripped bolt hole" doesn't give me enough to go on.

are you trying to replace the boot without removing the piston and seal? your thread says "with" but i think you may mean "without"? i've only ever done both - the piston seal and the dust boot. but since the piston boot is the last step can't one just do the piston boot only?

the dual piston calipers won't fit under 15" steel wheels. plenty of mid to late 90's legacy and outbacks (GT, LSi, OBW, SUS) got 15" aluminum wheels with larger dual piston calipers just like the RS and those aluminum rims will fit.