idosubaru

I'd get an outback and tow a trailer with it. As a stand alone Subaru's are weak. I've driven cross country hunting trips, i do community clinics helping people with cars - hauling all my air compressor stuff and tools....subarus are limited in space. truck or trailer is ideal. i would think you'd severely cramp your style if you're doing this all the time. but with a trailer and a truck as back up - that would be awesome. i have a truck but also dislike driving it unless i have too. it's capacity is simply greater but if i don't need that capacity i enjoy not having to use it.

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+1 easier to just get a used transmission and swap it. it's rather intensive to do what you're asking. in general though - your 99 is a Phase II transmission and older ones (like SVX and 95-97) are Phase I transmissions. not sure how compatible the front diffs are. if you're still interested in swapping what you want to do is use Subarus opposedforces website to check part numbers of your vehicle and the vehicle you're looking at. see what parts of the ring and pinion share part numbers (if any). your 99 impreza is probably a 3.9 final drive ratio. if you swap the matching rear diff it doesn't matter what front diff you use. you can use any outback/legacy front diff. SVX's are the wrong front drive ratio. you don't want to use hose.

00-04 coolant leaks are common and they can leak oil too 05+ are more often oil leaks but either can do both.

Yes - you got it! the overflow tanks are rather benign - it does not matter how big or small they are nor any other function, they simply hold some reserve. you could make the reservoir a 10 gallon tank if you wanted too....run your windshield washer lines to it and fill them up with coolant and just hit the windshield washer pump to refill. LOL!!!! * Good news: these particular gaskets on this particular engine very very rarely "blow" in the traditional sense - like oil/coolant mixing, puking stuff everywhere, white smoke out the exhaust, etc. Factory OEM HG's almost never do that. So the chance of catastrophic break down is almost negligible if you pay attention to the car and are properly equipped/inspecting it. The original OEM headgaskets typically can be driven easily many 10's of thousands of miles while seeping - just keep them full of coolant and you're golden for a long time. particularly 00-04 models - they get worse at the slowest rate of them all. If they are the original OEM headgaskets from the factory then you likely have a long time if you keep the level full. Once the heads have been replaced they tend to have a wider margin of symptoms and rates of failure....but so far it sounds like you're fairly normal, maybe a bit faster than normal. But it doesn't sound like the HG's have ever been replaced before? The radiator can't get low - that's the real issue. Again the tank is benign, the radiator is the key. When it starts loosing coolant fast enough that the radiator gets low while driving, then you'll need to manually fill the radiator as it won't draw in coolant from the reservoir actively. Normally it takes a long time to progress to that though, not just a couple thousand miles.

+1 Ace, Lowes, Home Depot will have large selections of bolts as well. put a wrench on it and most likely: 14mm head size will be M10x1.25 threads 12mm head size will be M8x1.25 threads 10mm head size will be M6x1.00 threads it should be the 10mm or 12mm bolt head size. the store bought bolts in the thread size you need will often have different sized heads - but that doesn't matter at all, as long as there's clearance to fit if it's a little longer. i'd get high grade bolts to resist elements.

good job, glass is available everywhere, just don't use tempered/safety glass it doesn't have the inherent straightness. they always have high and low spots, after doing a few yourself you'll see why it's very wise to resurface these heads which are prone to fail anyway.

generally speaking remove as few smaller bolts like ABS sensor bolts as possible. with rust - those things can easily shear off. don't go there unless you have to. it's gonna be really simple....either you have enough room to perform it or you don't and you remove one extra bolt to give you more room. rust tips: 1. use 6 point socket only 2. have penetrant available 3. alternate loose/tigthen movements a few degrees if tight to help work it out 4. give bolts a rest if they're tight. loosen....go do something else....loosen, go do something else....work it back and forth....go do something else. that time gives the metal a chance to cool down. i pull rusty fasteners all the time and they can be hot enough to burn you when they come out. scorching from all the resistance. that heat also degrades the metal and makes them prone to shearing.

You haven't told us enough to answer: ***** How badly is it leaking? One drip per 10,000 miles or is it puking a gallon of coolant every 10 feet? if you already put two bottles in - i highly doubt repeating the procedure would help any more. it's only $25 or less to try, so have at it if you want.

make sure it's not a leak and just loosing coolant...but does sound like HG. no valve job. 1. resurface the heads (easily done yourself - there's a thread about it here - unbelievably simple) 2. install Subaru turbo headgaskets or Six Start

+1 verify where the noise is coming from first. mechanics stethoscopes are ideal for this. your description does seem to suggest the A/C but confirmation is good. yes you can run it without the a/c compressor being driven, no big deal. if you live in humid areas though the defrost won't dehumidify the air and it makes it hard to clear the windshield if it's fogging up. if that's a common issue, take note. people have replaced just the bearings on the a/c compressor clutch - that would be ideal - remove clutch and tap in some new bearings and done. really easy. don't let A/C scare you, it's actually very simple and easy to get right. worst case install another compressor, install new orings on the lines that bolt to the compressor and refill the system with two cans of refrigerant - done. no vacuum needed. easy, quick, cheap, and Subaru a/c systems are so robust this is cake.

yes - all 1995 - 1999 legacy/outback front axles are the same regardless of transmission, FWD, auto, manual, engine, etc.

what might be smart is to do it like they do windshields/glass - get a long thin metal line (piano string kind of thing, guitar string, bailing twine, etc) - and run that through and then just work it back and forth like a saw cutting your way around the sealant.

i pretty much think it's always going to go quick since i've done them a few times before...and it's always more effort than i think. i'm pretty sure they handed a caulk gun to an ADHD 4 year old and lock them in the trunk for 4 hours, and paid them 15 cents.

they are sealed in with a thick, nasty black sealant. you essentially have to cut them out. pulling on them always breaks them, done it a ton of times so proceed carefully. if it's not coming out then that black sealant is in the way. *** and ther'es always the possibility/probabilty that there's still one more bolt...and then still one more bolt...and then.... you are wise to proceed cautiously and ask, they break often.

i toss it around at any time. it's one simple wire and signal. signals get turned on/off all day long for Duty Solenoids and when the car is started, stopped, drive, Park....that signal is bouncing around/shutting on/off. not a big deal.

they are entirely beastly and make LOUD creaking noises when they break free. be prepared for them to sound like something letting loose - it'll shock you the first time you hear it.

The switch doesn't matter at all, run it. I've done a bunch. You'll feel binding if you're "locked" on dry pavement. Binding is bad - turn it OFF if you have binding.

that's it - that needs installed and the radiator cleaned out/bypasses if you're having 1991 AT issues.

we need some concrete information: 1. what codes or pending codes does an OBDII scanner give? (Advance Auto, Autozone and many more read them for free) 2. is the Check engine light on? 3. is the AT light still flashing at start up? 4. have you checked the timing marks? 5. what year EJ22 is this?

correct - line up the marks and you're done, it is strictly bolt head orientation only that matters. no other factors involved. it'll look really obvious how it works when you see the cambered bolt - or look it up online. good job - sometimes that 32mm is a beast to get off. i broken 3 1/2" ratchets/breaker bars before finally getting a 3/4" set and a 1,000 ft-lb air gun just for axle nuts.

like we all said - probably low on refrigerant. which means it had a leak. leaks are usually the orings on the compressor. replace those if you need to attempt a fix.

you could compare 91 and 94 TCU pinouts via FSM's to see how close they are.

91's have a common problem with an easy fix of adding on a special filter or hose or something. are you sure you don't have that common 91 automatic legacy only issue?

in hindsight - my painting quotes are probably low - it'll probably be more like $400 to paint the bumper, you can probably google subaru bumper paint costs.