idosubaru

give the fuel pump 12 volts directly and run the hose into a bucket?

i've gotten quite a few totaleld subaru's back on the road without much work, looks like that one could at least be put back on the road for a short term daily driver at the least.... www.car-part.com

Nah, there are no "expected" or common failures of the 4EAT, but it obviously happens. 300k is approaching territory with few data points and those are assuming it's the original trans. The Duty C job isn't that hard to do in the vehicle - probably worth repairing if you have the time/resolve.

When done as I said - the bearings feel 100% like new. You can google it too and find some youtube videos, etc. I tried to find some links but internet is cracking out.

Don't even need to replace the bearings. The bearings aren't the issue - it's the lack of grease. You can regrease the existing bearings. on supple face seals you can gently lift about 180 degrees of the seal, regrease the bearings with a needle insert for your grease gun, and reinstall the face seals. Don't overfill them - the grease expands when heated and will either seep out the edges of the face seal or displace the face seal. I've looked into replacing the bearings and also disassembled a few....but the regrease is so cheap, easy, effective, that it's been rather pointless for me to replace bearings. I'd probably look into it more if it was on interference engines and the Gates timing kits weren't so cheap on amazon. On the 80's stuff the face seals are brittle and the rubber coating is prone to cracking - pry carefully and gently on face seals. I've tried to source new face seals - that would be awesome if i could just get new face seals - pry off the old and install new. but haven't found any. Otherwise - yes replacing the bearings is super easy just like any other pulley bearing. Good quality japanese bearings can be pricey so it'll add up quick.

yep, fairly common in rust areas. gotta weld in another clean piece of metal. as mentioned it'll be multiple layers going different directions/coming together so keep that in mind as you progress. search "dogleg" as part of your google search string to come up with some others attacking this issue - i've got one or two to do as well. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/48177-dogleg-welding-plastic-trim.html

another option, they all ship now: www.car-part.com

use complete 96 EJ22 intake manifold with wiring harness.

yes - intake matches the heads. it should run fine if you're not super amped about peformance, steep grades and towing. personality preference really - there's people driving old school 80's Subaru's with 80 hp and folks on newer car forums complaining about 180hp....

what's the history of repair/maintenance on the axles and transmission? if the axles are aftermarket then that is a likely starting point to look into. at first it sounds like: 1. axles - specifically the front inner DOJ joint or 2. front differential change the differential fluid and look for chunks or silver in the gear oil. are the axles original? ever been rebooted? transmission fluid ever been changed? differential fluid ever been changed?

sounds low on coolant. simple stuff that takes a few seconds: 1. check radiator - is it low on coolant? 2. when it starts to run hot - are the fans coming on? 3. any leaks? 4. any bubbles in the overflow tank while idling? after that, work and parts: 1. radiator cap - have it tested or replace with Subaru. 2. thermostat - you can test it by boiling it or make sure it's a Subaru tstat or swap with your other Subaru to test 3. radiator - only bad one i had i pulled and ran a hose through it and compared it to a radiator in my garage - the one bad radiator i had would just trickle out the other side. i tried hitting it with a temp gun but the readings were so all over the place it wasn't consistent enough to tell anything. 4. radiator where the radiator cap seals - if they're corroded/deteriorated bad enough the cap won't seal - but that's very rare i believe 5. if all that checks out...headgaskets?

this:

it's fun to speculate no doubt, too bad we can't do it while watching duck dynasty with a bourbon and coke. but ambient temps are rather benign in terms of combustion and internals of an ICE. as an example, thousands of rebuilt/remanufactured engines or engines with newly installed headgaskets will be installed this winter in places -30 and below. thousands are routinely assembled in warm shop and driven out the door without issue every winter.

pic of the circlip i was referring to in this thread, post #48 I think: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/110957-question-about-gearing-370vs390vs411vs444/page-2

on a manual transmission you've gotten the axles to pop out of the center diff? some are held in place by a circlip - the kind requiring like snap ring pliers. i thought it was all manual transmissions...maybe it's only certain ones? automatics have the spring clips that just pop in and out.

why can't you knock the roll pin out? that's the easy way. doing what you're saying...if it's even possible...would take many hours, days for a new person and requires disassembling the transmission: remove the entire transmission remove the rear tail section of the transmission from the main case - about 2 dozen bolts separate the rear and front sections of the transmission split the transmission case halves....which will be really fun since you're leaving an axle still attached....and try to get access to the circlips inside the front diff that hold the stubby shafts in place - i doubt it's possible but i've certainly never tried. how you go about pulling the case half with the axle passing through it and still attached to the differential and remove the circlip i'm not sure - but you might be able to video tape it and charge a $1 per view. an alternative method might be too: 1. source a case from a used transmission - a core with blown guts, they'd be cheap 2. go at the front bellhousing of the trans with reckless enraged fury and create a huge hole through it so you can remove the circlip 3. transplant all your guts into the trans case from step #1

I think we need to clarify two discussions here - one is replacement of the tailshaft/4WD components and the other is testing. I think those two conversations are getting mixed up. Regarding testing: 1. when the FWD light "used to come on" - would it actually be in FWD? 2. we need to determine if the FWD light doesn't come on - is that what happens when the Duty C is not working right or is that something else? I think if the Duty C isn't working - the FWD light won't come on...but it's been awhile so i'm uncertain... Regarding replacement: If you're swapping the rear transfer clutches then final drive ratio of the trans doesn't matter - just swap the rear extension housing and Duty C solenoid. Once you pull the tail shaft back you'll have access to disconnect the Duty C solenoid for replacement - i think that's what he was talking about - replacing it - not testing it.

that deer pic does look odd! perspective and all. i've never seen a wheel bearing be fine and then catastrophically fail without warning....they get louder and louder over a relatively long period of time. i'd leave those at home too. how often do Subaru axles fail on non-lifted rigs? they're rather robust and i used to run them for 50,000 miles with broken boots and clicking and never had an OEM Subaru axle fail. i wouldn't take axles...guess i might if i were doing something harsher.

Just in front of the brake master cylinder is the EGR valve on the intake manifold if you want to pop the hood and look for it. It's right here: http://www.porcupine73.com/pics/sensors/egr96-1.jpg But if there's no CEL and the CEL bulb is functioning properly then we can guess he's got an EGR equipped EJ22.

Yes, that's what subarus lists for that engine: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_24/engine/cylinder_head/illustration_1/ That's the gasket I would use though truthfully EJ22 headgasket failure is rare enough that there's a lot smaller sample size of experience for them. No - cold temps would not effect the gasket - or wouldn't effect a properly functioning gasket I should say. Temperatures wouldn't be the root cause. A 50 degree temperature change is mild for an engine, they see a 100+ degree temperature change every time they are started from ambient temperature to the coolant temperature and internal combustion temps.

thanks for posting, that sounds nearly the same. what year/model subaru was that out of?

Tricky one. I think previous comment about strut is a good place to start. Grab it and shake it or pry against it - if uncertain compare it to the other side. Look for a leaking cylinder - wetness around the strut rod seal. The free test if they're interchangeable would be to swap struts - left to right and right to left - and see if the sound moves with it. But that's labor/time. Front axles routinely make sound under load/while turning. So at first it smells of axle issues. But there's two clear suggestions it's not the axle - Subaru rear axle failure is nearly unheard of - most 1980's Subaru rear axles are still fine....minus boots aging. And you can tell which side it's on - the axle would be harder to delineate which side...you'd be uncertain i would think which side it's on.

HA HA!!! that car sounds like it's in pretty bad shape if something is always failing/going wrong. it is possible to run an EA82 reliably. my list is: alternator, timing gear, fusible links, crank pulley those are leave you stranded items so good to carry. fuel pump is right up there too and i've taken them on ocassion problem is they stink or the used ones are often bad anyway. i had a pile of used ones i had kept and most were bad when i tested them a couple years ago. i had a couple distributor failures so i carry those - but those were also all vehicles that sat for a long period of time, never seen one die while using it.

It's basically not possible with automatic transmissions is what i think the final conclusion is. Oddly I say that and I'm nearly positive I used to have a 1998 Impreza OBS automatic without EGR - I know for a fact the engine was non-EGR as i'm running it in a current vehicle. I swapped all electronics except the body side wiring harness to NON-EGR components and I get a check engine light: NON EGR intake manifold, wiring, sensors NON EGR ECU And it still has EGR related check engine lights I cut the EGR related wires in case they were "identifier" pins somehow - no change at all - car ran fine, but still CEL.

2000 is the first body style that had cabin filters, though not all of them had it. In some of them the space is there, just need the filter - that varies by year/model.